Dave W

Thanx Russ Dave W

I'm also a member of the 14 club. I had been runing ES-100s, and they where getting a little thin. And as mentioned no more 14" ES-100 in USA. So after looking for several weeks I found some Federals in 185-55s, and have say they are much better then the Yokohamas and lower priced. Dave W

I would suggest that you consider adding rubber spacers [on both sides of the tab] of the rad and the hard frame mount to prevent from structurally loading the thin aluminum shell of the rad. If you can find a spool type spacer that would even be a better fix. Dave W

I made an aluminum frame from channel stock, that just wedges into the foot well. I have modified [reduced size] the clutch pedal rest since the photo to allow me to put my left foot under the clutch pedal on long trips. If building a rest, I suggest that you mock up the location before final assembly. You need to get the brake rest within +- a 1/4" to be effective. Dave W

If you have a industrial electronic supplier close by check, out their spiral wire wrap. They usually have several thickness to choose from. It will expand to the different wire counts as they vary along the harness run. I also used it to protect both the brake and fuel lines. Dave W

If the float level is correct and the bowl is clean, next check the fuel filter. Dave W

I had the same problem with a 4AGE. The hood Louvers allowed water to settle on plug seals and work its way into the plug well. It's a fair amount of work but I made a solid aluminum plate that covered all the plugs, then glued heavy foam on the under side of the plate, then bolted it down to seal area. This assumes that you can run longer plug wires in from the front or rear into the plug well. Solved the problem and the polished plate looks a lot better. Dave W

I drilled the wiring hole in the base of the mounting plate of the roll bar and also through the mounting surface on the frame. Than ran the wire through the tubing using weld wire to fish it thru the tubing and a long needle nose. [takes a few tries] The holes were relative small since I only ran one wire and used the roll bar as a ground. Install grommets in holes to protect the wire. Dave W

I had the same problem as Skinny G had with lock up. With the cross car Wts balanced to within 3 lbs, I was having the RF tire lock up. I believe part of the problem has to be the shock damping adjustments, and how quickly you transfer Wt. My Rear shocks, have the damping adjusted relative low [solid axle]. I ended up going with diagonal wts with the RF and LR carrying about 40 lbs more, which solved problem. It was trial and error just added a Qrtr turn to each corner, with RF carrying now with a slightly higher percentage. Dave W

You could also try Simple Seven. They probably have the most when it comes to historical data on Sevens in USA. Dave W

Chuck I think you will find that the half doors will cut down the buffeting just as much as the your new top, plus you will be bring home a lot less stones in the cockpit. My half doors are on 90% of the time. Dave W

If you are considering a rear wind deflector, it should not be a solid panel across the back between the roll bar tubes. I had tried that several years ago and it really did not help. Since then I've installed a rear window for colder weather. The window has a sliding center section, and what I found is that with the center section opened about 3 or 4" it does an excellent job of cutting down the buffeting, because the center area has a high vacuum area with a constant draw to the low pressure area behind the window. So if you go that route, design the panel to have an adjusting section or plan on using a hole saw to get enough open space to bleed off the air in the cockpit. Also the side wind deflectors seem to work best for me when adjust to about a 40* angle to the windshield. Dave W

You might want to check your local hardware store and see if they have aluminum door and window cleaner. It works good on dull surfaces and it may be able to take off some of the heavy oxide. Dave W

The 2Tc is a die hard engine. I would bet that doing a valve job would be all that is needed to refresh the motor. If you go the 4AGE route, you may also need a bell housing if your T-50 is older then 1983. A 1983-87 year trans should bolt right up to a 4AGE. You will also have to section the intake manifold on the 4AGE to be able to it fit under the hood and possibly the oil filler neck on the cam cover. Dave W

Jim I have high angle Heim joints on the steering arms, along with stripper bolts and the seals on both side of the joint, which is probably worst case for angularity and no issues. Dave W

About half of my suspension mounting points are Heim joints. I installed seals on each side of the joints, and I'm now at 24,000 miles on the same joints!!!! and no squeaks and still tight. Every 10,000 miles I clean and re-lub with EP grease. I guess I will replace the joints at 30,000 just because I feel guilty. The best thing since sliced bread. If you are going with Heim joints http://www.sealsit.com is the way to go. Dave W

I think it is the actual pump at the stations, I have an open non-restricted aircraft style fill cap, plus I added a 2nd tank vent in the opposite corner, and I still have problems at some pumps at the same station. Try turn the pump handle at 90*, still it is PITA. Dave W

Before you start, mark the four tire spots on the floor. Then with a level, and a long straight edge shim under the scales to get every thing level. Don't be surpised if the garage floor is more then 3/8" off in that short span. I used a paint pencil marked the locations and required shim right on the floor. Dave W

Look at Speedway or E-bay, for the type of mirror that clip on to the rain gutter seam use in the 40s and 50s cars. They clamp on with two small set screws. No holes required but will leave marks where it is clamped on the windshield up-right. Dave W

PM sent. Dave W

After looking at slomove's list, I'm not complaining about 2 exhaust hangers, a water pump, and a windshield, in 22,000 miles. But I think I'm going to check my fuel lines this weekend! Dave W

Here a few shots from the blats in MN. Everybody had a GREAT time. Dave W

Roberto The first thing I would do is remove the thermostat and place it in a pan of water and slowly heat it up to see when or if it will open. If it is not a air lock, and it does not sound like it, then high probability that it is the thermostat. If you do get a new thermostat I would drill an 1/8" dia hole in it to help with filling the system and removing the air. Dave W

I have mud flaps that clear the ground by about 3". There is a definite reduction in the stone chips in the spats and fender. But I still have a lower band of about 4" that gets a lot more sand blasting on the spats. Probably about 2" ground clearance to the lower edge of the flap may be the ticket. I just made them to a lenght that I thought looked the best if flaps can look good? Dave W

My old MG had a cork valve cover gasket with the same problem. I found an after market rubber gasket for the cover and was able to use the same gasket over and over between valve adjustments. The other thing is to make sure the valve cover sealing surface to straight and is not bent from over tightening. Dave W