Rosteri Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 I was out for a drive last night and the engine suddenly shut down with a low oil pressure warning. After a check I tried a re-start, nice idle, no noises but also no oil pressure. So I ordered a ”taxi” back home: The engine log shows a clutched shift from 3rd to 4th gear, and right after the oil pressure starts to go down and the oil pressure protection function then kills the engine. Back at the garage I checked the oil pressure with a cordless drill and everything was back to normal... My sensor is a Variohm type (but not an original) and apparently these knock-offs are no good, when mounted directly to the block. No Variohms in stock anywhere near, so I guess I’ll switch to a modern Bosch sensor (0261230340). I’m not very excited of a remote connection to the block, let’s see how I’m going to do it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 Do you think it is just a sensor issue? Its such a new engine and (I assume) new sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted June 5, 2022 Author Share Posted June 5, 2022 At the moment I do believe it is just a sensor issue. The oil levels in the dry sump were normal, so suddenly sucking air doesn't seem likely, also if it was something engine internal related, then it would not repair itself. I will also measure the wires, when I change the loom connector for the new Bosch sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 (edited) Datasheet for 0261230340: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_70496907_Pressure_Sensor_Combined_PST-F_1.pdf I designed and made a 90 degree Banjo. The sensor is M10x1 and the Millington oil port is M12x1.75: Bosch on top, Variohm/clone that failed in the middle and old style Bosch below: It took me a while to figure out how the new Bosch connector works. The installation from below the car: Edited June 8, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlB Posted June 9, 2022 Share Posted June 9, 2022 The variable resistance sensor shown in the same picture with the Bosch sensor are known to fail when mounted directly to a 4-cylinder engine block. I have seen them fail electrically and start to leak on small formula cars. Thank you for the information on the Bosch sensor. I wish I could find a piezoelectric sensor in 0 to 10 OHMs. I want to compliment you on your car and your fabrication skills. I wish I was as talented. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted July 11, 2022 Author Share Posted July 11, 2022 (edited) Thanks CarlB! The car works nicely and is a blast on track, so I suppose it is time to try and finalise the build. I still have four items on my mind: 1) Extra head support for the Tillet seats. I have the parts Caterham supplied with the roll cage and... they just don't make any sense. I'll try to fabricate something decent. 2) Safety fuel cell 3) Integrated fire extinguisher system 4) Less noise When I started this car I repaired my old tank and integrated a surge tank into it (basically copied the Nuke Performance CFC unit), so when I started looking at the fuel cell options for Caterhams they all seemed like a step backward from my current setup with external pumps etc. Nuke has collaborated with Pyrotect and this combo looked really nice: https://www.nukeperformance.com/product.html/pyrotect-pyrocell-elite It would be super easy to replace, as I can re-use my in-tank fuel pumps and all electrics and plumbing is 1:1. But the standard tank sizes won't fit, so I sketched up a Caterham tank that would work with the Nuke CFC ATL unit (15 mm higher than standard Ford/Vauxhall tank). Pyrotect responded super fast and their price for my custom tank was very reasonable -> order placed! caterham_tank_v2.pdf Then regarding the noise I ordered a new 750 mm long Raceco titanium silencer with a central 70 mm center inlet, which hopefully should do the trick. Edited July 11, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted July 11, 2022 Author Share Posted July 11, 2022 And a short video with some sequential action… IMG_6137.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 On 9/11/2021 at 1:52 PM, Rosteri said: They barely fit into the car, I barely fit into the Tilletts... I feel the same with the Sport Turbo seats from Westfield! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted July 27, 2022 Author Share Posted July 27, 2022 (edited) The seats definitely still keep me in check ref calorie intake! But I have had no issues or pain points even after a few hours driving without a break, even though they feel very tight every time I slide in. Edited July 29, 2022 by Rosteri 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted July 29, 2022 Author Share Posted July 29, 2022 Compared to an Elise the rear end in my seven feels much too lively under hard braking, so let’s see if a proportioning valve will sort it out. The lever is huge compared to the cockpit… it will be fun to find a good location for it. Rear pads are standard Delphi, front DS3000 inside ”James Whiting” 4pot Alcons and standard discs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 Please document valve installation - I have one I may install, wondering what the best/easiest way is, what fittings I need etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlB Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 I want to see how you stiffen the seats. I considered foaming behind the seats. Other than making a mess, that didn't stiffen the head rest. I got some Tillet FIA legal seats. They were a very tight fit and I had to remove some of the trim to get them to fit, but they are very stiff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 Sure, I’ll document both. I couldn’t find a good location for the lever type bias valve, so I switched to the knob version and made a simple bracket for it from some leftover alu, that gets bolted to the plate where the wiper system usually is. The angle of the knob matches now the steering wheel, which was a bit more pleasing to the eye than when aligned with the panel, as the knob is rather large. I had prepared for the connection when I made my brake lines last year and the valve will be simply connected in place of the short 90 deg hardline of the rear brake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted August 3, 2022 Author Share Posted August 3, 2022 A small extra touch… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 And the new hoses are done, connected and the systen is filled with brake fluid. A track test might be possible in the upcoming week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MXM Posted August 19, 2022 Share Posted August 19, 2022 Fantastic effort! I'm in a process of rebuilding my own car right now, and although the end goal is different (mostly road focused, and generally low-tech), I will probably change my approach to a few things after reading this thread. How do you like the Go-Race QR so far? I'm have a lifeline, and I'm not a fan of how loose it gets over time. Go-Race also has option of passing electrical connections through QR, have you considered that instead of the Blinkstop? I'm also particularly inspired by the use of motogadget as a PDM, but I haven't yet convinced myself that this is what I want for my build. Another is the dry sump tank. I've seen them done in front of the footwell, but usually on the passenger side, and with the footwell shortened! I did not imagine it would be possible on the driver's side, and with exhaust headers on the same side! What is the volume you managed to achieve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted August 22, 2022 Author Share Posted August 22, 2022 Hi MXM! The Go-Race QR has been without issues, but I really don't use it much. Blinkstop has also worked without issues so far. I think I would have chosen the connector, if it would have been available when I made my choices. The Motogadget blue unit has been really nice, I think it is best value for money compared to any other part on the car. However, if you have a lot of extra chassis electronics, then there might not be enough switched outputs. From a power perspective the aux is pretty good, apart from the fuel pumps and fan it powers everything for me, including my air compressor for the sequential. I don't think my drysump location is possible with a standard exhaust, but with my thru-bonnet setup it is fine. The total oil capacity is somewhere between 6-7 litres, and I believe around 5 litres of that resides in the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted August 24, 2022 Author Share Posted August 24, 2022 The Raceco center inlet silencer arrived - it is huge compared to the old one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 It’s really nice to see your wideband O2 sensor mounted vertically (as intended). I know that alternative mounting angles can lead to failure. Do you simply pass the wires underneath the chassis and connect the plugs in the engine bay? I had considered passing the wires through a grommet in the side skin, but I don’t think the plug on the sensor end can/should be removed. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted August 25, 2022 Author Share Posted August 25, 2022 Yes, it is simply routed underneath the chassis rail and secured with a zip tie to the first chassis tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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