ashyers

If the line is failing sometimes they will "shed". You may want to check your float bowls and toss in a new fuel filter.

I went through that chasing various tappets. I had to use various online sites and cross reference until I could figure out how the p/n system worked and I could order the thickness required. The parts guys at the local dealer were useless. I eventually ordered through Tasca with p/n only and no humans...

The 270/271 should work fine for what you're doing.

For that elbow some Loctite 680 should do the trick.

We were able to tune individual cylinders by a global %, but it was not a huge amount. If you're not running super lean it should work fine. Initial tests were done with no individual cylinder tuning at the track, then fine tuned on the dyno.

When you go down this road don't forget to try staggering the stacks. We had very good results with this in a road racing configuration. We ran equal length short stacks when running ovals.

Currently I have a hopped up '03 2.3L Ranger engine that I like, and am familiar with. I'm thinking about picking up some core engines. I like the Ranger's lack of balancers and timing chain setup. Anyone know what models had a similar engine? Thanks, Andy

Thanks! While researching methods for holding the wings on I came across an account where a guy lost the wing, it hit & dented the hood, then took out the windshield! I guess I was lucky. I'm surprised they don't have a distributor here, wonder why? They seem to offer more bonding fastener options than the suppliers here... Andy

Morning All, After a hit from one of Oakland's larger potholes I had the pleasure of watching the LF Cycle wing fly off... The rigid adhesive that the wings were bonded on with adhered to the stays well, but not the wings, poor prep work. I was wondering if anyone knows a source for Big Head Cable Tyrap fasteners in the US or an equivalent. https://www.hall-fast.com/bighead-stainless-steel-cable-tyrap-16mm-x-12mm It would be nice to have the option of removing the wings and this looks like a reasonable way do do so. Thanks, Andy

I'm not familiar with Haltech, but can you log the cam and crank sensors? May try logging 5v reference too. This will help rule out sensors without shot gun replacement. Did you verify the no spark the old fashioned way?

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone has hooked up an Innovate wide band to one of the older MBE 967EF units. I'd like to be able to log lambda with the engine parameters. Thanks, Andy

Nick, Finally got around to "adjusting" the brake pedal yesterday. It went well, essentially I flipped the existing bends and added about 2deg to each. I'm now thinking about doing the clutch pedal so I can add a small dead pedal in the foot box. Thanks for the help. Andy

Mike, I'd love to join you guys, but driving out from Oakland is unlikely to happen ☹️. Maybe be a West Coast event at Sears Point?! Andy

Looks like everyone had a great time. Thanks for sharing the photos! Can I pick up a set of "warmers" in blue?!?!

Nick, That's it! The pedal Caterham should have made . I have a 25 ton press so I suspect bending the pedal is possible. How did the metal fare in the process and did you bend it cold? I assume you now have a few miles of "testing" at this point! Andy

I've already moved the pedal as far as I can with the washer/spacer combo. Does anyone have a used pedal they don't need? I may be interested . Andy

Been enjoying driving the '03 SV and nearly have 1000mi on the rebuilt engine, but the brake pedal is bugging me! The pedal currently in the car is bent to the left and the distance from the brake pedal to the accelerator is too great to comfortably heel/toe. I was wondering if there is a brake pedal available that is not bent. This would place the pedal in a position that would work quite well for me. I could bend the current pedal, but am reluctant to do so. Thanks, Andy

Update: Used the routing suggested by Sean for a heater equipped car. I included the restrictor in the degas line, I just drilled out the center of a small SHCS and installed it in the expansion tank hose nipple. As far as the T fittings I was able to find a nylon one that was able to accommodate the hose sizes for both the T-stat housing and the heater hoses. So far so good. The car has ~1000mi on the rebuilt engine, including some time at over 100F ambient and it's working well. Thanks for the help! Andy

I had similar cool running issues with my Duratec powered Caterham. The cooling system was an octopus of hoses heading to a 1.5" tube with three 5/8" branches. After looking over some info provided on this forum (http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?12165-2-3-Duratec-running-cold-in-03-Caterham&highlight=cooling+system) and revising the system the T-stat now works properly and the engine maintains a constant temperature of 80C. I also ditched a few pounds of hoses and tubing . If you are running cool enough to stay in the portion of the map that provides warm up enrichment you're going to get poor economy and not do the engine any good. Before you start replacing T-stats look at the routing of your cooling system. Maybe you have a similar issue? Andy

Mike, Is the car running stock suspension bushings or urethane? Andy

Mike, Where does it look like the crack originated relative to the weld? At least the driveshaft didn't start chopping off parts. When I was involved in racing it was not uncommon to see them fail, the shaft get free and remove the suspension rather rapidly. Happy you were not hurt! Andy

It's finally running again :driving:. That took a bit longer than expected, but I guess I didn't expect to rebuild the engine either! We've got a few heat cycles on the it and I think we're going to toss the car on the dyno tomorrow to do some break in/mapping. I did take a couple of laps around the parking lot and remember why I jumped off this bridge! If the weather is nice this weekend I'll do some more "break in".

Kevin, The idler is a ratchet mechanism. Once you lift the pawl it doesn't take too much chain tension to cause the plunger to retract. You'll just need the right pick to lift the pawl out of engagement. There's not that much tension on the spring, I believe most of the tensioning is done via oil pressure and the ratchet/pawl is just to maintain tension when the engine is off. Andy

Kevin, We had planned to pull the cams with the motor in the car, but my car has a Ranger front cover with a giant idler pulley that once drove a fan. When the orig. builder rerouted the belt to get to the right side alternator the upper bolt hole for accessing the timing rail was eliminated because it was in the belt's path. We discovered this in process and had to pull the cover off. Of course we had to tear down the entire engine in the end to fix a mess of issues... Had the bolt hole been there I think the only tough bit would have been locking the tensioner in it's retracted state. We should have it running next week and after some break in miles I'll have some dyno runs you're welcome to check out with the Crower Stage 2 cams. Andy

papak, You can pull the cams in the car if you can get to the bolts that allow you to hold the tensioner released. I found a copy of a set of Cosworth instructions that's pretty good. Here's the link: http://dubaipetrolheads.com/biggles/download/camshaft_install.pdf We are nearly ready to fire up the motor in my car (Finally!!). I'm planning lighting it off on Monday with the students, once the initial break in is done it's going to be strapped to the dyno. What cams are you going to use? As I recall you had some Crower Stage 1's in the car. We're trying Crower Stage 2's. If you need some new buckets drop me a line, I have a bunch of them! Andy