Jump to content

JohnCh

Administrators
  • Posts

    3,087
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JohnCh

  1. Perhaps it's a combination of factors; your scale might be off at the low end, and Avon provided the wrong information. If those tires really are that light though, then I may decide to raise the Westfield a little to maintain ground clearance and go with the ZZRs when the RA-1s wear out. -John
  2. Karl, are you sure about those weights? I weighed my 6” wheel at 10.5 lb, which is consistent with the first post in this thread on BlatChat that gives the weight at 4.78 kg (10.5 lb) and the 8” at 5.44 kg (12.0 lb). I checked with Avon this morning and they told me that the ZZR weighs 8.5 kg (18.7lb) in both the 185 and 215 sizes. I also asked about the CR500 which is known to be extraordinarily light for a radial and was told the 175/55-13 & 205/55-13 (the nearest sizes) are 6.75 kg (14.9 lb) & 6.94 kg (15.3 lb) respectively. -John
  3. I weighed the 13x6 version at 10.5 lb. I’ve been told that the 8” version is 1.5 lb heavier. -John
  4. Definitely not a Westfield. Nose cone, bonnet, windscreen, tub, and rear wings are all wrong. -John
  5. Mike, the difference to gearing may not be as dramatic as you think. The circumference of the 205/60-13 is only 5% smaller, so if you are turning 3000rpm at cruising speed, you would now turn 3150rpm. The good news is that thanks to the gearing you'll now get to cruising speed a little more quickly -John
  6. I really wanted to go with 185/60-13 up front for steering feel, but I wasn’t willing to lose 1/2” of ground clearance. BTW for what it’s worth, I prefer the RA-1 to the R888. The sidewalls are softer on the former which seem to work a little better on such a light car and result in (to me at least) sweeter handling. Grip, however, is noticeably better with the R888. -John
  7. I've run both the RA-1 and R888 in 205/60-13 on 6" rims with no issues. Before doing that I spoke with Toyo and one of their dealers who specializes in race rubber and they both indicated that although 7" might work a bit better, there was no problem running that width on a 6" wheel. -John
  8. I once had to use the fire extinguisher in the Westfield. The throttle cable had come in contact with the 12V+ stud on the alternator, turned red hot, and lit the oil impregnated air filter on fire. Thanks to the Halon fire extinguisher, the damage was limited to the air filter. Without an extinguisher, the fiberglass body would have burned like a very expensive candle. -John
  9. After building the Westfield 11, Chris Smith set out to build a copy of the Lotus 7 S3. He apparently did a good job. So good in fact that Caterham, who had purchased the rights to the design from Lotus, sued Westfield for infringing on that design. As part of the settlement, Westfield altered their version and began heading in a different direction (fiberglass tub & bonnet, widebody, IRS, etc.). Those early cars go by the name pre-lit, short for pre-litigation. -John
  10. Actually so does this one. Rule number 5 reads: The full is available here. -John
  11. The URL embedded in the link goes to your email provider, rather than the link shown in the text. This link will take you to the correct ebay listing. -John
  12. Wasn't disputing it was a Westfield pre-lit, just pointing out inaccuracies in the ad. Unfortunately I was in pedant-mode this morning -John
  13. That's a pre-lit, but it couldn't be an '81 as stated in the ad. Chris Smith built his first Eleven in '82 and founded the company in '83. I don't think the 7SE (pre-lit) was made until '84. Also, I'm pretty sure those are copies of the Series 3, not the Series 2. It's an interesting option for someone who wants a more vintage feeling se7en. -John
  14. 7 and 17 are also the same car. 17 was taken by the previous owner and 7 was taken after the ground up rebuild. -John
  15. Mike, xflow7 discovered an easy fix for this. Begin reading this thread at post 9, and then view this post from Croc for the part numbers. -John
  16. Based on the dog’s actions at the end of the last episode, I don’t think he was very impressed with the show either -John
  17. RockAuto carries the WiX WL7064. I can't link to the results page, so just enter the part number in this search form and you'll find it. -John
  18. Gert, are those new mirrors? I don't recall those on the car in Monterey. -John
  19. Raceline is very hit and miss with email, but when you get them on the phone, they're quite helpful. -John
  20. Adding to supersportsp's post, are you saying that the issue is acceleration based, not speed based? i.e. If you are cruising in 6th gear at 70mph does the steering still feel light, or do you need to be accelerating hard in 2nd or 3rd to experience this at that speed? -John
  21. As others have said, there is something wrong with your setup. You should fix this before you begin experimenting with add-ons like a rear diffuser. Are you sure you are feeling lightness in the front end and not bad tracking/tramlining? This can be pretty disconcerting at speed. Assuming that is the problem, in addition to checking the alignment settings, also check your front & rear wheel bearings for excess play. As for alignment, below are the Westfield factory settings and what I am running on my car (SEiW with widetrack, no ARBs). The latter settings came from some racers in the UK who have experimented a lot both on and off track and they have transformed the handling of my car. They are a little aggressive for the street and do have some wear problems in the front, but the car feels far more planted, with much better turn in than stock. A few Westfield-specific things to consider: Front ride height should be set so the imaginary line between the inner and outer pivot points of the lower control arm is parallel to the ground Rake is critical. The more you stray from the recommended range of 15-20mm higher in the rear, the more problems you’ll have. The factory points for these measurements are in the build manual. Let me know if you don’t have this. Factory (Front/Rear): Camber: -0.25 to -0.5/-0.25 Toe: 10 min toe in/30 min toe in Rake (Rear-Front): 14mm My settings Camber: -2.5/-1.5 Toe: 15 min toe out/30 min toe in Rake: 20mm -John
  22. Rob, mine were made to my specs. After hearing very good reports about the deflectors you bought, I experimented with mockups in various sizes and angles before settling on the final shape. -John
  23. There are a few threads on here about my enormous wind deflectors. They aren’t particularly attractive and must make the car’s poor aerodynamics even worse (see below), but they work great and add a measure of protection. Specifically, there is a good chance that if I didn’t have those, my wife and I would have been killed or seriously injured on the way back from USA2005. The lexan deflector prevented a tire carcass from hitting me in the shoulder (best case) or head (worst case) at 70mph on a dark freeway. The deflector redirected the carcass so it “only” ripped off the driver’s side rear wing and cracked the tub. Had it hit me, we most likely would have crashed. I recently experimented with half doors that I mocked up out of cardboard and noticed a big difference compared to my deflectors. The half doors did a much better job reducing turbulence in the cockpit from about mid torso down, but they didn’t do much to stop the wind from hitting me square in the face – an area where my deflectors excel. The lack of wind through the lower part of the cabin with the half doors was nice, but I’m concerned that it would be a negative on warmer days when the hot air would just build up. I’ll probably continue to experiment in this area over the winter. http://john15.web.officelive.com/Documents/993westfield.jpg -John
×
×
  • Create New...