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The easiest way to transport your Caterham


Brightonuk

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As the nearest track to me is over 60 miles away and god forbid something happens at the track trailering the car is the best way to insure I will get the car back home.

I tried a regular steel trailer with a heavy lift gate and it was a pain to handle, tow, load and unload.

 

The solution is the Aluma Tilt Bed super light easy to load and unload (after a bit of practice) I did install a Fulton 3rd wheel upgrade which is a must do for ease of handling, but now I can easily move the trailer single handed.

 

 if you are looking for a trailer check out the Aluma 6812 the car fits perfectly and you can tow it with a Honda Civic (I do).

 

 

 

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Thanks for documenting this Brightonuk.  Last summer I was shopping for a tilt trailer but never pulled the trigger as I wasn't able to confirm what would work (approach angle and weight distribution).

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6 hours ago, Brightonuk said:

You can buy this one next month and I will throw in a Caterham Superlite :classic_wink:

 

My wife might see thru that ruse if I were to return with a trailer that happened to have a car on it, but as a strategy I think it is brilliant.

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  • 1 month later...

An older thread but a mod that may help the new owner or someone else with this trailer. I have a 77x12 Aluma tilt and S1 1957 7. On unloading you will notice the jump when the front wheels pass a balance point. I was concerned the sump or something may take a hit. The other issue is the bed started drifing up when at rest leaving a 5" gap to the ground tilted with no car.. I suspect some gas leak. My solution was to change the gas spring from a 200# to 250#. I worked with Alegis (gas spring manuf) and the price was under $20. The stronger spring has the same 10" stroke but is about 1 inch longer. So Yyou will need to drill two new mounting holes to let the new spring close. Also order new spring mounts, still 5/6-18 threads but 1/2" dis balls vs the 3/8 on OEM. $3. Also note Alegis told me the gas spring seal goes down not up as installed by Aluma. When up the seal dries out more quickly.

 

I made other mods and will post some pictures. Hand winch (car not under power), integrated ratchet straps, rock guard, tool box, etc.

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I have a 6810 Aluma, non-tilting, with ramps I bought from Tractor Supply. Car fits perfectly, rides great, and total weight is right around the 1750 tow capacity of our Rav-4 Hybrid. Ramps fold in half and travel in the vehicle. I was concerned about how the tilt was going to work, and it would have put me over my tow weight limit. I did not have to make any modifications to the trailer.

Edited by BlueBDA
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Fastg - I will take pictures and detail the mods. Stay tuned. BlueBDA -  I may have gone your route if I "started over". The 7's nose misses, but our 911 would require ramps for skirt clearance. But that's a daily and no need to tow. Driving up the ramp in the 7 was spooky at first especially with the Tilton race clutch. 

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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I just tow mine with a homemade car dolly. The 7 on a dolly is light enough to not need trailer brakes anyway, at least with my LR Disco. I do like SENC's idea, the Disco would look pretty cool going down the road with the 7 on the roof!

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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  • 5 months later...

@ProfGriff - what Discovery do you have?  I just picked up an 07 LR3 as a tow vehicle and partial DD.  This has about 130k miles (almost 100k fewer than the 2010 F250 it will replace) and, hopefully, is nearing the bottom of its depreciation cycle.  Will need to do a little work on it, but fortunately there is an active owner network and you can still do a good bit of the work on these yourself - and we have a solid local independent specialist for those things I can't do.  Any tips or things to look out for?

IMG_20220921_101028.thumb.jpg.db2b665e4cf6c4bebc1dda6c5b6dec6a.jpg

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@SENC I have a 98 Disco1 that I rescued from a barn after it had been sitting for 8 years. It needed some major rust repair on the frame, floor, and inner fenders, as well as electrical repairs mostly due to corroded connectors and bad previous "repairs". I doubt that that is of any concern with your LR3 since you are in NC. Here on the right coast of Canuckistan, everything rusts. Other than that, I can't really help you, as I know basically zilch about LR3s. I will say that once I got the Disco sorted, it's been rock solid reliable. It just turned 100K miles. I tow my 7 on a car dolly with it.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

 

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