Dave W

I fill my trans thru the shift lever. I measure out the amount of oil called out in the service manual. Remove the lever and fill. Dave W :7drive:

Bruce Thanks for the polish info, that is what I was afraid of, LOTS OF WORK, I was looking for a one shot easy miracle polish. Dave W

That is very nice. What you you use to clean / polish the aluminum with? Dave W

Mid-Ohio was the track, I had to drive around the out side, or inside of the patches. Worst was the patches going on to the front home straight and the tight U just leading on to the long back straight. My guess is that the actual surface texture probably plays more into it. Dave W

I find that hard to believe that concrete is better then asphalt. If you have ever raced on a track with concrete patches, it's like nite and day between the two surfaces. Dave W :7drive:

I moved to Michigan about 5 years ago, and I've only had the seven on the road since last summer. I had been in PA for 11 years and had just moved here from Kentucky, and these roads are by far the worst. I cruise around a lot just up from the Ann Arbor area, in the Brighton recreation area. Dave W :7drive:

I only wish the Michigan roads were as bad as PA's, In that case the Michigan state bird must be the cold patch. Pot holes big enough that it would take week to find a Seven if it fell in it. Dave W :7fume:

Another option: Make a cardboard template of the curved hose(s)s and go to your local "friendly" auto parts store. See if they will let you search through their hoses in the back room to find one that is fairly close to your needs. It worked for me, I even had to find a hose with two different diameter ends. Good luck on the hoses. Dave W :7drive:

I'll check my odometer after I finish shaveling the 5" of snow we are getting today. Dave W :ack:

I have ES-100s and have settled on 17.5 PSI, down from A/T's that I ran at 19 - 20 PSI. Some of the difference is likely to be the width of the wheel that you are using. But the ES-100s differently has stiffer side walls then my older tires. I'm running between .6-.7 neg camber. Dave W

I would bet that if you took the old seals to a import auto parts dealer and told them it's from a "92" Girling master cylinder with this Diameter, that they could match a rebuild kit. Even if you had to get 3 $10 kits it would still be a lot cheaper. All I can say is that Caterham most be very proud of the master cylinder. Sorry but I just got a complete Toyota rebuilt Master cylinder for my seven and it cost a grand total of $38. Dave :7drive:

Rob Another option "if you can weld" is to use a pair of salvaged seats with head rests, and actually section the seat frame so it will fit in a seven. Most seats can be taken apart easily, the foam trimmed to the narrower width, and you end up with a comfortable seat. The only thing is most house hold sewing machines can not handle leather or vinyl, you may have to have a professional shop sew the sections back together. While you are at it, you save half the wt by removing all the adjust mechanism. It worked for me Dave W :7drive:

Russ I'm just glad you sent the warm weather this way. It was finally above freezing in the shop last nite, for who knows how long. Actually did a little work, but it's just 5 degree NOW!!! Dave W :7fume:

The Rover aluminum V-8 is probably the most common V8 put into a seven. The V-8 builds and the stalker frames are normally 4 or more inchers wider and 2 or 3 incher longer to be about to shoe horn the engine in between the rails Visit LocostUSA.com and the builders log. every thing from small diesel to big V8's engines. and a lot in between. Dave W :7fume:

Jack & Mike The engine is a Toyota 4age and the elbow is the stock hose just turned 180* to fit under the bonnet. The air box inlet opening is 2 1/2 times the area of the TB. I have a hole in the base to drain any water out, but luckly I have never tested it in heavy rain. I would think that most Seven rads would be slightly smaller then then one I have installed which would make the fabrication of the air box a little easier when fitting it above the rad. The box is made from one 1/8" thick fiberglass panel that mounts to the actual TB, and the bottom and sides are 1/16" thick fiber glass. The 1/16" glass is flexible so you can bend it to the curved shape. I then just used aluminum right angle pieces and roughly riveted the shape together and the layed glass up in the corners and seams. Probably 4 or 5 hours to fab the thing. Dave W

Cold Air Box I made one from fiberglass, because it does not transfer engine bay heat as easily. Basically my cold air box seals up against the top of the nose cone Via foam and with the inlet above the Rad and to one side of the filler neck. I also added a little deflector in front of the rad to prevent any heated air from coming up off of the rad and into the inlet opening. The box is very light Wt, and is just held in place by one 6mm bolt and a quick release fast pin, which you not see in the photo. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1997712066_lofrtopen.jpg Dave W

I have the same tire and .7* camber with even wear. I would look at the bushings, there may be a dynamic deflection issue. Does sound strange if the toe checked out as being OK. Dave W

Tim Contact me off line, I can probably give you a few pointers on setting up your build table and fixtures. I'll be in Michigan for the next few weeks. Dave W

Toyota 4AGE with alternator and T-50 transmission, no engine mounts or exhaust manifold 273lbs.

Kyle I do not have a lot of extra space with size seven shoes, so my suggestion would be to take some cardboard and mock up a foot well and see what you can actually live with. If building the frame like a 442 you could increase the area as others have suggested, and look at floor mounted pedals so you can end up with close to the right pedal leverage. Good luck on your build, Dave W

I do not think it is a matter of 10w-40 Vs 15W -40 but the additive in the diesel oil. The EPA had taken Zinc Dithiophosphate out of the regular motor oil. lf your Kent engine has a HI LIFT cam then you need the EP additives. The recommend diesel oil still has these additives. Search ZDDP and get the full story. Anyone with HiPo flat lifter cams should be using diesel oil. Dave Whitt

Same as Russ' 27* but a 1/2" shorter. If I where to make another one I would also put a little more taper on the sides, probably about an inch wider at the bottom Vs top on each side. While you are at it, add some 6-32 tape holes at the top to attach plastic colored visiors. They help deflect the air when turn up plus come in handy even when you have your sun glasses on. Good luck on the new windshield Dave W

Tim I think the odds are pretty low that you will find a frame made from round tubing. If you can get all the tubing and brackets for $400, you are going to be much better off building it yourself. The building the table and the, lay out and a few braces is only going to take 10 to 15 hours. That's only a drop in the bucket for the total build. The frame is really less the 10% of the process. If you are time limited the best bet is finding a half built car that some one has lost interest in. Keep searching Dave W

Jim Thanks for the reply, I'm just looking for street use, My selection is limited with 14" wheels. Thanx Dave W

Very nice build. I like the lowered battery mount design. Looks like the tires are ES-100s, How do you like them? I'm thinking of up-grading my tires. Dave W