420R in Virginia

[Croc]

5 hours ago, sainthoo said:

It’s an immobilzer, gonna go ahead and put that on the key ring.

 

Most dealers usually tie wrap it to the steering column near where the sensor lives.  That way you only have to carry the key around.  Given US owners do not live in the crime ridden UK where an immobilizer is an insurance requirement, it sort of is redundant owners here.  If you have an electrical cut off switch then that immobilizes the car pretty effectively and you should always take that with you if leaving the car alone for any stretch.  

[MV8]

Nice job on the wheel hub and exhaust port. To clean up the edge, try a rotary file or a large sanding drum to fit a drill.

A good way to check the wheel centering is with the front wheels of the ground, spin the wheel from lock to lock watching the center or a spot on the rim. I think you are so close that any off centering won't be noticeable.

 

[DanM]

9 hours ago, sainthoo said:

That seems strange to me- I’ll keep it with the key, so it can’t be stolen.

You only put it in the slot when your driving. Apparently it took away the fumbling!

[sainthoo]

Little help please- I have fuel, but I do not have spark.

 

I know the engine has ground. There is no spark to coils.

 

Crank sensor appears unmolested and plugged in.

 

ideas?

[fastg]

How do you know you have fuel? Check the power supply to the coil, The coils should receive a 12volt constant power, they are fired by being grounded by the ECU, injectors work the same way. So just because you can hear the fuel pump running does not mean you have fuel. 

 

Graham 

[sainthoo]

I have 12V to injectors.

I have zero power to coils.

[MV8]

The immobilizer may be an ignition disabler. Read your owners manual. Generally, the red led should not be flashing if it will allow you start the engine.

[sainthoo]

Immobilzer disables starter- won’t crank.

 

Messed with engine loom- think there was a loose ground as we got good voltage to the loom. Now have good spark shorting out to fuel rail. 
 

Now sorting out fuel delivery- put in 2.1 gallons. Going to add more, pull off fuel line to fuel rail.

 

Confession- tried a tiny squirt of starter fluid after getting voltage to coils- fired up for <1s.

[KnifeySpoony]

I cycled the ignition like 5-10 times (can't remember) to get the fuel to prime all the way to the rail. You can actually hear it as it fills. Be careful if you disconnect the line from the rail - if the rail is full, it holds a seemingly endless amount of fuel. Be ready to catch it all....

[jimmylukeii]

1 hour ago, sainthoo said:

Immobilzer disables starter- won’t crank.

 

Messed with engine loom- think there was a loose ground as we got good voltage to the loom. Now have good spark shorting out to fuel rail. 
 

Now sorting out fuel delivery- put in 2.1 gallons. Going to add more, pull off fuel line to fuel rail.

 

Confession- tried a tiny squirt of starter fluid after getting voltage to coils- fired up for <1s.

I put in 5 gallons at the suggestion of a forum or blog somewhere.  The issue (I believe) was that cars were having trouble starting, or would start then die.  More fuel seemed to solve the problem.

[sainthoo]

Bought a fuel rail release- sprayed in the face with gas. No issue with fuel supply as it turns out (2.1 gallons is plenty!).

 

For no apparent reason car fired and ran rough after much consternation. Hand of God stuff - just started.

 

Cannot seem to get it running right. Have the TPS as close to 1.23V as I can get it- that is one very, very sensitive adjustment!

 

Will attach OBD in AM, go from there.

 

Things I know at this point:

1) runs rough

2) RPM gauge is off- reads constant 400 at idle (rough idle)

3) fuel gauge is way off. Added another 2.5 gallons just now, (4+ gallons in an 11+ gallon tank). Gauge reads about 1/8.

[sainthoo]

It ran like a kitten for about 5 seconds:

 

Purring, if only briefly:

 

 

[KnifeySpoony]

1. That idle sounds right - what happens after that?

2. check the dipswitches on your tach  - CC seems unable to set them properly

3. TADTS

 

[sainthoo]

1 hour ago, KnifeySpoony said:

1. That idle sounds right - what happens after that?

2. check the dipswitches on your tach  - CC seems unable to set them properly

3. TADTS

 

Please assume I am the dumbest person you have ever met…

”dipswitches” you say?

TADTS you say?

 

It surges constantly at the moment- normal, little RPM increase, then back to normal.

[KnifeySpoony]

TADTS stands for "they all do that, sir"

 

[KnifeySpoony]

View of switches under grommet

[Austin David]

The ODB reader will help.  My idle was low on first crank, and the tach was way wrong.  I read the manual and found a switch configuration that works, eventually I "should" get the ECU flashed correctly, apparently.  For now it's right.

 

https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13594-360s-in-charlestonish/?do=findComment&comment=125828

 

With an independent signal from the ECU (not the tach) you can set your idle correctly, and deal with the tach later.  Like when everything else is correct.

 

The fuel gauge seems very pessimistic, and mileage (mine at least, during break in) is absurdly high.  Below 1/4 it will maybe take 5 gals, and I believe capacity is near 10?   In the garage (as you are) I basically kept the needle where I could see it at all.  The first 2g was enough, then added more as I went around dealing with various coolant issues.

Edited May 18, 2022 by Austin David

[Croc]

Your experience with the fuel gauge was like mine for the first 8 years of the car's life.  When I was on reserve marker on the gauge then I would be a little over half full.  S3 chassis is 10 gallons.  SV is 12 gallons.

 

The fuel gauge is informed by the sender and the float arm which are located in tank.  Solution is a bit hit or miss but pull the intank fuel pump out, bend float arm on a gut feel basis and try again.  Thats how I fixed mine.   Then promptly forgot the next track day and ran it dry - oops.  

[MV8]

You can get close with one try. With the tank drained, if you bend the arm to ensure the float contacts the tank bottom, note the level indicated (showing fuel but tank empty), pull it out, connect the wires and raise the arm to show the same fuel level, then measure the distance from the flange to the float. Tweak the arm to put the float at a 1/4 inch less than the same distance with the arm fully extended/dropped on the sender. Bend the arm close to the hinge point at an existing bend instead of near the float. There will always be some residual (reserve) fuel in the tank after empty is shown so you can make it to the next gas station.

Classic motorcycles usually don't have fuel gauges but a reserve position on the fuel petcock. If it started coughing/starving for fuel, you'd just reach down and switch to reserve then head for the gas station.

[Austin David]

That's an interesting idea.  Would it be reasonable for me to drain the tank down to an "OH NO" minimum like 2g, then set the float to bounce on E at that level?  That way I would know very well how much is left in there.  

 

I have MC experience and that petcock / reserve "tank" option is gold.  They're also on carbs so there's the first ride trick of running it bone dry and checking mileage, while carrying a can, then never driving that far.  I don't really want to run my EFI motor dry if I can avoid it, and I'm not quite ready to play chicken with the fuel level in my new toy.  So far (3 fill-ups in, all at ~ 5g) mileage seems consistent.  Still not super confident on that fuel gauge, but I've got at least 2 fillups before I'm back home so ....

 

ps: Good Luck sainthoo, sorry for highjacking your thread    I know how nerve-wracking the first crank can be...  IMO get the idle set (TB screw) to like 1200 RPM, then deal with oil and coolant verification at temperature, then everything else (like brakes and stuff).  The tach is probably the least important gauge, until you get your license plate / get it on the road or track.  When you're actually putting your foot on the accelerator the RPM starts to matter more, but even then you've got hundreds of miles at low RPM before you really really start having to care.