Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 10 Posted August 10 Ouch. What you see in the photograph is a cheap street tire with 5.5 mm of tread left, inflated (carefully) to the manufacturers 44 psi maximum that blow out last night while sitting in the garage. Notice that the steel belt is now on the outside. I'm glad I was not there. In that confined space it would have been cause for fresh underwear. OK. I need a decent set of street tires. I don't race (I'm not any good at it) and the local constabulary, while generally friendly, take a dim view of my sliding around traffic circles. I do try not to exceed twice the speed limit. I've read several threads on tires, but they seem aimed at either racing or sliding around traffic circles. So, what do you recommend for an economical set that a. is not likely to hydroplane on standing road water, and b. Does not go bang! in the night? Suggestions will be appreciated.
toldfield Posted August 10 Posted August 10 Ouch! Better yet, it's good it didn't happen in one of those traffic circles... Assuming you are running 13" wheels how about this... https://lucasclassictires.com/tires/185-70vr13-pirelli-cinturato-cn36/ 1
MV8 Posted August 10 Posted August 10 What is the date code on the sidewall of the tire? A serviceable tire does not blow at the max psi but why so much higher than the correct pressure for these cars? Tires on limited use cars tend to age out of service rather than wear out. I personally (not a tire shop) have mounted, balanced, and installed dozens of walmart off brand tires on my vehicles over the years without issue. 3
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 11 Author Posted August 11 I've got something to learn, MV8, and thank you for raising the question. I've thought of tire pressure as a tire question, save for low pressure for snow and mud and higher pressure sharpens the handling. So, what is the recommended pressure for a 1962 Series 2? I hope that it is not totally squishy. 1
SENC Posted August 11 Posted August 11 1 hour ago, Timothy Keith-Lucas said: So, what is the recommended pressure for a 1962 Series 2? I hope that it is not totally squishy. Less than half of the max. As I recall the manual says 20 all around. That isn't squishy in the least - these cars are so light they just don't need a lot of pressure. I have the Pirelli Cinturatos referenced above - have really liked them. 2
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 11 Author Posted August 11 Thank you. When the renovation currently in progress is complete, I'll give it a try.
wdb Posted August 11 Posted August 11 (edited) What size wheels are we talking about? Diameter and width pls thx. Edited August 11 by wdb
MV8 Posted August 11 Posted August 11 Specs below but in general, the pressure that provides use of the tread all the way across (even tire wear). Wider tires usually need less air pressure. The greater the pressure and the higher the aspect ratio (side wall width), the greater the grip on the rim lip and less likely a pot hole will result in a blow out from unseating a bead. Tires are like batteries when it comes to age. 1
7Westfield Posted August 11 Posted August 11 just my 2 cents on pressure.... I run 205/60-13 toyo 888's 22 front, 18 rear street and autocross several years ago, I was at a track day--guy with a Cat was having issues, car just wouldn't behave he was running 30+ psi I said drop 10 and try again transformed it 1
IamScotticus Posted August 12 Posted August 12 (edited) On 8/10/2025 at 5:35 PM, MV8 said: why so much higher than the correct pressure for these cars? Ditto.. Or any car for that matter? Correct tire pressure varies by automobile application and recommended tire size based on engineering calculations and a lot of tests. Not what is on the tire. Noted, you did not say the exploded tire is one of your 7 tires, and you did not ask for recommendations for tires for a 7. Edited August 12 by IamScotticus
IamScotticus Posted August 12 Posted August 12 11 hours ago, SENC said: As I recall the manual says 20 all around. That isn't squishy in the least - these cars are so light they just don't need a lot of pressure. Correct. The lower pressure is part of the road holding and ride comfort for what should be a fairly stiff suspension, taking some of the loading off the bushes. You want tires that give before they break traction. Racers prefer 13" for the taller walls.
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 12 Author Posted August 12 I'm learning a lot. Thanks very much. One issue here is that I have lost my basic S2 manual and forgotten about it. A new copy is printing out now. Thanks for making the download available. Yeah, at 240 pounds per wheel plus me, it's not going to take much pressure to create a good patch on the road, and the ride should be much better. Our paved roads are very bumpy as a result of hurricane Michael seven years ago, so I'll look forward to that. 13 inch wheels. A bit of a surprise was that she came to me with magnesium wheels, which I'm guessing were added for racing. A set of mag wheels ain't cheap.
IamScotticus Posted August 12 Posted August 12 (edited) Can we have a picture of one of those wheels? Edited August 12 by IamScotticus
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 13 Author Posted August 13 Sure, but give me a day. I'm taking two tires off rims either late today or early tomorrow. 1
IamScotticus Posted August 14 Posted August 14 12 hours ago, Timothy Keith-Lucas said: Sure, but give me a day. I'm taking two tires off rims either late today or early tomorrow. You can do it faster wirh 80 psi 😄
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 14 Author Posted August 14 MV8, thank you for that street tire recommendation. I'm aligned with your perspective, since I only drive my 7 on paved streets where I cannot push the car to it's capabilities. --Tim.
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 14 Author Posted August 14 My compressor will do 175 psi. Should I give it a shot? I'm a bit concerned about the structural integrity of the garage. 1 1
MV8 Posted August 14 Posted August 14 (edited) If you are talking about seating the beads, I spray the tire beads with 50/50 dish soap/water in a spray bottle, reinstall the tire valve core, then slowly inflate listening and stop adding air when the tire sidewalls are starting to push out on the last bit of bead to seat. Usually only takes a few psi and a small "pop". For low profiles that are not quite wide enough for the rim, it can be a hassle but this should be easy. If the tire leaks are quieting (because the beads are up against the rim on both sides) and the tire sidewall is moving, just pulse air in if it starts deflating or doesn't quite seat yet. I try to put just enough air in that it takes about 20 seconds between the last pulse and the pop. Any portable household 110v air pump or roofer pump should be fine. The kind carried in the car, usually not or just tedious. Spray soapy water around the bead and valve to check for leaks after filling to the desired psi. Rim bead area should be smooth and clean. If needed, there are roloc plastic polishing wheels that fit drills with an arbor to smooth and clean bead areas. They do a good job of cleaning without removing metal. I highly recommend spin balancing versus a bubble system. The cost may include mounting to your rim. Typically, mounting is included when buying a tire, with the balance as a separate charge. If I did not have a spin balancer, I would just pay/trust someone else to do it. Edited August 14 by MV8
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted August 14 Author Posted August 14 IamScotticus asked for a photo of my magnesium wheels. They look a lot like the stamped steel version but weigh 9.5 pounds. I think you can see that they are cast. The white powdery corrosion is typical of magnesium. I have a fifth one, but it is damaged, I'm guessing in the same accident that messed up the left side of my Seven.
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