speedwagon

Even if you fed the valve through the intake the rotor would have busted the valve up into little pieces and spit it out. fake photo.

John to John What are you running for or from? and are you sure the voters deserve either of us? And as usual Croc gets the last word in first. I do have an affiliation, but it is yet to come. Yes this is the most considerate place on the internet.

I have a rotus chassis with a sort-of 60 lola mk1 body clone. And a superformance to compare. Rotus rides entirely too hard for me (but may be that it has Carrillo coil-overs rather than the original- too much spring?. The chassis is of comparable workmanship and uses stock toyota bushings in the suspension. Also both were of a 50 or total run and I would expect design changes for both during the run. And, even I cannot build the perfect car the first time and doubt that the complainer or even Chapman could. john

back in the 50s USAC did not allow exposed roll over protection, just what was under the head rest. My first drag car was a flat head ford frame with just a wheel and a bar stool wired to it, no radiator (hoses out of the to to the bottom. times have changed.

there is a carb geru on thesamba.com who has info for making the Weber progressives work right. they were a kinda/sorta popular carb on air cooled VWs. the info can be found here; https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=386388 carb acts all the same on any engine of same size. Save money--drive car more = happiness. john (dinks with rotorery air VW and ford small blocks)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16210[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]16211[/ATTACH] One thing I am having trouble finding is info on the shocks. They're Koni 80-2091, 15.5" extended length, 11" compressed. Even the Koni rebuilders can't find info about them in their systems. Rebuilding cost seems pretty high. The spring rates are ~80lbs/in front and ~100lbs/in rear. I'd be interested in what other folks are using for shocks. I have no plans to race the car, just street drive and maybe autocross it non-competitively. I am in the same boat that you are on the shocks. My Rotus framed Lola? has Carrillos and rides like a buckboard. And here in Arizona even the interstates favor off road suspension. The bushings were beat out of them when I got it. Btw the rotary was well suited to a 7. Worst thing is the "bark" but a turbo calms that down.

talk to someone who bought a brand new, made in USA (sic) ford 6.0 diesel, chevy 6.5 diesel, explorer, or for that matter any other domestic or forien new auto. My superformance came from a life of being "run hard and put away wet" with an odd-ball rotary engine and has been much less problem than the ford 7.3, explorer or Jag xj8. My keeper list includes the Superformance, a 90 f150 4wd with a inline 6, and a 66 Ranchero 408ci hot rod that was home built with less than 50 miles on it. Most of the auto companies learned- how to build a sorted quality product from microsoft-- sell it and let the customer sort it-- and a good trustworthy mechanic shop beats almost all dealerships. and good luck finding one near you. and if you do-- kiss them regularly.

I believe the bushings are Toyota. The Rotus manufacturer was a Toyota dealer. I have a Rotus chassis (also with a rotary) lengthened, with a glass over foam body that was patterned after the Lola Mk1. Will keep watching your work, and will dig out the mass of information that came with the car as a bit pertains to the chassis. john

Thanks for the fenders, they arrived sound and well packed. john

Two thoughts-- the Spectra in LA is interesting although not a "7" and the Replica in Fayetteville appears to have Superformance S1 fenders (front and rear), front fender mounting and the front suspension looks like it could be. Possible source of parts??

Will second the advice given by S1Steve. and add my plan-- due to rough usage (The part by me greatly enjoyed) my top has some defects and the windshield is getting badly pitted. So when the time comes may try to find the glass guy who said " i can get a windshield to fit any frame" (Who's card is lost) or just make/adapt a flat glass frame to fit the car and new doors with a hard top. Another avenue is to advertise on craigslist in South Africa for parts as when superformance abandoned the S1 they likely left tooling, knowledge and drawings there. They sure are not giving any support to the existing cars (this should be a clue for anyone considering buying one of their current products (ie future orphan). It is a crying shame as the S1 as sold is a good car and about as street-able as it gets that would have improved with increased production. I have one and am glad, but in today's world would have bought one made by one of the leading makers that are likely to give continued support. john

sent you a PM as I am in need of fenders. john

I own #22 and paid nearly as much for a heavily auto-crossed unit with a rotary engine that was nothing like smooth at the time. This one is one of the last made if mot the last and would have all the upgrades, and is nearly new condition. It is tempting to upgrade and a cross- country drive in a S1 would be quite comfortable. john

Wish to chime in, Croc; You have been the "market maker" for 7s for a few years, there is no telling how much time you have saved both buyers and sellers by helping to create a pool of knowledgeable people in both categories. My car is going to out live me one of these days and a realistic value, is of value. Thank you very much for your time and knowledge. john

i have 5 or6 half shafts from rx-7 fc that can be had free with pickup or i will be going to Ogden, UT. first week of Oct. Although- would doubt that this car would ever tear one up they are tough.

It has been a few years since my "instrumentation" days. But a check valve in a flow line is effectively an orifice plate and will reduce pressure "down side" for only a short distance. (you can look up orifice plate and get the exact formula). and check valves are commonly used in applications that require limited flow reduction. My only reservation would be the quality of the valve and design of the mechanism. Wouldn't be a buying any offshore junk. I would not hesitate to use one but as for anything in the lube system it would be of the highest quality. this is one of my favorite sites to read because of the friendly, helpful nature, and amazing volume of knowledge here. john

In my previous post I meant to say-- if the filter base is above the level of the oil in the tank yes it would break the vacuum. and as far as cavitation is a concern- gear pumps generally do not experience this. (remember in the old days before we had a shaft to run the oil pump before starting a fresh engine the pump would pull the air out of the system at start-up. my worst fear would be a tossup between a stuck closed check valve(not likely at the low pressure) and a hydro-locked engine. john am editing this post after reviewing the original data----EDIT if you force the oil back from the high located filter and reconnect it; there will be no siphoning because there is insufficent weight of oil in the line down hill from the filter to pull the oil from the tank uphill and through the filter. Sorry for misreading the original post (must be a product of age). john

if the filter base is below the oil level in the tank--yes as soon as you raise the output hose higher than the fuel level in the vessel you are siphoning from flow stops. Learned that as a youth getting "discount" gasoline.

My quest is a little different-- The quest for me is finding the best for the price liability source. Have not carried collision since 1966 nor have I not paid cash. But my current provider charges twice as much for my "lola/rotus" (at 1k miles per year) as it does for my 1 ton f350 4x4 dualy (at 10k per year) underwriter doesn't want to explain. I am 76 and in AZ It is not so much about money as it is about being screwed. Would love to find an "umbrella" that would cover everything over a high deductible.

I bought the Rotus/lola from a gentleman near Galveston it had been on ebay and we shared data afterward. Once we agreed on the deal I would have shipped it but it was easier and not much more to run get it from western AZ. Paid cash and did not bother to do a detailed inspection as I was confident that any surprises would not show up with one. Still have it and quite happy with the seller. Bought my Superformance S1 pretty much the same way. Just closer. First rule--"do not deal with scuzzballs". the description of the car will point them out if you look closely.

I bought the yellow lola looking rotus that you showed back about Christmas that I didn't need. and have been cussing you ever since for another project that I did not need. You do in fact provide a very good service for both buyer and seller and would classify this thread as- A market maker for 7s. Think that a "thank you very much" can be said from all of us here.

will add to turbofocus's statement above, a wideband a/f meter should be in every tool box (and it is even of more use when using carbs.

I have a s1 and a rotus chassis. the s1 accommodates my 36" waist at the butt but any more would be tight. the rotus seats are too cramped and the foot well way too small for my 13s. the s1 is doable with "barefoot" shoes. But no "heel and toe" for me so it is just toe.

It appears to be surface rust, but at any rate there would be an undo then do as it has set so long. And what is the age of the tires? Too many unknowns here. And at the present time there are many "bargains" in the reasonably priced/completed/sorted/maintained category to be taking on a project, and just doing needed maintenance is a full time job.

Advice received from those who have been there both happy and unhappy is--- 1 follow the directions of your therapist. 2. (see #1) 3 (see #1) exercise is the best pain relief long term.