jevs Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Anyone putting one on a Stalker or other car that does not come with one standard? I don't really want to add the weight, extra work, or buy more parts, but I do always use it when I park my cars (I typically drive manuals). Opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wemtd Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 If you're planing to register it make sure your state inspection doesn't require one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Check your state's inspection req't to see if the parking brake is required, and secondly if it must be separate from the main braking system. Of course, it's anyone's guess if the inspection technician would notice/ask if the parking brake was separate... Did some research on this one, but never really made a decision Some spot calipers: Wilwood: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/wilwood-billet-spot-calipers IPSCO: http://www.ipsco.org/Custom%20Services/Parking%20Brake.htm The alternative to a mechanical one is a hydraulic line lock, like Park Lok: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Park-Lok-Hydraulic-Brake,1970.html (This is what Scott had recommended to me) Here's a few pictures from a Stalker owner with the Wilwood one mounted: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Anyone putting one on a Stalker or other car that does not come with one standard? I don't really want to add the weight, extra work, or buy more parts, but I do always use it when I park my cars (I typically drive manuals). Opinions? Mine is a simple 1500 psi inline ball valve from McMaster Carr that's plumbed in with the rear brakes: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=10560 http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-valves/=tg8hpx Part #4114T21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Mine is a simple 1500 psi inline ball valve from McMaster Carr that's plumbed in with the rear brakes: Part #4114T21 Be careful with that. If warms up after closing the valve, the pressure could go well above 1500 psi and crack a caliper. I would plumb a small pressure relief valve across the ball valve to prevent this. Someday over a beer I'll tell the story about how I learned that a Chevy Chevette caliper cracks at this pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Check your state's inspection req't to see if the parking brake is required, and secondly if it must be separate from the main braking system. Of course, it's anyone's guess if the inspection technician would notice/ask if the parking brake was separate... Did some research on this one, but never really made a decision Some spot calipers: Wilwood: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/wilwood-billet-spot-calipers IPSCO: http://www.ipsco.org/Custom%20Services/Parking%20Brake.htm The alternative to a mechanical one is a hydraulic line lock, like Park Lok: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Park-Lok-Hydraulic-Brake,1970.html (This is what Scott had recommended to me) Here's a few pictures from a Stalker owner with the Wilwood one mounted: had the wilwood ebrake on my car. was a rattely pos. it also barely kept the car from rolling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subtlez28 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 I'm glad u brought this up Jevs. My older style M-spec has the miata rear brakes. The calipers have integral park brake. Problem is where they are positioned, there is not way to actuate them or run the cables... I need to look into an alternative. I would like to have one for street duty, and have a feeling the DOT inspection will require them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I'm glad u brought this up Jevs. My older style M-spec has the miata rear brakes. The calipers have integral park brake. Problem is where they are positioned, there is not way to actuate them or run the cables... My Westfield uses the brakes from the Miata donor. Simple and easy installation and they work well. To make the cables work, you swap the uprights and calipers left-to-right. This makes the cables come into the calipers from the rear and the cable length is correct. You do not invert the calipers, so the bleeds remain on the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveStruve Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 had the wilwood ebrake on my car. was a rattely pos. it also barely kept the car from rolling. Doesn't really rattle on mine but you are correct that it doesn't do a whole heck of a lot. It will stop the car from rolling if I lean on it, but if I park it on any sort of hill, it get put into gear also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) Be careful with that. If warms up after closing the valve, the pressure could go well above 1500 psi and crack a caliper. I would plumb a small pressure relief valve across the ball valve to prevent this. Someday over a beer I'll tell the story about how I learned that a Chevy Chevette caliper cracks at this pressure. Dan, I put quite a bit more repetitive (and agressive) pressure on the brake pedal when on track than I ever do when I set the pressure to hold the car in place. Typical brake pressures for an automobile can range anywhere from 800 psi for normal, day-to-day driving to up to 2000psi for maximum application. At NJMP, coming off the straight at Lightning and into turn one, I'm applying maximum brake pressure (right at the edge of skidding the slicks on a 1900lb car) from around 140mph down to around 85mph. At MSR Cresson on the 1.7ccw course (longest straight), I'll max brake from around 130 down to 70. The valve, rated to 1,500 psi @ 70° F, has been on the car for seven years and has performed as expected with no issues. With most of the brake bias on the front, I don't know if the rear brakes have ever even seen 1500 psi. And I still want to hear your story, preferably with something cold in hand. :cheers: Edited August 27, 2014 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyMike Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I had to get a little creative to pass my inspection. That's all I'm gonna say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I have also used Wilwood parking brakes. At least from my experience I would say...Don't waste your time or money they are virtually worthless. Looking for a better way. Gale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 They are better than Wally World plastic chocks.....you don't have to have some one pull em for you and jump in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Dan, The valve, rated to 1,500 psi @ 70° F, has been on the car for seven years and has performed as expected with no issues. :cheers: Industrial hardware like this is typically good for 4X the rating, so that valve probably works to 6000. My concern is for the caliper, not the valve. Of course, if there's any air in the system, that will alleviate the thermal expansion problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) Industrial hardware like this is typically good for 4X the rating, so that valve probably works to 6000. My concern is for the caliper, not the valve. Of course, if there's any air in the system, that will alleviate the thermal expansion problem. The rear calipers (Gran Am GT) have been on the car for seven years as well, and no issues. Whether needed or not, the brakes are thoroughly bleed prior to every track event; this ensures they are air-free. Edited August 27, 2014 by xcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanG Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Some of the fire trucks that I rode in the mid/late 1970s had a line lock on the brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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