yellowss7

I'm in the Philly suburbs. Mine is registered as a Special Construction Vehicle. Back when I did it, you could go to any inspection site but they changed that to require you to go to one of the Special Construction approved sites to get it inspected. Then you have to send pictures along with the inspection report/sticker to get your registration. Mine was done, 19 years ago, so I don't know how today's process has evolved. My Car is insured as a 2000 Caterham. But my title says SCV. They issued a new Id plated at the time of registration. Pay attention to the Bumper requirement, I think they changed it to accommodate cars that didn't have them originally, but don't quote me on that. Do your research. Good Luck. Tom

I thought that there was a hole on the side of the tunnel in the passenger side where you could access the reverse switch??? Funny that you mention the problem with the tail lights. On my Orange car, had a similar problem, Same result, two wires were pinned wrong in the plug. Must be an dyslecsic Englishman doing the wiring or just a hold over LUCAS curse. :rofl:

That red with black stripe SLR might be FE07's car. if not it's twin. I ordered my car as a Superlight 6 speed, Barnby Mag wheels carbon dash, all the superlight options,and I did the spare delete, etc. I had to order the VHPD spec Dry Sumped Rover K separately of course to get it into the US. My dash plate is the same as all the English Superlights, unlike the US dash plates which I believe are not numbered or say America or something. I did cheat though in that I ordered Clams instead of cycle wings, Which was heresy, and contrary to popular opinion, the tires do just fit under the wings, even with the widetrack front suspension. I'm planning on bringing it and my Orange car to the NJMP event so you will have a chance to compare. Tom

Hold on there! Your statement is not quite correct. My 2000 Superlight #123 is listed on the Lotus 7 club's SL registry. I ordered it and assembled it here in the states, and I did import a Rover K series VHPD motor for it. So it's a Superlight by designation but specced to SLR levels. So It is possible to have a original Superlight here in the US. BTW mine is Left hand drive as well and I have the original Mike Barnby magnesium wheels. If you click your link above, and select the Superlight tab, you'll see my car #123 listed. Tom

Almost there! What's your total hour count at? I think you are way ahead of my 80 hours.

You still have a couple months to sort it out. I just replaced the harnesses in my orange car and will replace the ones in the yellow car shortly. Caterham has a set for our cars in stock and at a reasonable price, compared to the Schroth ones I put in Orange. It's not a hard job. Six bolts and you have to take the seat base and track out. but other than that it's a hour job at most, usually less. If you go with the caterham harnesses, don't forget to add the sub belts to your order. the harnesses are 4 point and you need to add the sub belts to make it a five or six point. another 25 bucks or so. As for the leak, is it a constant drip? one of our guys had a couple drops per hour and he just fitted a "diaper" under it. took a rag and tie wrapped it on to keep it off the track. Now if it's a serious leak, then you definitely need to fix it.

Never seen them check certification of the roll bars. But your safety dictates that it should be a good one. Arm restraints are easy, Croc and I both have several extra pairs. I'll hold one for you. They just slip thru the shoulder harness before latching. Learning the tracks are simple. Watch some of our Youtube videos and you will quickly pick them up. Only two left hand turns on each track. All other turns are righnt handers. We usually do a follow behind for the first few laps for those who haven't been to NJMP before. Croc and I lead a group or two out and gradually pic up the pace over several laps, to familarize you with the turn in and braking points. Works well. Again, the Novice group is also a good way to get the feel of the car and track, and is best for those who have never been on track with traffic before. Looking behind you is not second nature when you are trying to learn a track, the car and are at speed. Like drinking from a fire hose, too much information. at least for my small brain.

Car, a Se7en. Car has to pass tech, and they have gotten stricter this year. In Date harnesses or street belts. No leaks, battery secure, positive terminal covered. Tires, brakes, bearing etc, all is good condition. Roll bar over the top of the helmet. arm restraints. Driver, Closed face Helmet at least 2010 or newer, Valid drivers license, Long pants and closed shoes. Drivers suit is optional. As to skill level, give Mike and I a heads up on your experience. If you have not been on track yet. We will have you run with the novice group first to give you a chance to learn the track and your car at track speeds. There is no passing in the novice group, so you can learn the track without having to be concerned with the cars behind you. We have had several guys start in novice and be approved to move up into the Sevens only group. But there you have to be able to watch your mirrors for other cars. It's fun group of drivers of all skill levels. It's not a race, we are just having fun. It's nice to go out and safely drive you car to your level and not have to worry about a huge, mustang or corvette looking to run you over on the straights. The cornering speed is usually determined by driver skill, the straight line speed by the car's power. Most do around 100 to 125 or so on the straights. The fun is in the corners and playing with other sevens. Mike and I will be happy to answer any questions . He's playing at Spa today so he'll chime in later I'm sure. Tom

I would assume so, as I had a head gasket replacement done without pulling the motor.

Word on the street is that a new hi spec Birkin is getting close to completion and may be coming East soon. So assuming my impeccable source is correct and Tom C doesn't slack off, I'm going to add this car and driver to our list of NJMP attendees. That will bring the number up to 21, with still quite a few others that have been there or had hoped to make it last year. FEO7, Dave D, Carl B, Dermot, Inchoate, DrewBrees, Blake and FredM. I'm hoping you are all working hard on your cars and will step up and join us. :smash: Tom 1) Croc 2) YellowSS7 3)Vovchandr 4)Jcerier 5)Wemtd 6)Fast G 7)Chris S 8)Kitcat 9) Dan F 10) Scott L 11) Jeff H 12) Seb 13) Roman 14) John B 15) Tom C 16) Blackhole (Jay) 17) Neil H 18) Dave H. 19) Simon450 20) Steve M 21) Steve O

I can Concur with Kitcat's statement above. Having hit my share of cones, (3) I've gotten pretty good with fiberglass and Carbon Fiber repair. The nylon bolts break and the rear wing goes flying, but the aluminum skin and rivenuts are not damaged, and after a little patching and sanding, you are good to go. Highly recommend it for all rear wings and clams. Tom

Glen I hope you invited the se7en owner to come out to our NJMP event. :driving: What did you drive out there in, the Elan?

Weather here in Philly warmed up a bit so decided I'd try to replace the starter in my Yellow car that seems to have an issue with the solenoid not engaging . What a pain in the butt. Was simple when I originally assembled the car, with the steering column in place now, not so much. The replacement starter from Caterham was different from the original one, Longer and with a different housing, ring terminal needed instead of the spade one on the old one, etc. Had to grind down a box end wrench to fit it around the bolt head as the space was too tight to get a normal sized one in. Finally got it in and went to test it. And the battery seems to be dead even though it's a year old and has been on a battery maintainer all fall/winter. AND my jump pack was dead too. Oh well, back out tomorrow to try again once the jump pack recharges . Nothing is ever easy in these cars. Anyone know if replacing the solenoid is a simple job or easy part to find given it's a Rover K series English part? Would an auto electric place be able to do it? Just thinking of having it as a spare. It cranked fine, the Bendix spring just didn't seem to engage. Tom

I too thought that was a great set of questions from Vovchandr. :smilielol5:

Looks like front and rear wings, the stone guards and you are just about done! Have you started it yet?

I think Quicksilver racing in Maryland did Michael D's zetec, and I believe Turbo Tom is currently rebuilding Kitcat's.

Hi Steve.:seeya: Great to hear that you will be making the trip out once again. You are one of the charter members, wouldn't be the same without you. Croc was just saying the other day that you haven't popped up yet because you were probably in the garage Polishing your 7. :rofl: As for your coolant issue, did you bite the bullet and replace the head gasket? You've done most everything else. Been there done that too with Orange. You're the 20th to raise your hand, and we still have quite of few of the past regulars to hear from. Yeah, I'm talking about you Fred, Dave D, Shane, Jim A., Blake, Matt. Plus there were several more that thought they'd make last year, but had issues that prevented them from making it. Come on guys, I'm still thinking that we might get 30 cars out if everyone gets their act together. The more the merrier. And we are doing both tracks again this year. If you haven't done Thunderbolt, you will love it. Tom

Very nice! I don't remember my exhaust ever looking so shiny. The assembly of my Yellow Cat took 80 hours, you look way closer to finished than that. Great work! Tom

Welcome Dave H back for this year, he just called me and said he wants more Birkins to show up. 1) Croc 2) YellowSS7 3)Vovchandr 4)Jcerier 5)Wemtd 6)Fast G 7)Chris S 8)Kitcat 9) Dan F 10) Scott L 11) Jeff H 12) Seb 13) Roman 14) John B 15) Tom C 16) Blackhole (Jay) 17) Neil H 18) Dave H. 19) Simon450 20) Steve M

Tom C on here is the US Birkin importer and all around good guy, I'd reach out to him, he probably has what you need in stock. Tom

Welcome aboard Neil. Hopefully Seb's bad influences haven't corrupted you. :rofl: I'll add you to the list. Tom

Only issue is that the stud lenght is just long enough to get the minimum number of turns on the nut to secure it. Never had any issues. Torqued to 55 lbft.

That spec sheet is Michael Dougherty's order sheet for the Kodiak wheels. I used that when ordering my set from Kodiak as well. They fit fine. Tom

Great work! :driving: It took me and a buddy, 80 hours of total wrench time to assemble my yellow car back in 2000. Funny you should mention engine tilt. My Rover K series motor also cants toward the passenger side. Keep up the good work, you'll be grinning ear to ear soon. Tom

Better go by some advil. Your face is going to hurt after driving it... From all that smiling! Enjoy!!!:driving: Tom