Tips on removing the steering column(s)?

[hahuang65]

So, if you've been following my saga, I need to pull the engine. I'm assuming I need to also remove my steering column to make things possible/easier.

 

I'm wondering if I can somehow just remove the lower column since that's what would affect the engine. My guess is no, but worth the query.

 

Anyone got tips on how to remove the lower column, or if I have to remove both, how to remove the top. I'm a bit worried about busting something in the top section of the steering column if I just yank on the steering wheel.

 

I have a QR steering wheel, FWIW.

[CarlB]

I have an older car, but it is probably the same. First you might not have to remove the column. My car is a 2000 S-3 with a Zetec engine. I did not need to remove the column until I added an extension on the water pump housing. I wanted to get a better fit for the hose. If you look just where the steering column comes through the fire wall in the engine compartment. The shaft that extends down to the steering rack goes in a tube that extends from the back of the steering wheel. A portion of this tube is cut away where the shaft from the steering rack sticks up the tube. The shaft has a flat cut on it and the flat on the shaft lines up with the part of the tube sticking through the fire wall. The shaft and the tube are held in place by a clamp. The clamp has two bolts on one side and a set screw and jam nut on the other. Losen the jam nut and back the Allan screw out. Then remove the two bolts. The clamp will separate in two pieces. At the steering rack end is a universal joint. Remove the bolt that clamps the shaft to the universal joint. You can then push the shaft back out of the universal joint. You can take the shaft out the steering wheel side, but it involves removing the lock and that is a big job. Much easier to remove the radiator and bring it out the front. I do not know your car, but I suspect removing the steering shaft is not required.       

[Slonie]

I found myself a sudden expert on upper column replacement recently due to a steering column bushing replacement, although I did not touch my lower column for this job.

 

There's two recent threads on the topic in here in fact. The good news is, with the OEM QR column you don't have a steering column lock and so you can remove the upper column quite easily without disturbing the bushings, simply by undoing the telescoping clamp between the upper and lower columns (loosen the locknut followed by the grub screw on the clamp immediately forward of the firewall, then undo the two bolts and remove the clamp — now the upper column will be free of the lower column and you can pull it out from the driver's seat using the wheel as a handle).

 

I posted a bunch of pics from my job in the thread. Again, you should have an easier time with a QR column as it lacks the locking collar that interferes with the upper bushing upon removal. You should be able to remove and reinstall it without issue.

 

As for the lower column, that's outside my wheelhouse but it should be somewhat easy to deal with once the upper column is removed (famous last words, I know).

[toldfield]

I've removed my engine, and transmission, a few times and never had to remove the steering column.  On the twincam I remove the headers and starter from the left side which gives me plenty of room.   My car is a '82 Caterham S3.

 

 

[hahuang65]

Thanks for the tips..the steering column was really easy to remove. So I just did it just in case.

[hahuang65]

1 hour ago, toldfield said:

I've removed my engine, and transmission, a few times

I've got some questions,and I'm not sure how much of it applies since I have a Duratec...

 

But here goes

 

1) is it possible to remove the propshaft from the transmission without removing the diff? I can't seem to find the clearance. see pics

 

2) are you able to pull the engine and replace it without undoing those insane spring clamps for the exhaust collectors?

 

 

[toldfield]

n

Edited August 27, 2025 by toldfield
Didn't apply

[hahuang65]

1 minute ago, toldfield said:

I remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft/differential connection and then slide the driveshaft out of the back of the transmission.

This is what I attempted today. I removed the 4 bolts, but when I slide back, it stops at the diff, and the propshaft is probably still. 3 inches into the transmission still.

[toldfield]

I wrote a long reply and then realized that it most likely didn't apply to your car.  But in my car I can put a jack under the differential and lift it a bit to clear the prop shaft.  My car is a live axle with an Ital differential and that may make a big difference.

 

[hahuang65]

@toldfield thanks for your time. I might have to remove at least some of the bolts of the diff to tilt it.

[toldfield]

Sorry I couldn’t be more help.  Good luck 

[IamScotticus]

These new cars are packed so tight, I can only suggest that the order of disassembly be the opposite of assembly.

[speedwagon]

and a great many of the parts removed are one use and have to be replaced at substantial cost!  (too many accountants in the engineering dept.) 

[wdb]

Can you go over the top of the diff instead of trying to come down with the driveshaft? 

[hahuang65]

For my car, this job ended up being trivial.

 

Undo the clamp that joins the top column and the lower column.

 

Pull out top column. 

 

Mark alignment of lower column to universal joint. 

 

Undo lower column from universal joint

 

Pull lower column out

[CarlB]

You did not need to disconnect the drive shaft from the differential. When you put it back, use blue thread locker and clean the bolts and what the bolt screw into. The drive shaft will come out of the transmission tail shaft. There isn't anything holding it in. To get the engine out you have to have it on an angle and all the transmission oil will spill out where the drive shaft goes. My car has a ford transmission and they do not have drain plugs. Your car might have a drain. They make plugs to put in the hole when the drive shaft is removed, but make sure you have a pan under the back of the transmission to keep from getting oil everywhere. When you put the engine back it, you have to get under the car and start the driveshaft back in the back of the transmission before the engine is completely down in the engine compartment.  

[hahuang65]

@CarlB thanks for the info. I re-attached the propshaft to the diff last night. I did remember to loctite the bolts. 

 

I also drained the transmission. I figure it's easier to just re-fill it since I'm pulling it anyways,rather than deal with a bigger mess when pulling it out.