My 1984 Xflow Caterham S3 Refresh

[NSXguy]

Hi guys, 

I'm finally getting around to taking on the refresh of my 1600 xflow powered Cat. I got this car a little over a year ago and really enjoyed driving it last year but in so doing, i discovered that there were some things on the car that need sorting so i started thinking of taking it apart (as i do with most new car toys i get) to establish my ownership baseline and build on from there. Well, it's winter now and while i have a few projects i'm doing on the Cossie, i have some free time to get on with this refresh so i can enjoy some worry free driving this season and maybe even attack some autocross or join some of you at NJMP in the fall :-)

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So with that said i'll be taking the car mostly apart, doing some upgrades, addressing maintenance items, going over the chassis members to make sure all is structurally good and then cleaning/painting said members. 

*

I will use this thread to update my progress, solicit and receive feedback on ideas and share ideas/learn from others... So here goes. 

 

First, Here is a photo of the car as she sat prior to the start of the refresh. exterior wise i don't anticipate changing much. She sits on 14" panasport minilites with yokohama tires that are old but we'll be swapping for some toyos this season. 

 

 

WEEK 1 :

So this week is not over yet but we accomplished a few things:

 

-Interior seats and carpet have been stripped out (The panels over the outer chassis members will remain). Contemplating if i want to remove scuttle, but will most likely have to as i will need it off for sorting, rewiring the car. lots of loose wires, cut ends and dodgy connectors there!

 

 

-trunk has been stripped out (removed and inspected fuel tank). Lots of 30+year old dust built up there! 

I plan to add some anchors for harnesses, however i have noticed that most Caterhams have a square stock or flat cross brace at the top of the seat back (which makes it easier to add said anchors). Many parts of the chassis in my car is round stock including this cross brace so i need to decide what to do about this. May cut and weld in square stock or drill through and reinforce with bracing... more to come on that.  

 

 

-removed engine and trans today. Plan to relocate the radiator forward to under the nose cone area. Still deciding which rad to use. I have a brand new rad that was supplied with a 1984 build but not sure if i want to run that. Thinking of a new aluminum rad instead. Also will be installing header tank. 

 

Before                                                                                                                                              After engine and trans removal

    

 

 

This is where i am today. Taking stock of the parts i have and still learning the platform:

 

Engine:

Was rebuilt and runs strong but carbs need dialing in. some oil leaks under carbs (cyl 1 and 2) and a few other minor leaks but other wise all good. front and rear main seals look fresh but will will replace regardless. I have a lot of consumables i purchased from Chris at redline but is there another source for crossflow parts in the states?

 

    

 

 Trans (4speed Ford):

 

In overall good shape. Will change fluids. Need to make sense of he clutch slave cylinder used here. Also the clutch fork was not connected at the retaining clip in bell housing and not connected to throw out bearing...very strange and explains why clutch actuation was dodgy... Clutch itself appears fairly new and will likely be reused. Any help positively ID'ing this trans?

 

     

 

 

Does anyone know if / where i can replacements of these shifter bushes on the trans?

 

 

 

 

Edited January 28, 2022 by NSXguy
Added photos

[JohnCh]

What a great project!  The transmission looks like it could be the Ford Type 2 as shown here in the Burton's catalog.  Might be a starting point to pursue if no one knows definitively.  

 

As for crossflow parts resources, RD enterprises and Dave Bean both carry some parts and are generally extremely helpful.  I'm sure there are others who will chime in with more options.

 

-John

[NSXguy]

17 minutes ago, JohnCh said:

What a great project!  The transmission looks like it could be the Ford Type 2 as shown here in the Burton's catalog.  Might be a starting point to pursue if no one knows definitively.  

 

As for crossflow parts resources, RD enterprises and Dave Bean both carry some parts and are generally extremely helpful.  I'm sure there are others who will chime in with more options.

 

-John

 

Thanks! why didnt i think to check Burton! i order alot from them already for my other cars. I just confirmed with Burton, that it is a Type 2 box, and Anthony who i spoke with promptly suggested that i consider changing it out if i plan to do any sort of hard driving! 

[JohnCh]

Excuse to install a 5 speed?

 

-John

[Sean]

The goal is to make your 7 better, and changing the gearbox from a Type 2 to a Type 9 is... 7 better.

[NSXguy]

4 hours ago, JohnCh said:

Excuse to install a 5 speed?

 

-John

Oh yes. i've already located 2 Type 9s. Just researching now as to what is involved with the conversion. At the least, I understand the 1st gear ratio is not ideal for caterham and the driveshaft needs to be modified. 

[NSXguy]

1 hour ago, Sean said:

The goal is to make your 7 better, and changing the gearbox from a Type 2 to a Type 9 is... 7 better.

Right on!

[JohnCh]

If you really want to upgrade, there are new gearsets available with much better ratios.  I have BGH converted Type-9 with a real first gear.  Lots of good information on the Type-9 in the Downloads section here:

 

https://usa7s.net/ips/files/category/31-gearbox/

 

-John

[IamScotticus]

On T9s  know there is a 2.8 V6 version that will require a 1" back spacer and the input tip shortened about 10mm. 

Fewer gear kits available for V6 version.

T-9 mount needs to be elevated on a 9/16" spacer.

Also know the tailhousing may not accept a speefo cable, some were electronic sender only.

There is a shifter extension sold By Mattlewisracing and others that will put the shifter where it belongs,  but it may not work on the V6.

Bone up on this b4 buying.

Edited February 1, 2022 by IamScotticus

[IamScotticus]

delete

Edited February 7, 2022 by IamScotticus
delete

[7Westfield]

18 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

Maybe someone knows the answer to this.

I have a 2.8 V6 T9 transmission with a 7" input shaft. Does anyone know what 7" bellhousing has a cut out for the layshaft bearing??

mine met up with a hole saw...

that's not the bearing, it's the front part of a 2 piece shaft, identifies it as later production

Edited February 2, 2022 by 7Westfield

[NSXguy]

So i've spoken to a number of folks in the past couple of days and i think i will follow through with my current plan for a straight forward refresh, retaining my type-2 box and enjoy the car this season with the current setup. The trans has been handling the tq without issue, so i'll concentrate on learning about this platform from taking it apart and putting it all together, then some more from driving it through the season. At the end of this year i will decide if the best path is to keep it as is, Progress with modifying or if the track bug really bites, consider selling to upgrade to a newer chassis as better base for future mods... 

 

Also for anyone who has an instagram account- My username is Mr_Afropreneur.  I have and will be uploading frequent in depth video updates on IG stories of the refresh. 

 

That said, Made some progress today disassembling the front end ( lots of consumables need replacing, bushes etc). Will also be refinishing hardware.

 

 

Front end disassembled, less lower control arms:

 

. 

Question- Does anyone know what two perpendicular brackets coming off the upper and lower front chassis rails are/were for?

 

Having a royal pain in the rear getting the lower control arms off the chassis and the upper control arm off the hub...have thrown the book at them but they wont come off.  Any tricks to this? it shouldn't be this hard to get off. The bolt in the back appears to be seized on the bushing on both driver and passenger side, but i wonder if i can get the whole arm off even if i got those bolts out, since there's not enough play in front of the rear section of the arm (to the square stock chassis member), to slide the front section of the arm off it's threaded sleeve... hope this all makes sense. it essence, it appears to be wedged in.  

 

The good news is that the bushes on the lower arms are in very good shape and the arms move freely, so worst case, i can keep them on the car for the refresh. It would definitely be easier to get them coated/painted off the car but nothing some careful masking wont do. 

 

Lower arms :

 

          

 

Upper arms: Upper control arm is very tight as well wher the ball joint fits the hub. I've sprayed PB blaster, let it soak and gone at it with a mallet but they wont come off. I almost suspect these may be original pieces and have never been off. 

 

 

 

Coilover assembly - Appear to be cosmetically beat but still in good working order without leaks. Ride height and dampening adjustable-  Part number Spax G775. What is the good word on these? Would they have been original or upgraded units. I suspect they will be good enough to run after cosmetic refresh. 

 

.        

 

 

Next up this week:

Removal of the rear suspension items and then the wiring harness.... Stay tuned.

 

 

Edited February 2, 2022 by NSXguy

[7Westfield]

Re. upper arms

the best way I've found to remove a ball joint/tie rod end is to whack it with a dead blow hammer.

in your pic above, you want to hit it down on the end of the upright  what you'll do is compress the sides of the tapered hole just a bit, and it will squirt the stud out.

don't worry about distorting the hole, the stud being inside will prevent that

leave the nut on, in case you miss

 

I'm assuming the lower arms have want they call a silentbloc or metalastic bushing in them. This is an inner and outer steel sleeve with rubber molded between them. Bolt thru center and outside presses into end of arm. For the bolts stuck in the bushing, your only choice may be to put a big bar on the bolt, and just rip the rubber center out.

For replacements, call Eileen @ GMT Racing, she can send you a list of the sizes they stock  -about 20  -in your neighborhood, and good folks

[JohnCh]

Have you tried this style of ball joint separator?  I used this one from HF on a particularly stubborn set of front ball joints on a 993.  I cranked it down really hard on the first one until I feared something would break, then let it sit in place while I prayed to various deities.  After about a minute, there was an unholy bang and the ball joint popped out.  The tool created enough force on the other ball joint that it actually bent the threaded end which then had to be removed with a cutoff wheel.  

 

 

 

 

-John

[Pokey]

Assuming you aren't going to reuse the ball joints, then I'd try a pickle fork.  And if you don't care about destroying paint or bushings, then heat may be the answer for the upper control arms.

 

Regarding the coilovers, I'd go ahead and have them rebuilt.  Springs are probably fine but imagine some oil loss and that which remains is probably due for a change.  If I'm wrong and they are actually gas units, then I'd assume that gas has escaped.

[toldfield]

I used Kroil from Kano Labs.  It has never let me down.

[NSXguy]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I gave a go again at the lower arm and upper arm ball joint but they didnt budge. I have some other ideas after getting my hands on the assembly manual for a 1988 caterham S3 (same as mine) so will report back when (not if) i get them out. I just hope i can still purchase the bushes and ball joints after i get them off.

 

So earlier this evening. I got the rear end off! after reading Mike (Croc's) thread about the bushes on the rear A-Frame, i was eager to check mine out as well...Take a look! 

Question: is the a readily available (somewhat direct swap) LSD option for the live axle? Just out of curiosity and for my personal edification i will check out quaife. 

 

.         

 

 

A Nice empty rear end! Disassembly of wiring happens next! 

 

[IamScotticus]

10 hours ago, NSXguy said:

So i've spoken to a number of folks in the past couple of days and i think i will follow through with my current plan for a straight forward refresh, retaining my type-2 box and enjoy the car this season with the current setup. The trans has been handling the tq without issue, so i'll concentrate on learning about this platform from taking it apart and putting it all together, then some more from driving it through the season. At the end of this year i will decide if the best path is to keep it as is, Progress with modifying or if the track bug really bites, consider selling to upgrade to a newer chassis as better base for future mods... 

 

Also for anyone who has an instagram account- My username is Mr_Afropreneur.  I have and will be uploading frequent in depth video updates on IG stories of the refresh. 

 

That said, Made some progress today disassembling the front end ( lots of consumables need replacing, bushes etc). Will also be refinishing hardware.

 

 

Front end disassembled, less lower control arms:

 

. 

Question- Does anyone know what two perpendicular brackets coming off the upper and lower front chassis rails are/were for?

 

Having a royal pain in the rear getting the lower control arms off the chassis and the upper control arm off the hub...have thrown the book at them but they wont come off.  Any tricks to this? it shouldn't be this hard to get off. The bolt in the back appears to be seized on the bushing on both driver and passenger side, but i wonder if i can get the whole arm off even if i got those bolts out, since there's not enough play in front of the rear section of the arm (to the square stock chassis member), to slide the front section of the arm off it's threaded sleeve... hope this all makes sense. it essence, it appears to be wedged in.  

 

The good news is that the bushes on the lower arms are in very good shape and the arms move freely, so worst case, i can keep them on the car for the refresh. It would definitely be easier to get them coated/painted off the car but nothing some careful masking wont do. 

 

Lower arms :

 

          

 

Upper arms: Upper control arm is very tight as well wher the ball joint fits the hub. I've sprayed PB blaster, let it soak and gone at it with a mallet but they wont come off. I almost suspect these may be original pieces and have never been off. 

 

 

 

Coilover assembly - Appear to be cosmetically beat but still in good working order without leaks. Ride height and dampening adjustable-  Part number Spax G775. What is the good word on these? Would they have been original or upgraded units. I suspect they will be good enough to run after cosmetic refresh. 

 

.        

 

 

Next up this week:

Removal of the rear suspension items and then the wiring harness.... Stay tuned.

 

 

 I have a set of those and 305 EY rears I bought in a garage raid.  Well used, of course.  And G775s on my 96 Cat and Spax on the rear.  All well used rusty and grimey.  The rears did come with blue Hyperos.

[NSXguy]

7 hours ago, Pokey said:

Assuming you aren't going to reuse the ball joints, then I'd try a pickle fork.  And if you don't care about destroying paint or bushings, then heat may be the answer for the upper control arms.

 

Regarding the coilovers, I'd go ahead and have them rebuilt.  Springs are probably fine but imagine some oil loss and that which remains is probably due for a change.  If I'm wrong and they are actually gas units, then I'd assume that gas has escaped.

 

@Pokey Any leads/ideas on where to get a rebuilt done? I remember a few years ago, i asked all the race shops around me about rebuilding the bilstein shocks on my Cossie coilovers and none were willing to take it on. I looked online and the pricing for new units doesn't seem too bad for all four corners, even with UK shipping; will have to compare that with rebuild cost. 

Edited February 3, 2022 by NSXguy

[7Westfield]

first, you need to know if your shocks are rebuildable at all. Can't tell from the pics. Do they have a top that can be removed, or just a welded cap?

I checked into it a few years back, mine were not serviceable, but new ones weren't much more than rebuild would have been. I called Spax on Monday, had them Thursday.

I believe Spax has a deal plan for the Westfield club, you'd think they do Cat too.