ashyers

I'd suggest checking the timing of the fluid intake/return port. If the seal displaces a large amount of fluid before passing over the port it will create a jet of fluid in the reservoir. This may lead to some leaking. Pop the top and have someone depress the peddle while watching the behavior of the fluid in the reservoir. If you get a geyser you may have an issue. Andy

Glad you got it sorted. I keep a spare around since the nearest source for SBD iTB’s is in England. Hopefully yours is easier to obtain.

The TPS signal would bounce around as the connection went intermittent leading to wonky fueling. It was not as consistent as you describe, but it became worse with heat and different vibration levels (RPM's). I added an edit to my last post about the lambda sensor. Andy

Did you check the TPS when it was acting up? I had an issue with the TPS connector that would only raise its head when good and hot. If you can get a log when the car's acting up that could be helpful. Edit: Is your ECU unlocked? If so you could set it to open loop to help determine if it's the lambda sensor. This stuff is great for cleaning up connectors!!!! https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/ Andy

You can try to gauge the amount of wear of the throttle shafts by feel or attempting to see the amount of leakage with some carb cleaner or gentle compressed air. As far as dumping the choke mechanism, be careful. some carbs flow worse without it and it screws up the jetting.

Depends on if the shafts are worn and what kind of bushings they run, if any, and how you're cleaning the carb. If I can avoid it I don't pull the butterflies. I don't know if that carb runs any shaft bushings, but some carb cleaners are not kind to them. If the shaft for the throttles is not wobbly and seals well I'd leave them be. Did you have a consistent idle and normally functioning idle mixture screw before you took the carb apart? If so the shaft is probably OK.

What were the pressures?

On my SV I found removing the rear bar was a benefit on local roads (very bumpy) and autocrossing (bumpy too, more controlable oversteer). It made the car easier to drive and put the power down better. This may not apply on a smooth track with super sticky tires, but it's a data point. I think the platforms are a good idea so you can adjust the ride height, rake and corner weights to help dial in the car. Andy

I'm not sure how far you are from San Leandro, but if you get in a real pickle you can pull the axle and I may be able to help you pluck the race off the stub shaft. If all else fails careful use of an abrasive cutter and chisel will do the trick, but you don't get to reuse the bearing ! Andy

Is it for the IAC you removed?

It looks like your car has a bunch of the stock wiring and sensors still left on it. Do you know any history of the build? I'm guessing they added the Pectel ECU when they went to ITB's and left the factory stuff in place, even though it's not used. Unfortunately that makes the wiring "interesting"! Check to see that your ECT is hooked up and also that the readings make sense when you look on the computer. Check the other readings too while you're at it. The system you have doesn't use many inputs and you should be able to see if things are working by looking at the sensors live.

It's likely for a Bosch temperature sender. I suspect the air temp sensor (ACT in your maps). If it was the coolant temp sensor I doubt the car would start! If it is the ACT the system will default to a value that was input to the map. It's nice to have it, but the car will run without it. Edit: Check the airbox or backing plate for your ITB's. If it's ACT it's possible it was disconnected by mistake.

Vovchander, Looks like progress! I'd suggest ditching the IAC, there's no need. I'm actually surprised someone took the time to hook a system up. The ports will be nice for balancing the throttles . To run this setup you primarily need RPM, TPS, and ECT. The remainder of sensors (ACT, BAP...) work to modify the values from the 3D fuel and timing maps. The fuel map will be a combo of RPM and TPS giving an output of ms of injection time. The ignition map is much the same but the output is in deg. of crank rotation at firing. I'm concerned about your idle setting. Think of the idle setting as the anchor point. If the idle setting is incorrect the entire map will be shifted and can lead to a bit of a mess. Some questions: Have you balanced the throttles? Do you know the intended value of the TPS at idle on your original map or current map? How did your tuner do the mapping? Did they run the engine at various loads and throttle openings or just do WOT acceleration runs? If you can post a screenshot of the fuel and ign. maps with the throttle at idle and the maps "live" that would be helpful as it will highlight where you're currently set. Andy

Vovchandr, I recall that this engine has had its share of issues. Is this "dead condition" a new thing? In addition are you sure your TPS is set up correctly? If the idle setting's off a bunch you could be "falling off" the map causing a bunch of fun. Typically when mapping a system like this I set the drop throttle fuel to 0 ms until around 2500 RPM, then I turn the fuel back on. I'd be curious to see the fuel map and the ignition map for your setup to see what's going on. When you did the mapping did you use an inertia or eddy current dyno? CarlB if you can send a copy of the software my way and Vovchandr can send a copy of his map I'd be happy to take a look and try to help. Andy

This may help you out. DescProW PEXT.zip

Do you know how to pull up a 3d representation of the fuel and timing maps? Please add detail describing the "dead condition" and what conditions cause it. If it lasts for a few seconds something is amiss. I'll have to see if I still have a copy of the software around and do a bit of a refresher.

It's been a while, but I used their T6 system at work frequently and I'll try and help out. The Pectel stuff isn't too bad to use, but you'll have to commit to some digging to get familiar with the way it's laid out. The documentation within the software is decent. The datalogging features work well and once you get the hang of it you should be off and running. Essentially you set up what you want logged and the logging rates, upload the info to the ECU, then once you're done with your test you download the data. What parameters would you like to log? Andy

John, I purchased the No Toil stuff on Amazon, if that’s what you’re thinking of using. Andy

KnifeySpoony, I've had good luck using No Toil Biodegradable filter oil and cleaner with my ITG filter. It's gentle to the filter and seems to work well (it's darn tacky). It also isn't as nasty to use and clean up as some of the other stuff out there. I clean the filter at ~4000mi intervals or once a year unless I do something that leads to ton of junk getting into it. You do need to let it sit overnight when you clean and re-oil the filter. FYI, foam filters degrade if exposed to the sun. If the foam is becoming fragile toss the filter. Andy

ChuckM, Did you have a chance to check the accuracy of your gauge? If it's working properly does the car get warm driving at freeway speeds when the fan is not necessary? Andy

ChuckM, Before you go too far down the rat hole, you may want to verify the readings on the gauge. If you have an IR thermometer that makes it pretty easy and you can check the flow through the rad too. Check to see if the rad's fins are brittle. When they get to that point the fins no longer pull heat from the tubes and you get a situation like you describe and the core is shot. Andy

Chuck M., When you say hot, how hot? I'd caution you against removing the T-stat. It reduces the local pressure in the block and head which can lead to steam pockets forming and overheating. In addition running an engine cold for excessive periods is bad for both efficiency and the rings. Have you pressure tested the both the system and the cap? For every 1psi of pressure in the system the boiling point will increase ~3deg F. Something as simple as a bad rad cap can lead to a bunch of headaches. Andy

Check your fuel pressure.

Glad to hear it's running well! I'm learning a bit here, which is kind of fun! I was able to open up the advanced features on your ECU's maps and it has MANY more goodies than the earlier versions. This includes idle control with ignition timing. This is something I have to do the old fashioned way with the 967. This system has a ton of adjustablity, if you're inclined to dig into it. FYI the target idle target speed is set at 1100 RPM (you nailed that) it may be adjusted for operating temp, but this has not been done. The system is currently set to adjust idle at throttle site 0 with a road speed of <5 MPH. From what I can tell it controls idle on the high side, once you exceed the target +500 RPM (1600 RPM) it pulls timing. Seems to me the trick would be to set the idle via airflow a bit on the high side at the proper location on the map and allow the ECU to smooth things out via timing. Even when you do this manually, without computer controls in the ignition maps, it works pretty darn well. Andy

jeffs, I'd take a very careful look at your coolant temp sensor and it's connector. If it's Bosch and you can find the P/N you can look up the temp vs resistance curve and check it out with an ohmmeter. If it's inexpensive it may be worth just swapping it out. Readings like you describe will cause havoc and may have killed your O2 sensor if the ECU kept dumping in fuel every time it was told the engine was at a very low temperature. Andy