ihckb2

they are also used in boat work.

Maybe there trying to tell you something......like your going to fall through the floor

Welcome to the club Simon.

I had the rear ball on the A frame break, I would carefully check it out. The rubbing of the driveline is most likely because the traction bars on either side of the car are not properly adjusted causing the diff to be angled incorrectly. As I found on mine the bushings on the shocks, and traction bars are probably worn out as they were just a rubber compound. I replaced with poly type bushings and have had no problems at all. I also replace the rear ball with a much more reliable hiem(sp) joint and modified the connection to the diff.

Thanks for posting and sharing with other Fejer 7 owners. This could be a help in registering for collector status on our 7's in B.C.

Terry Can you give us an estimated time of departure from Vernon on the 13th. Unfortunately I would like to travel with the group for part of the day but we are now in the process moving an things just aren't going as planned. Would like to leave Kamloops early in the AM and meet up with the group either in Vernon or somewhere along the way. Don't no where you have planned a lunch stop but maybe you have something planned. Can you give us some idea. Thanks Glen Dale-Johnson

I suspect it was someone with a trailer and never felt it. I did this once with my horse trailer into a block wall, must have just touched it and never felt it. Got home a noticed a damaged tail light on the corner. Went back a couple of days later to the same spot and sure enough there was the damaged tail light lense. Doesn't take much. I'm sure if the guy new what he had done he would be upset, unless he is a complete a--hole, then he doesn't even belong behind a wheel. Nice make up job. Love the paint job on the car, a real beauty.

Interesting steering linkage, it appears that the Pinto flex shaft was used similar to the Fejer 7 from Canada. Or am I just seeing things? Nice looking unit.

With that much rubber it looks like you could do a river run. Love the color. Good luck with registration.

This may be a little off the topic but is referenced to overheating. Has anybody used the EVANS waterless coolant?

You lucky guy... 6'1" and 135lbs. If you plan on owning a 7 far into the future keep up that trim body. Stay with the college education first and the 7 will come sooner than you think. Good luck with the college.

Pretty hard to drive a 7 with RHD on North American roads. The passenger thinks your out to kill them.

Hey Chinook Wheres your Fejer? There have been a few come up for sale now and then. One was for sale in Victoria that was never assembled. I tried to make contact with relatives of the Fejers Bros at one time but no response. Wanted to get more history on the 7 builds, maybe you can help. Regards

Assuming that all your trumpets have a shoulder on them then the base with larger holes is the correct one. This will alow the base plate to be positioned and the trumpets slid into place, bottoming completely into the carb. The outside face of the trumpet shoulder should be flush with the outside face of the carb. The trumpets and base plate should be held in position with a "D" washer that fits around the radius of the trumpet and locks the trumpet and base plate down. The thickness of the base plate may not allow the washer to actually clamp the trumpet down but will keep the trumpet in place. Chances of the trumpet popping out are pretty slim even if the "D" washer was not used. You could if you want bend the "D" washers ears slightly to lock the trumpet down. The key is to have a could seal on the base plate to the carb face. I would inlarge the other base plate to fit the slip in trumpets. If the trumpets are the flange type then the smaller hole base plate is the correct one. I think this would be self explanatory.

Buy yourself a Weber Carburators by Pat Braden book. It has a Altitude Compensation Table.

very nice job

Terry, We have put this off with the hope that we would be able to do the whole trip with the group, but unfortunately timing will not work out for us. We would however like to join the group as it passes through Kamloops on the way to Pemberton, with a possible overnight in Pemberton. Glen & Karen

Dave is correct on the bell housing as I replaced my older T-50 with the newer T-50 and the only difference is that the front input shaft bearing was upgraded from a ball bearing to a roller bearing. The outer race shell diameter in the roller bearing is larger and therefore I had to have the bell housing machined to accept the larger diameter. My bell housing was from the 2TG which should be the same as the 2T or 2TC. The 4AGE may have to be mounted on a slight angle, dipped to the left for the oil filler to clear the bonnet. My 2TG is mounted this way and I have had no problems. Also with mine the engine has to mount on an angle for the carbs to clear the frame work. I think the engines are originally mounted on a slight angle. There are all kinds of parts and upgrades for the 4AGE. Find someone who knows these engines well as there is differences between them for HP, pollution junk etc.. I believe the Black Top is the one to look for. I also have a 4AGE bell housing if anybody needs it. There is also USA7s member that is in North Vancouver that runs the 2TC in his Fejer.

hi fbracer I'm in Kamloops with a Fejer as well. If you went with a Newer Toyota 4AGE engine it will most likely bolt up to the T50 transmission that you probably have. The motor mounts may have to change slightly. If the 2t engine is still runable I would go with it for now. The are reliable and bullet proof. drop me a line, glen.dalejohnson@gmail.com ihckb2

Lights were know as Lucas Flame Throwers, I had a pair on my modified 63 VW back in the 70's.

Welcome back. We spent 4 weeks in India (Rajasthan) a few years back, loved it.

If you use the top rail as a mounting for your cover you may fine that water will creep under during rain or wet conditions due to the short overhang onto the vertical. If you look at various pictures you will note that the cover ends a couple of inches down from the top of the boot rail. Making the tail of the cover longer also helps keep the lower edge tighter and less likely to be wavy between the fasteners. If you are not making the cover yourself, and even if you are, it might be wise to check with a shop that specializes in this sort of thing for their input. You can put a small dip on the tail of the cover to go around your filler.

What ever you use go with pop rivets. Once a screw is stripped you are screwed.

I don't do track with mine, but I do autocross. Although the car is listed as 1973, I think it was built in the late 70's early 80's. The motor however if it is a 2TG engine, then the engine would be mid 70's. Also possible its an 18AGE, almost the same as the 2TG only 80's vintage. The car will have discs on the front and drums rear. I have had no problem with enough brake power with what I do, but on a track it might not be enough. It looks like from the pictures that the brake reservoir is very low on the firewall, which is not like mine at all. This could present a real heat problem for the brake fluid as this is just behind the exhaust header. It appears that the shocks are the old coil over shocks available at that time, probably Armstrong. Upgrade to adjustable shocks made a big difference on mine. I went with Spax. I'm a little miffed that the pictures in the EBay ad didn't not show a Data plate. I wrote a memo in regards to a plate, but no answer yet. The price is right, with a few mods you could have a very nice car.

Check this Fejer out, has 1 strap, nice looking unit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LOTUS-SUPER-SEVEN-REPRODUCTION-1576-miles-BRAND-NEW-/221188702468?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=