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fastg

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Everything posted by fastg

  1. Well done, test drive next? Graham
  2. I think that is the default, i.e. nothing plugged in. I am guessing Fuel Load is fuel pressure, did you an an extra fuel pressure sensor? I have no idea what Ignition Load is in kpa? MAP sensor is disconcerting, but it should still run even with it unplugged, just not run well. Graham
  3. OK, you did some good tests and you know a lot more than you did yesterday. You have sparks and the timing is in the zip code. That is a good injector test. If you don't use the zip ties they fly across the garage:) Did you change the injectors or are they the original injectors? If you have swapped injectors there are high and low impedance injectors that can screw you up. Did you check the ground status? I remember there is a stud on the back of the head on the right side that is the master ground, is there anything attached to that stud? https://mx5unleashed.com/tech/megasquirt-pnp.html Graham
  4. How are you checking the sparks? Do the plugs look wet? Looks like you using IAC, are you giving it any throttle during starting process. I would get some starter fluid, remove the inlet setup back to the throttle body. A little starter fluid and a little throttle, if the timing is even close it should go vooom. Graham
  5. "10 degrees retarded" from what, 10 degrees ATDC (After Top Dead Center) will not work, you always need some advance to run, 10 degrees advance is a good status fixed timing starting point. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/base-timing/ But I thought we were thinking it was an injector problem, what changed? Graham
  6. Well you need to start with the harness, which one did you use, or was it an adapter? But start there follow the ground wires back from the injector all the way to the ECU. Megasquirt's on a Miata are very ground sensitive, did you use the correct ECU to engine ground? There might be something in the install notes, about grounds, if there is follow them to the letter. There is an amazing amount of support for the MS on https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/ almost 650 threads, they have been involved with the MS since the early days. There used to be a user Brainiac or something like that, he built 100's. Including mine. Graham
  7. My order is always 1. Fuel pressure (does the fuel pump run). 2. Sparks 3. Injection. Keep up the good work, you will figure it out. Graham
  8. A Garrett 6262 would suite my K24 Honda engine, it would be to large for your Duratec. I would not buy a Garrett for your situation, hell I would not buy one for my car, very expensive. There are a lot of good Chinachargers available, you can probably get a ball bearing turbo for $600 a Garrett would be closer to $1900. Graham
  9. Connet to the squirt and check the values, IAT, coolant temp, throttle position should move with the pedal. If all looks good, disconnect the fuel pump so you can crank the engine over and get oil pressure. Reconnect the fuel pump and make some noise. Just run it for a few seconds and check for leaks. Second start, get it up to temp so the thermostat opens. Graham
  10. Looking good. Make sure you remove any finger prints from the exhaust before first startup or the will burn in. Just use a solvent and rag to remove any residue. Graham
  11. My projects have a life cycle, a long term plan. Adding a turbo will probably be the final iteration. MV8 is right a low pressure turbo system would be simple and cost effective. Medium size turbo, you don't want one that spools up to quickly, nor do you want a large turbo that will cause to much lag, Garrett 6262 with a .83 exhaust housing is the favorite at the moment. Good waist gate priority to allow low pressure spring to be affective. I was thinking of a 4 pound base spring increasing to 8 pounds to higher rpm. 8 pounds would give me about 400rwbhp, so maybe a 6 pound max boost. I don't think an intercooler will be requires if you have good starting IAT. Or I could phone 4 Piston and order the 1000bhp all day setup:) Graham
  12. W. Va. to Offer Car Titling in All 50 States
  13. Nice work, very similar to my setup, check you driving IAT. Mine is normally just a couple of degrees above ambient. If it still high build a airbox around the filter, There is a LOT of heat in a 7 engine bay. Graham
  14. If you have swapped, the plug, coil and harness around with no effect, it might be time to look at the injectors. Graham
  15. Bummer, I cannot make this date at a Grassroots Motorsport event at NCM. Graham
  16. Come in BRG so how perfect is that. https://us.kef.com/products/ls60-wireless-lotus-edition Graham
  17. https://www.theautopian.com/vermont-will-no-longer-register-cars-in-any-state-because-people-couldnt-stop-doing-crimes/
  18. I think you can get a rear cover with drain and fill ports. Graham
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  19. Drove over to Absolute Proformance in Finksburg MD, just to start planning the winter upgrades. Shop will be closed by the end of the month. EPA gave John a choice, pay massive fines or shut up shop. The consider every vehicle with a 17 digit vin a road car, so every car he has tunes or modified is in violation of Federal Clean Air act. This is a major blow as the guy really understood Honda engine and tuning them. I guess they are one be one shutting down all the shops in MD. Graham
  20. If you think you have voltage issues attach a jump box or jump cables to a second battery. That will give you extra capacity. Just a suggestion. Graham
  21. Dave, I have a Locost with a K24/Miata trans, RX7 solid rear axle. The K24 is a great motor, but it's a very tall. If you have a book size car you will have to modify something to get it to fit, a 442 would be easier. Graham
  22. Yep should be fine, just match the piston bore size and you will be OK. Graham
  23. I don't think your comparison to F1 engines is valid. There run very short stroke turbo engines and there piston speed is limited by an RPM and fuel flow limit, not piston destruction. This is an endurance spec motor, I know the owner Now lets return to "CatKong". Graham
  24. Clutch cylinder have a lot of throw. Think about the brake pedal, it only moves a small amount, but the clutch pedal goes to the floor every time, so there is a large volume of fluid moving around. That movement of fluid allow dirt to migrate back up to the master. A yearly replacement of clutch fluid is a good idea, especially if you have a internal style slave cylinder. Graham
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