fastg

Found this in the back of Grassroots Motorsports. https://fastcraft.biz/ They are prepping VortX 7's for NASA Super Touring classes. Might check them out the next time I am in Ohio. Graham

It's not a Locost, the door sill is sloped with an upturn at the front. It also has a transverse leaf spring with a single trailing arm. Actually that looks like the back end of Spitfire chassis. Neat looking car, you will have fun. Graham

It looks like I can make this work. Graham

Do a search on tps 280dp Found a few links including. https://johnreedracing.com/products/penny-and-giles-tps280dp-position-sensor Not sure were that are located. It's great they give you wiring information on the body, very useful. Graham

From the Locost USA group, it's a private group so I cannot post a link. I have a T9 transmission out of a Merkur XR4Ti that I will not use as I have swapped in a T5. The trans came out of a running car and is in good working order. Located in the Kansas City area and it is $400.

Well I just had to get the welder out. The stealth plan quickly failed as there is just not enough room to snake the pipe down out out the original hole. Just tack welded together, have a local friend with a TIG welder, I sold mine when I moved to MD. Graham

One picture is from Mid-Ohio, the Honda bridge is now gone. The other is VIR.

BPR7ES is a resistor plug, that is what the R signifies. MV8 is right B7ES is a better choice. Graham

VIP Suite booked. Graham

There is a follow up to the chassis selection video.

My car is a LoCost but the front suspension does not know that. I run 15x6 front and 15x7 rear loaded with 205 and 225 receptivity. I have no trouble with tram lining, the car is planted. I have run the R888 and the R888s. I much preferred the R888 but they no longer offer it in 15". With the much stiffer sidewall I always had problems getting the R888s up to temp, but I know others love them. I now use the Toyo RA1, I favorite with the Miata crowd. Softer side wall, easy to get up to temp and grip the best just before the cords show. I have attached a picture of my alignment spec, it's a live rear axle car so the rear settings are not that adjustable.

I don't think I have seen this listed, if so oops.

Are wheel spacers the best solution, no. But if there well designed they are safe and effective. When I first got my Locost it has strange steel wheels. To get some modern style Aluminum wheels and stay within the fender I had to run large spacers. I was not happy about the situation, but they worked without an issue. I did not like it as a long term solution so I re-engineered the front suspension to make them unnecessary. I did consider them a high maintenance piece, checking the torque on the spacer and wheel frequently. Graham

Not sure what the tape is all about. But it looks to me that 2 studs are intact and 2 snapped? So I would guess 2 nuts fell off and the other 2 gave up. Graham

I have taken some pics, I am not sure it shows the details, but it's tough to photograph. You can remove light scratches, heavier ones you can use something more abrasive and then use the Scotchbrite. I don't actually remember doing mine in 2023, so it's been a while, you can see a few rain spots and small scratches. You can always go to the local hardware or metal supply store and pick up a piece and experiment. Graham

Yes the spray bottle Simply Green. Graham

One point I will add, you MUST only use the synthetic pads. using steel wool will imbed steel fragments in the Aluminum and it with damage the surface. Graham

My car was originally polished, it was just too much work, so I un-polished it. I use a similar system to mrmustang, green Scotchbrite pad and Simply Green as a lubricant. At one of the major car shows I talked the a Mcguires rep. He recommended there Detail spray as a way to keep the finish. It works very well, I touch it up about once a year. Graham

Looks good to me, point it inwards as you can just get the sensor to screw in. The collector will have sealed, or do you see constant scooting around the primary tubes. Plug tuning is great with new plugs and full throttle, after a miles it's all over. With an O2 sensor you can tune the midrange, accelerator pump settings, even part throttle economy. O2 sensor is the way to go. Graham

Not a 7 specific review, but Andy does a good general description of the trans and setup. Graham

It make me laugh when people say FI is to complicated, we are already at step 17:) Graham

Do you have any undertray behind the radiator. My car originally had an undertray between the nosecone and the front of the engine, it actually wrapped around the front on of the sump. During the engine swap from the Miata to Honda powered it got lost. I had been running the Honda for a while before I found the undertray behind the bench. Great, I reinstalled it, instant overheating. So getting good air thru your radiator will only help if the air has a path out of the engine bay. Graham

"intercooler installed behind the radiator" That's an interesting choice, your trying to cool you inlet charge with the warm air that is coming thru the radiator. And the intake is close to the turbo, so your putting warm air thru the turbo and then trying to cool it with warm air thru the radiator! I don't think that will change your cooling problem, but it sure would help your performance. If you have a crate engine we must assume the water pump is good. What is the radiator? are you running a thermostat? Graham

The US Toyo site does not list the CF2. The general description is "The Toyo Proxes CF2 is a premium-range summer tyre designed for passenger cars." Lots of reviews reviews from Camry's. Graham