fastg

But until you strap in how do you adjust them? I find it a 2 person job. With the belts really snugged down it's changes your view. Graham

I downloaded the drawings from the Rotrex site and built a cardboard mockup. The SV size frame really pinches down towards the front of the engine. With the steering shaft and the alternator it was just not possible. The exhaust side is just as tight, maybe room for a dry sump pump but that is about it. I think there is a UK company TTS that does a setup that uses a jack shaft that puts the Rotrex behind the engine, but it's complex and expensive. I have seen some S2000 setups were the Rotrex is in front of the engine pointing back towards the crank. There are no production K series RWD setups so support is non existent, you have to use the FWD parts. I could build a custom setup, but with modern ECU's and fully electronic wastegates I am not sure of the return. The setup I showed in my pictures is less than $1k, so it's tough to beat the price. I have heard some issues with Rotrex reliability, maybe that over blown. https://www.tts-performance.co.uk/product-page/honda-civic-type-r-fn2-shaft-drive-kit-c30-94 Graham

There is a ton of room above the driver footwell for an air/water intercooler. It's much simpler to run water pipes up into the nose than it is to run inlet pipes. Supercharging would me nice but there is just not the room. Graham

This is not my setup, but it does make me think, it's for a friends FWD Honda kit. It only takes me 10 minutes to get my exhaust manifold off so lets see if it fits. I have always had a long term plan to move to a turbo setup when I have the most NA hp I can practically achieve. I am thinking, my Hondata can do boost by gear, maybe a nice low boost setup, maybe 6-8 pounds boost rolling in for the taller gears. Graham

Or you can have a angled mount. Graham

In a six point harness with a Hans Device, reaching the passenger side mirror is not going to happen:) Graham

CBuff, correct that top bolt loosens and the mirror just spins around. It also make it a two handed job to set them. Graham

I use the Spa mirrors on my Locost. They look good and give a good vibration free image. The only thing I dislike is the adjustment at the mirror end, the base is good. You get them adjusted everything is good, but it you knock or move them, say getting into the car or putting the cover on, they turn into a wet noodle. There is no stiction on the adjustment, if you move them your getting the wrench out to reset them. Graham

Wow, that is a staggering amount of crap, good job that will save you from problems down the road. Graham

When picking a ECU the first question should be what can I get tuned locally. Most of you guys are running Ford engines, so just about any ECU will work and I am sure you can get a harness. But that is not your problem, you have what you have. Unless you are on a spec class race series I have never played with cam timing, so dismiss that. You have a working map so use that ignition timing, You just need a injection tune, you have a base tune and you can data log. There are some good phone apps that will measure performance with very good accuracy, you might need to add an external GPS sensor to get the best results, I use the Garmin GLO. This will allow you to match performance to the data log. This is time consuming and can be scary/fun because you will need it do full gear pulls on the street. The 1:1 ration gear is the best, 4th on a 5 speed and 5th on a 6 speed is the norm, you can use a lower gear if the speeds are getting to high, just use the same gear all the time. You will need a nice quite road:) With a little effort you will get it running well. Graham

What size are the throttle bodies? Planning the winter upgrades and itb's are an option. Graham

I can find nothing related to race car rules restricting there use. Pegasus Racing installation instructions recommend a Oetiker clamp of pressure applications. Installation Tips: Use Oetiker Clamps to secure the hose in place for pressurized applications. For maximum security, use 2 Oetiker clamps on each hose end. Rotate one clamp so the ears are clocked 90 degrees to the ears on the second clamp.

I do have a few push lock fitting on my car, there are quick and less bulky than AN fitting, but I always add an Oetiker clamp for extra security. I almost never use hose clamps, I think the only one I have are the thumb screw type on the air filter pipe. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=oetiker+clamps&hvadid=616863384942&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9007733&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11396396744207248546&hvtargid=kwd-2251557402&hydadcr=24661_13611822&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_hqa0982s3_e for any hoses that need to be removable, radiator hose for example, I use spring clamps. https://www.amazon.com/6mm-20mm-Pipe-Automotive-Line-Silicone-Fasteners-Assortment/dp/B09WTSRTCB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=1ES0Y5GH31W2M&keywords=hose+spring+clamps&qid=1699454525&sprefix=hose+spring+clamps%2Caps%2C63&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 Graham

I agree that there is some option on engine placement, but the original post stated 7”-8”! I don't think there is that much room for adjustment. I might be wrong. Graham

I noticed the AFR display was not working, stuck at 14.7. So I checked the O2 sensor. Common data shows the heater element should run about 10-40 Ohms, mine is 1.5 Ohm. Order new sensor genuine Delco $200 shipped, well that also reads 1.5 Ohm! So start checking the engine harness. The heater element shows 12v but the ground wire shows -2.5v, now that is really strange. Just about to start ripping onto the harness, but luckily I decided to see if I could use the Hondata software to monitor the actual data from the O2 sensor. I could see no real time data, I would have expected a MIL code. OK lets check the closed loop configuration, WTF the wideband it set to an external sensor, Grrrrrr. The Dyno operator had switched to an external Dynojet sensor because he was concerned the Hondata values were incorrect. The Hondata values were good but he forgot to switch it back. He has found me a lot of HP and totally transformed the overall performance so I cannot be too upset. At least I have a spare sensor now:) Graham

Every week Croc produces I know he puts a lot of effort into, but it has helped many people. Graham

I use Race Chrono, love it for $19. Using a ODBII module and a Garman Bluetooth GPS sensor greatly increases the available information and accuracy. Graham

I have a friend that is heavily into the Merkur XR4TI scene, that stock manual trans is a T9, I lot of owners swap to the T5. Maybe there are some T9's hanging around, I will see what I can find out. Graham

I attended the Grass Roots Motorsport Ultimate Track Challenge, held as part of an SCCA event to NCM. It's was the SCCA nation Track Attack event. Wondering the pits I found a Locost and a S4 track car, Twink, dry sump, LHD. Very nicely prepared and well driven. I told the owner about this site, hopefully he joins. NCM looks like a fun track, better than I expected, fast but technical, about a 2:15 lap time for the fast cars. I was talking to Andy Hollis (sold him some Honda parts), he rates it in his top 5 US tracks. I will look for an event there next year. Graham

Unfinished Locost project. Looks pretty complete. http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=24499&sid=448020dacd02692d8a2ce46ea719fb50 Graham

I think the Triumph Rocket 3 would be perfect engine. Powerful, torquey, and great tuning potential. Shaft drive so it should be an easy install. Graham

The diabolical devices are called Dzus fasteners, You can buy drivers designed for these type of fasteners. You can get cheaper ones on sites like Summit Racing. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=HARDDZUS Graham

Dan, have you still got the original oil pump, if so put in a new seal and install it. I think these upgraded oil pumps are solving a problem that does not exist. I have used and abused a few Miata's over the years, never changed the oil pump. Maybe if you had a high pressure turbo setup it might help, but otherwise I think it's just money in the vendors pocket. Just an idea Graham

Reverse bleeding sounds like a good thing, the air is naturally wanting to rise in the fluid, we are pushing it down. I have seen a coupe of race car setups which had like a dry brake on the caliper, they had a pressure supplied setup where they could replace all the brake fluid in seconds. I think it's more common in endurance racing. Graham