speedwagon

I believe the bushings are Toyota. The Rotus manufacturer was a Toyota dealer. I have a Rotus chassis (also with a rotary) lengthened, with a glass over foam body that was patterned after the Lola Mk1. Will keep watching your work, and will dig out the mass of information that came with the car as a bit pertains to the chassis. john

Thanks for the fenders, they arrived sound and well packed. john

Two thoughts-- the Spectra in LA is interesting although not a "7" and the Replica in Fayetteville appears to have Superformance S1 fenders (front and rear), front fender mounting and the front suspension looks like it could be. Possible source of parts??

Will second the advice given by S1Steve. and add my plan-- due to rough usage (The part by me greatly enjoyed) my top has some defects and the windshield is getting badly pitted. So when the time comes may try to find the glass guy who said " i can get a windshield to fit any frame" (Who's card is lost) or just make/adapt a flat glass frame to fit the car and new doors with a hard top. Another avenue is to advertise on craigslist in South Africa for parts as when superformance abandoned the S1 they likely left tooling, knowledge and drawings there. They sure are not giving any support to the existing cars (this should be a clue for anyone considering buying one of their current products (ie future orphan). It is a crying shame as the S1 as sold is a good car and about as street-able as it gets that would have improved with increased production. I have one and am glad, but in today's world would have bought one made by one of the leading makers that are likely to give continued support. john

sent you a PM as I am in need of fenders. john

I own #22 and paid nearly as much for a heavily auto-crossed unit with a rotary engine that was nothing like smooth at the time. This one is one of the last made if mot the last and would have all the upgrades, and is nearly new condition. It is tempting to upgrade and a cross- country drive in a S1 would be quite comfortable. john

Wish to chime in, Croc; You have been the "market maker" for 7s for a few years, there is no telling how much time you have saved both buyers and sellers by helping to create a pool of knowledgeable people in both categories. My car is going to out live me one of these days and a realistic value, is of value. Thank you very much for your time and knowledge. john

i have 5 or6 half shafts from rx-7 fc that can be had free with pickup or i will be going to Ogden, UT. first week of Oct. Although- would doubt that this car would ever tear one up they are tough.

It has been a few years since my "instrumentation" days. But a check valve in a flow line is effectively an orifice plate and will reduce pressure "down side" for only a short distance. (you can look up orifice plate and get the exact formula). and check valves are commonly used in applications that require limited flow reduction. My only reservation would be the quality of the valve and design of the mechanism. Wouldn't be a buying any offshore junk. I would not hesitate to use one but as for anything in the lube system it would be of the highest quality. this is one of my favorite sites to read because of the friendly, helpful nature, and amazing volume of knowledge here. john

In my previous post I meant to say-- if the filter base is above the level of the oil in the tank yes it would break the vacuum. and as far as cavitation is a concern- gear pumps generally do not experience this. (remember in the old days before we had a shaft to run the oil pump before starting a fresh engine the pump would pull the air out of the system at start-up. my worst fear would be a tossup between a stuck closed check valve(not likely at the low pressure) and a hydro-locked engine. john am editing this post after reviewing the original data----EDIT if you force the oil back from the high located filter and reconnect it; there will be no siphoning because there is insufficent weight of oil in the line down hill from the filter to pull the oil from the tank uphill and through the filter. Sorry for misreading the original post (must be a product of age). john

if the filter base is below the oil level in the tank--yes as soon as you raise the output hose higher than the fuel level in the vessel you are siphoning from flow stops. Learned that as a youth getting "discount" gasoline.

My quest is a little different-- The quest for me is finding the best for the price liability source. Have not carried collision since 1966 nor have I not paid cash. But my current provider charges twice as much for my "lola/rotus" (at 1k miles per year) as it does for my 1 ton f350 4x4 dualy (at 10k per year) underwriter doesn't want to explain. I am 76 and in AZ It is not so much about money as it is about being screwed. Would love to find an "umbrella" that would cover everything over a high deductible.

I bought the Rotus/lola from a gentleman near Galveston it had been on ebay and we shared data afterward. Once we agreed on the deal I would have shipped it but it was easier and not much more to run get it from western AZ. Paid cash and did not bother to do a detailed inspection as I was confident that any surprises would not show up with one. Still have it and quite happy with the seller. Bought my Superformance S1 pretty much the same way. Just closer. First rule--"do not deal with scuzzballs". the description of the car will point them out if you look closely.

I bought the yellow lola looking rotus that you showed back about Christmas that I didn't need. and have been cussing you ever since for another project that I did not need. You do in fact provide a very good service for both buyer and seller and would classify this thread as- A market maker for 7s. Think that a "thank you very much" can be said from all of us here.

will add to turbofocus's statement above, a wideband a/f meter should be in every tool box (and it is even of more use when using carbs.

I have a s1 and a rotus chassis. the s1 accommodates my 36" waist at the butt but any more would be tight. the rotus seats are too cramped and the foot well way too small for my 13s. the s1 is doable with "barefoot" shoes. But no "heel and toe" for me so it is just toe.

It appears to be surface rust, but at any rate there would be an undo then do as it has set so long. And what is the age of the tires? Too many unknowns here. And at the present time there are many "bargains" in the reasonably priced/completed/sorted/maintained category to be taking on a project, and just doing needed maintenance is a full time job.

Advice received from those who have been there both happy and unhappy is--- 1 follow the directions of your therapist. 2. (see #1) 3 (see #1) exercise is the best pain relief long term.

In the S1 the car is the seat, but still narrow but 6' 4" is big but not wallmart size. I used to be 6' before downsizing and can move the pedals too far forward for me to reach. Worst part is that my size 13s even in barefoot shoes are too big. And comfortable for longer drives (did about 700 miles in one day and was not crippled which is better than the Miata or jag xj. Still prefer pickup for distances. john

I have had personal experience with them when things went wrong more than once. Their ability and willingness to handle it gets a high recommendation from me. And they do carry some budget (off shore mostly) parts but have them grouped in such a way that it is easy to avoid them.

The add is gone (usually means sold). Cannot remember what the drive train was to prompt my comment about it being nonstandard. And the one I have has a kinda/sorta Lola mk1 clone body and stretched chassis. Find myself eyeballing the 450hp 408 Windsor and c4 in my Ranchero and it would fit actually quite well (might need a low profile air cleaner). Now if someone would just buy the Ranchero as a roller.

I have a car on a Rotus chassis it is sound, easy to work on and room for a ls v8 if wanted. This car has non-standard drive train but should be able to get parts, has patina but at 6k would make an excellent entry car for a slim budget.

And just one more thing--Small frontal area--- means BIG fan the biggest that will fit and big wire to run the fan. With a fan relay near to the fan with direct wire (large #10 or larger) with both an auto on(by temp) and a switch (on the ignition circuit so you don't forget and leave the fan on manual after parking running the battery down. john

some how missed this thread earlier. There are only 54 of us with Focus engines but the heat problem is far worse with a rotary in #22. (a quick side while I still remember -- it runs in my mind that the rear end is from a Ford sierra, whatever that is. mine has a 8 bolt cut down camero) The wiring is the worst thing about these cars, fuse box is a source of eternal problems and all the wires are under sized and run willi-nilly with little or no protection. replace the fuse box and rewire the whole car paying special attention to the fuel and ignition circuits. Since mine had a bovine experience that gave me the opportunity to consider scrapping the nose cone I have tried several options. First tried a 93 rx-7 radiator with a rx-7 oil cooler high behind it and separating the air flow so that they both got clean air. Present configuration (not tested as yet) is similar using an 4 core aftermarket aluminum radiator from a 70s rx-7 that will require just a couple of slight bumps in the nose. Same oil cooler but with an auxiliary oil to water cooler to pre-cool the oil. the inter-cooler will be mounted high and back and receive air "cowl induction". Have not started rebuilding the nose as yet, but have decided to dis pence with the bars and perhaps sharpen the edges to increase frontal opening. Am also considering a "skid pan" just back to the oil pan trying to create a vacuum of sorts under the car. Sorry for rambling but once started just kept going. good luck to all BTW everyone should consider a tank mounted fuel pump for better cooling and longer life. john

my Superformance resided in Ticaboo and there are some real nice although higher speed (and more dangerous) took it from bullhead to boulder on the burr trail once (bit rough and dusty) now in lower desert. john