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My finished 7 Replica


raceral

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I did a search and it doesn't look like I posted my completed car.

These are basically the specs as well as a material list.

It was fun doing the project and like every one else's cars garners a lot of attention where ever I go.

 

Al

 

Dimensions

Wheel base is 93 inches

Front track width is 58 inches

Rear track width is 56 inches

Weight is 1648 pounds with a half a tank of gas and rear tire carrier installed.

 

 

 

Frame

Modified Haynes, the basic frame has the dimensions of the Haynes with a 2 inch wider than book and 1 inch taller than book.

The back is standard book portion behind the seats sized to match the Haynes frame in order to use a live axle.

I also used several gussets as well as 1.00 dom round tubing for bracing and supports.

The front lower part that supports the engine is double 1x1 16ga welded parallel together.

The floor and pedal box area as well as the scuttle front panel is 16 ga steel.

The tubes that meet the tunnel behind the seats are also tied together with a 16 ga steel panel.

This extra support was in case I wanted to do a V8 engine swap in the future.

Of course this adds weight, as my use is for the street it was not a concern.

The roll bar is .120x1.5 inch tubing, the down tubes go all the way to the floor to provide some protection for the fuel tank

 

Front Suspension

The front suspension comprises of Mustang II spindles, Gaz shocks and 350 pound springs, moog ball joints, home made upper control arms using swedged tubes and heim joints.

The lower A arm is also home made with moog ball joints, and Triumph Spitfire rubber bushings and 1.00 DOM tubing.

Steering rack is a Mustang II unit cut down 3 inches.

Granada 11 inch rotors with GM calipers

2007 16x7 Mustang V6 aluminium wheels and three point spinners, Ebay, the Lotus inserts came from Ebay Greece.

Tires are Tire Rack General Ultra High Performance summers 205x50x16, speed rated for 168 mph :rofl: , yah right

 

Rear Suspension

The rear suspension uses Gaz shocks and 200 pound springs, home made five link set up using heims and Spitfire rubber bushings as well as a 8.8 rear 31 spline axle out of a Ford Explorer.

Ratio is 3.73 with limited slip.

10x 2.5inch drums with Speedway proportioning valve

Emergency brake is Honda, pick a part

Wilwood floor pedal assembly

 

Body

The body and interior is 16 ga aluminium panels as is the hood.

Fibreglass front clamshells, hood scoop and rear fenders.

Clamshells have been cut and widened to cover the wheels and the nose cone has been also modified slightly for height.

Paint was done in a home made booth in my home garage by myself.

2003 Mustang yellow, with a 2005 Chevy black, all done in a single stage paint.

Outside mirrors are Austin Healy reproductions.

Hood hinges are TR2

 

Engine

The engine is a 3.4 GM Crate motor

Approximately 200 horse power and 210 pounds of torque, give or take a smudge.

9 to 1 compression

Lift .427 intake and .454 exhaust

Duration 204* intake and 216* exhaust

Lobe center line 107*

Holley 390 cfm carb with 62 jets and 7.5 power valve

Edlebrock intake with a cut down top hat

Aluminum under drive pulleys

Proform modified HEI distributor

Speedway hot rod chrome one wire alternator

Comp roller lifters

Fiero aluminium valve covers

Accel wiring harness

Home made headers using .083 by 1.5 inch tubing, 2 inch side pipes with 1962 Chevy truck round tube Quiet Flow mufflers.

 

Transmission

1993 Sonoma WC 1353- 232, pick a part

2400 rpm at 60 miles an hour in fifth

Home made remote shifter

 

Interior

Kirkey bomber seats

Head rests are out of an Infinity, pick a part

Drivers seat is adjustable, passenger side is fixed

Steering wheel is wood and from Argentina, ebay

Gauges are Autometer Platinum series off Ebay

Indicator lights are billet from local supplier.

Headlights are Speedway stainless buckets.

Chrome park and turn fender indicators are from Ebay UK

Rear lights are Britax from "Jack"

Switch gear is from Ebay, UK

Vinyl covering is the same material used in a new Mercedes interior.

Pedals are Wilwood as are m/c, ebay

Main Power disconnect with key from ebay UK

Moab 28,000 3 speed heater with defrosters and dash vents

MG wiper system with modified aluminum wiper arms

 

Fuel

Tank is a 15 gallon RCI

Pump is an Edelbrock 6.5 psi Quiet Flo, free flow rate 120gpm, off Ebay

Speedway cartridge fuel filters

Fuel line is 3/8ths wire wrap brake line continuous

 

I guess that is about it, cost worked out to $9800 US or Canadian with the fluctuating dollar.

Everything used was new, except for the rear axle, trans , head rests and emergency handle which were Pick A Part.

 

Most of my stuff was obtained from Ebay or other discount places.

So basically I am into the car for around 10 grand, which I think is a pretty good bargain, not counting my labour, being retired my labour is worth nothing if you compare it to the alternative of sitting around drinking a beer or two and staring up to the clouds all day.

 

Inspection

I sent all my documentation off to the motor vehicle department in the form of a presentation, headings and sub headings, with photos.

I went to a government vehicle weigh scale that was free, the fellow at the scale was a sports car fan and gave me an official form with my weights to send with my documentation.

My VIN number was sent to the inspection station where I had stipulated, approximately an hours drive.

Not trusting my work I towed the car there using a Landscape trailer

The inspection went through without a hitch.

On the way home I pulled the trailer into an insurance lot,the agent came out and, checked the VIN number and gave me my insurance, registration and plates.

And that was it.

 

Photos

Car at the local car show, I am the burned out looking bearded guy.

 

Al

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I look at cars like this and think-if only Birkin and Caterham did such good work:).

 

Only 1/2 kidding. The car is v lovely with excellent colors. It is the only home-built I have seen that got the slanted door cut-outs right. The Lowcosts just make it parallel to the ground, wh/hurts the aesthetics, to my eye (apologies to all you Lowcost owners/builders out there).

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....the Lotus inserts came from Ebay Greece.

 

 

To me this one line just sums up the incredible amount of work that you have put into your car Raceral! You literally went to the ends of the earth to finish it just right. Great color combination, beautifully detailed engine. Beautiful effort - congratulations!

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Raceral,

 

Nice build you have there. :cooldude:

What is the round black thing on the passenger side dash?

Did you make your front fenders? They look real good.

 

Thanks Martin, the Black thing on the end of the dash is an adjustable vent.

I can blow hot air through it for my face or hands on cool days.

There is a matching one on the drivers side as well.

I purchased the fenders through Jack at Kinetic, but they were on the narrow side so I cut and widened them by about 4 inches at the front tapering down to an 1/8 inch at the backs.

I also under coated the underneath with Rhino lining as well to protect against rocks of the road.

 

Croc, I must admit I had almost as much fun searching out parts as building the car.

I don't recall how I stumbled onto the fellow in Greece, but I was searching for a way to hide the Ford Logo on the wheel spinners, nothing seemed to be the right diameter, then I found this fellow that said he did custom sizes.

I sent off the size and he sent me a set back, very reasonable around 20 dollars or so.

 

Thanks again everyone for the kind words, any questions don't hesitate to ask.

 

Al

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Thanks Martin, the Black thing on the end of the dash is an adjustable vent.

I can blow hot air through it for my face or hands on cool days.

There is a matching one on the drivers side as well.

Al

 

That is a neat idea that I have not seen before and I would suspect others will copy down the road.

Maybe you could post some photos of the instillation and the parts you used so others will have the information. :cooldude:

 

:driving:

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Thanks Martin, glad you like it.

I am more than pleased to share if people find it interesting or can use it.

 

The vents throw out a lot of heat, especially if the passenger vent is closed and not being used and on high speed.

The heater is by Heatercraft or Moab, they are pricey from Heatercraft at around $240, but Summit sells the same one for around $135.00, which is where I got mine.

It is a 3 speed unit rated at 28,000btu and 260cfm.

I have added a picture.

What I did was used the two main manufacturers outlets from the heater for the dash vents, I then drilled two secondary holes for some pvc plumbing fittings, one for the floor and one fitting for the defrosters, which are also just plumbing fittings as well.

I enclosed the heater in a home made box and as it is under the hood then ran a fresh air duct from the box back into the the cabin using some aluminum dryer tubing.

That way the fresh air needed does not come from my engine compartment.

I just have a valve to shut the water flow off if not needed.

 

Another benefit is that if the radiator got hot I can turn the heater on high and have a little auxiliary cooling if needed, so far though this has not been required as the car runs a steady 180 all the time, but is there as a small backup if necessary.

 

I found some photos, maybe they can show the basic idea, if not I can see if can find some others.

 

Al

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I have that same heater in my SuperStalker, it works very well! Of course with an open cockpit, the legs to jewels area are the only part kept warm at speed. Our vents come out through the firewall below the dash.

 

Beautiful build! Something to be proud of!

 

Scott

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