mrmustang

Discussion Starter · #1 · May 9, 2012 Posted this in the Insurance and registration, but thought it might be helpful to other SC builders, that haven't searched for the info yet. Thanks to an old post by Dug my SC registration was very easy. I called the local Sheriff to see if they would come inspect the car and sign the Form 4038. She took my number and said she would call back. About 15 minutes later my wife called and asked why the Sheriff was in the driveway. The Sheriff waited on me to drive home and signed the papers. I had an hour and a half to kill before having to go back to work. So, I ate a sandwich and drove to the courthouse. Paid my taxes and went to the DMV got my plates. Pretty easy. Thanks Dug! Here is Dugs instructions from an old post. Worked fine for me: The procedure: Go to the county tax office and pay property tax: was about $16.00 -I needed the Certificate of Origin and receipt for kit (Invoice) and donor bill of sale (or receipts for major components). I went to the DMV Office with the following: Proof of Insurance Certificate of Origin from Caterham Bill of Sale from Caterham (you can use the invoice) Bill of sale for Donor or Bills of sale for major components. They want to know where the engine, transmission and read-end were obtained. Form 400: -For the VIN Number use the serial number on the Certificate of Origin -For the Make: -For the Year: -For the Body Style: -For the Model: -For Empty Weight: -Odometer Mileage must be greater than 0. Form 4038 or 401-A, or both: -For the VIN Number use the serial number on the Certificate of Origin -For the Make: -For the Year: -For the Body Style: -For the Model: -Check the Custom Kit Car box You will need to have the VIN on the chassis confirmed (form 4038), I did this once downtown at University Place, but now that they are off South Pleasantburg, I'm not sure of their procedure. You might want to call and ask if they do it on specific days or hours. Or, a call to the local Sheriff office or state police office to have them do it. Most of the people doing this sort of thing are car guys/gals and will ask you tons of questions. Hope you find this helpful. Feel free to PM me once the car has arrived, I'm not far from the Michelin Cars and Coffee location. Bill

Also in Greenville, SC and multi Caterham/Birkin ownership under my belt, can't wait to see it. If you need a hand, or an ear to bend, just let me know. Bill PS: Your wife is not that naive, mine never has been, but has a smile on her face each time we get in whatever roadster graces our garage at the time.

I think by starting this thread, you are headed in the right direction, mindset wise that is. You'll need to open yourself up to the potential of moving for a higher paying position as Albany (I own 2.5% of a multi story building downtown) NY gives you a limited list of potential employers that may have a 6 figure opening. On top of that, you then need to look at cost of living if you plan to move, say NYC vs Albany, where the cost of living is easily double: https://www.nerdwallet.com/cost-of-living-calculator Keep looking at the bigger picture, as you have been to date, don't get caught up with a specific number for a salary, instead look at your quality of life, one jobs stress vs another, health and long term employee benefits, management styles of one company vs other, even commute times and associated costs. Start a spreadsheet if you need to, or a simple legal pad with two columns of wants and needs for each job you are interested in, and their associated location. Don't overthink it, but do think it through. Above all else, ask questions, either to others, or to yourself in the mirror if need be, sounds funny, but it works. Best to you and yours in reaching your goals. Bill S.

I was one of those kids that could not sit still, that, and my parents instilled a drive (no pun intended) to work for what I wanted. Some of the above (and others that were not listed) overlapped each other, as I was the consummate entrepreneur. Being a hyperactive ADHD child/adult was looked at by others as a bad thing, not for me, as I could (and still can) do multiple tasks at the same time. It is a rare occurrence where my mind is not going in 10 different directions at any given time. As an example, while typing out this response, I'm watching the news, carrying on a conversation on my cell, and sketching out the layout of the replacement cabinets in my small workshop, along with finding pricing for sheetrock for my wifes 1 car attached garage. To most, this is mind boggling, for me, just a typical afternoon..... Bill S.

I've done quite a bit in my short time on this planet, (not in any specific order) shoveled driveways in the winter, mowed lawns in the summer, worked as a waiter, dock worker, retail sales, realtor, property manager, body shop owner, networking with SGI/Cray (remember them), customer service "cooler", multiple retail franchises....In house #5 in the last 37 years of marriage, all in three states......Some of the above treated us very well, others were not the greatest investments or ideas, in the long run, we made out pretty good considering our ages..always lived below our means, paid off our mortgages and business loans early, credit cards a week before they are due, never bought anything on long term credit.....SWMBO and I retired middle of last year, she right on time, me, 3 years earlier than I expected so I could take care of a terminally ill family member. Car wise, Skip can attest to, I've had a few (300+ and not in the business), currently a 289 Roadster by SPF, Ford 2.5L 2006 Miata GT, and my 70 GT350 Shelby convertible for the toys, with a Subaru Legacy, Ford Explorer for daily drivers, and a new Expedition on order, which I'll be lucky to see in June or July. Our advice, get your finances in order, then follow your dreams, you want to go back to school to enhance your skills and take that next step, see if your current employer will foot the bill, online and night courses are the key to a semi cost free "next step". Finally, if you are unsure of taking that next step, which from your initial post, you just very well may be, don't rush into anything, take your time, plan it out, then review your plan(s) and change as needed. Wish you the best of luck Bill S.

Cobra, Miata, Shelby, Mustang, Expedition...Oh, wait, nevermind

I will assume that the center cap looks like this, can't get a larger file and better image on it. 3 small, offset holes, not sure you need to have something in all three to get it to turn.

Congratulations, look forward to watching the restoration thread. Bill S.

Ok, I'll admit, of breifly skimmed over the posts in this thread and I am surprised nobody has mentioned, if the bolt itself is not stretched, the use of a nylock nut to prevent loosening and the need to retorque as quickly as the OP has been doing. Either that, or the cross drilling and safety wiring of the same to prevent vibration of the chassis and associated parts from causing the same. Treat the car like the race car it was designed as, and use the appropriate safety measures. Sometimes the solution is the looking right at you, all you need to do is see it as the simple solution it really is. Bill S.

Being in your shoes elsewhere on the web, whichever is easier for you to administrate on the back end is just fine with me Bill S.

If he did not before the last week, I suspect the car may be buried under 10-16" of snow given it's location. Bill S.

I figured you knew, but put it out there for everyone else, as we do not want to point people to a questionable resource. Bill S.

Just an FYI, top classic cars for sale sucks ads in from around the web and is not a stand alone site. Most of the cars listed have already been sold and are grossly outdated. Think of it as a pass through site that works on "click through" advertising revenue and nothing else.

Classic scam: As for the Superformance S1, I believe this car was offered here two or three years ago

Yes, at this point I do, but may be working a deal for the car that includes them. First come, first served

Do not jump in with both feet so quickly, find someone who knows what they are looking at, be it this car, or any others you may run across. You could either be getting a great deal (not likely o0n the web these days), or a real money pit. I tell people all the time, stop, look, listen. You came here looking for guidance, this is your first of what may turn out to be many. Bill S.

So far so good, I'll see if there is anything I can break in a little while

Already built one of those about 10 year ago, would prefer an Ariel Atom in that case, but it would be another one of those solo cars, as the wife and I have had the pleasure of driving around VIR in one. Both on track, and around the surrounding countryside as we swapped one of my old Cobras for a few hours with another friend. Bill S.

I have a set of wheel dollies already, rarely have to use them as I can jockey the 4 cars currently in the garage around without them. As for a single car garage, when still living in NJ in that mid 2K's, I had a 10x20 garage with a 7 foot ceiling, it held my 1st 7, a FFR Cobra replica, snow blower, bicycles, lawn furniture and my toolbox (+misc that belongs in a garage), the trick was to swing the 7 sideways, push it almost against the back wall, then bring the cobra replica in....Never an issue, and yes, I could, most likely, squeeze 4 7's in the same space, nose to tail, nose to tail, nose to tail, nose to tail. Bill S.

With the trailer out of the garage, I actually have space for another small car like a 7. I've got a 12 hour drive up to north of Crock's neck of the woods tomorrow, so most likely will miss the end of the auction, since I've already been outbid, it's just not meant to be mine. Bill S.

You can also use an industrial grade velcro if you do not want to screw them down, at least for the front where the bar is. You will still need to radius around the bolt holes for the shoulder belts, not difficult to do, just take it all slowly and you'll been just fine. Bill S.

That is correct, there is an aluminum bar located within the front of the boot cover as a stiffener. Could you uses snaps like you see to hold them to the body, I do not see why not, but they will not be a weather tight seal either at that point in time as the boot cover does not overlap towards the rear bulkhead/firewall area. Not in the self built cars, not on the factory built cars, both for a reason.The shoulder harness bolts loosen so the bar and the finish material can slide under the spacer for them. They can then be tightened to hold the bar and material tight as well, if you want to remove the mount spacer so they do not swivel like I have them. Bill S

Here are two pics I took this AM after a nice 30 mile ride in the sun. In picture number 2, the right shoulder bolt mount leather needs to be re-stretched-glued again, noticed that this AM. Oh well, not difficult to remove, just take the 5 stud screws out and loosen the 2 bolts holding the should harnesses to the chassis. Any questions, just let me know. Bill S.

Upper right hand corner, just below the price, you should see a green "contact seller" button. Click it and you'll need to fill out all of the spaces (name, number, city, state, email, etc) and then you can type a message to the seller and hit submit. If you do not, it may be the security settings in your browser/computer.

The tonneau cover comes without the hardware installed. The male fasteners get installed on the body first, then the female fasteners get installed in the tonneau cover to fit. Due to the way the fasteners are produced, you cannot install the female parts on the body unless you drill holes in them and install them upside down. Bill S.