SK400 Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 Greetings everyone. It’s been a real while since I’ve written on this forum. About 1.5 years ago, I took my car to autobahn country club in Chicago and unfortunately blew my transmission. After a good 10 yrs of reliable service, the lay shaft of my 6 speed caterham transmission decided to seize and let go, jamming the entire powertrain. I guess my new r500 engine was a bit too much for it. So… it was time and the occasion to refresh the entire car, and finally pulled the trigger on a brand new Sadev sequential gearbox to “finish the job”. The car is now in pieces. Engine is out for some precautionary TLC, differential is out for LSD refresh and final drive ratio change (another project on its own), I’m finally installing the uprated rear AP racing brakes, new dedion tube, new a frame, new bearings front rear etc etc. And I have the gearbox finally after a decent wait. I received the loom to connect the sadev to the ECU and the rest of the car and I admit, I could not find anything online to figure out what wire is what. Attached is a picture of the loom (and the gearbox and the child labor I exploit to work on the car). Any help discerning what goes where and what wire is what would be very helpful. I’ve been guessing and trying to use logic but I could use a bit of expert and friendly advice. thanks in advance. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 subbed, as I feel this upgrade is in future some day 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 Whomever you purchased the trans from should have provided documentation on service and the loom. I'm guessing Mooresville, NC? I expect there to be one or two pins on the existing reverse switch on the cat six speed. If two, I expect one pin of the connector is grounded through the harness. Verify. On the new sadev harness, using a meter set to ohms, probe from the reverse light switch connector to each wire until you find near zero resistance. Verify with the documentation you will receive from the Sadev Dealer. Let me know what you find (#pins old switch, #pins new switch, grounding, color code to rev sw existing harness, color code to rev sw of new sadev harness). You could also leave the harness off for now and have no gear position or automatic reverse lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 8 hours ago, SK400 said: It’s been a real while since I’ve written on this forum. In true form you always turn up out of the blue looking immaculate with a helmet of freshly blow dried salt and pepper hair. Still matching your clothing colors in an assemble of red? NJMP continues to use your glamour photos in its marketing materials. They want you back in person in 2025 to update the beauty catalog. Will we see you? 8 hours ago, SK400 said: .... and final drive ratio change I think you need to tell us your ratio choices for each gear plus the final drive. Did you model it with a spreadsheet to ensure suitable rev drops with top speed optimisation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SK400 Posted December 6 Author Share Posted December 6 True to form Croc. Missed your salt and pepper! Regarding ratios, I ended up choosing the long Sadev ratio (19x22) transfer gear to give me a few more options and use a bit more the engine torque. I always thought that my 6 speed caterham transmission was a bit too short with 6th speed 1:1 ratio, especially with the new r500 engine that has a bit more torque. I think the 6 speed was best suited for the original zetec r500 not the duratec and as a result, never used 2nd and very rarely 3rd on tracks, spending quick a bit of time changing between gears. With that said, I thought that keeping my original final drive of 3.64 would be much too long for my engine and all the tracks I run inclusive of Gingerman, Mid Ohio, limerock and even the two NJMP tracks. So I opted to change my final drive to 3.91, which I think will strike the perfect balance for my engine, driving style and tracks. Please note that if I had more torque (like that of my red caterham with white stripes nemesis who is on his 5th engine in 2 yrs with a lot more stroke and hence torque than me to compensate for his lack of momentum he carries in corners…) I would have kept the 3.64 ratio. attached are the model output for the 3.64 and 3.91 ratios. In short the 3.91 along with the chosen Sadev ratios will be 10 to 15 percent longer than what I had, which feels right. Going the a 4.1 final drive ratio would bring it in line with my current caterham 6 speed setup. Regarding the wiring loom that I procured from caterham, I have several questions - if the yellow and black wire and connector is for the reverse gear, then why do we have an ECU pin for this function? Not sure why the ECU needs to know I’m selecting reverse but I’m sure I’m missing something important - is the connector with black and tallow for reverse of flat shift input? - the caterham connector is if course different than the connector from the Sadev so need to cut and modify. Okay - there are two leads with flat male terminals: one with green wire and the other with the same yellow and black wire. Where do these wires connect to? The reverse light circuit or something else completely? - does the loom and gear indicator get the power from the ECU pin? Pardon my obvious lack of knowledge on these electrical spaghettis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sf4018 Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 What ECU do you have? For a MBE9A4 ECU, pin 16 is an output from the ECU, pins 19 and 27 are programmable inputs to the ECU (shift up/down?). Guessing G9/BY10 is the reverse switch, like MV8 says put it in reverse and see what happens to the ohms across those wires. That would leave getting power from the left connector I suppose. No idea what the 5 wires are for other than power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SK400 Posted December 6 Author Share Posted December 6 Sf4018 Yes. My ecu is an MBE9a4 from SBD. Following your logic, it seems that the connector on top of the diagram must be for flat shift signal to ECU. The left connector is for the Shiftec gear indicator. And the flat male BY10 and G9 connectors are for reverse switch. However if that the case, what should I do with the current reverse switch connectors? Splice them with BY10 and G10 to close the circuit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sf4018 Posted December 7 Share Posted December 7 @SK400The chassis harness has these 2 connectors for the reverse switch which used to connect to the GB on the RHS... Assuming BY10/G9 is in fact the reverse signal and not power wire up BY10/G9 to these (direction is not important). The 12V comes from G73 for the reverse light. You'll have to snip off the weird connectors for GN137/G73 and put on some Deutsch or whatever. Steve from SBD will probably know about the ECU pin function. No idea for the rest. Is this the Caterham kit 6 SPEED SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX KIT - Caterham Parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 7 Share Posted December 7 11 hours ago, sf4018 said: Is this the Caterham kit 6 SPEED SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX KIT - Caterham Parts? By description on that page, its the 2014 year R300 kit. Too early for the Sadev so I guess it is the old Quaife sequential box that was used in racing at that point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SK400 Posted December 7 Author Share Posted December 7 I did not purchase from Caterham directly and perhaps to a fault and paying the “price of figuring things out now”, I decided to buy directly from the UK Sadev distributor (from which I had outstanding service and decent delivery lead times of 3 to 4 months). question for Yellow7 or Croc: do you know how your respective Sadevs are connected to your cars and ECUs? (Orange monster and CatKong) Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 7 Share Posted December 7 53 minutes ago, SK400 said: question for Yellow7 or Croc: do you know how your respective Sadevs are connected to your cars and ECUs? (Orange monster and CatKong) I have a non-standard ECU solution which will not help you in this instance. Copying @yellowss7 and @Bartman I think Bartman has a sadev in his car he is developing. Have you inquired of the UK dealer you bought from? You only need a generic wiring solution to figure how to make it work on a Caterham. I have ECU pin outs somewhere in my hard disk I need to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 8 Share Posted December 8 @SK400 Seb - I went digging and found the Sadev installation manual for a Miata. Given your hairdressing prowess, is this any help with the section on wiring? SRF-SADEV-MANUAL.docx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SK400 Posted December 10 Author Share Posted December 10 Thanks a ton Croc. Some useful info in the document. I reached out to SBD to see if they had any insights on the loom and pin connectors. I intent to have "flat shift" functionality programmed so had planned to reach out to Steve at SBD anyway to update the map I made with him. I will circle back when I hear from them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SK400 Posted yesterday at 01:18 PM Author Share Posted yesterday at 01:18 PM Alright. So on this topic,, BY10 and G9 should connect to “free” flat connectors under the dash. I haven’t looked at it yet but I remember seeing a few available zipped tied connectors in the past when attempting to mess around under with wires under the dash. These should be power. Special thanks toJosh from Rocky Mountain for this guidance. the BY3 and BY4 connector is for flat shift. Will need to connect the various pins to the ECU and may have to pull existing pins out and replace with those. Left is the rear switch. Need to connect the chassis rear green wires to that switch through a Deutsch plug. BUT … it will take a bit of time to see if all of this is working. After some regular engine TLC, I decided to upgrade my engine to a 2.3l with a short block from Esslinger, (just because I can’t let Simon win too easily .. although some of this forum would be quick to add that he would still win if he rode an e-bicycle around the track against most of us). Will keep current 2.3l ported head and valves (well enough for what I want to do) and probably change cams to match displacement aiming at 285 hp and 200 to 210 ft-lb of torque. With the Sadev, on a. s3 chassis, this will be mental enough and suspect that anything more than this will be fighting for traction …. More to come on this on a different thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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