NVP66S

Haynes has a "Weber Carburettors" manual. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Haynes+Weber+carburettors There's also a 1979-'91 edition.

How is it being licensed? If it is as a replica, then 1968 was the year that DOT listed lights were made a requirement.

Oh, and if the job looks like it may leak the resin through and drip off the bottom, duct tape over the area to prevent leakage.

I have a lot of experience with woven fiberglass and some with carbon. One feature of the glass is that you can see through the layup and find any dry spots while you are working it. You can't see through the carbon, so use more than the minimum of epoxy. It won't affect the strength much, it'll just add a few grams of weight. The other thing is to make the layers of cloth different sizes. If they are all the same, there'll be a spot where the patch makes the area stiff, then suddenly less stiff outside the area. When building an airplane structure, the advice is 1 inch overlap per ply, but you can lower that to about 3/8 inch for a repair job. Also, make sure to sand the broken surface before starting the layup, so that the cloth will lay flat without being held off the surface by broken fibers. Good luck!

I am a mere 500 miles west of Houston. Texas is big.

Since one of the sensors goes upstream of the cat pack, I would *guess* that they are resistant to lead fouling. But check with the manufacturer on that. I ran 100LL in my 1980 grey market Mercedes 280E, but that car was designed to run on leaded gas. Dan

Try your local small airport. 100LL avgas is about $5.00 a gallon. It's called 100 octane Low Lead, but the tetraethyl lead content is higher than 100 octane from the 1960's so you can use it to race, but not on a street car with a cat pack. Dan

How much are you willing to build and what's your building skill level? You can get a new Westfield kit from Manik for $14,500 plus the donor car (200 HP Honda S-2000, 140 HP Miata without the turbo, Hayabusa, etc) but it's a lot more work to assemble than a Cat. http://manikllc.com/brochures/Sport_Miata_Component_kit.pdf

Well, if you really want to be anally retentive and pedantic, :willy_nilly: torque is lbf-ft and energy is ft-lbf, where lbf is pounds force and lbm is pounds mass. It's easier to remember that torque is a force at a radius (not moving) and energy is pushing against a force through a certain distance (which implies motion). But like Slomove, I greatly prefer to use Newtons N, kilograms kg, meters m , and seconds s. It makes everything far less confusing. My tiny brain has always balked at, for example, why calculating gas flow through an orifice should have a term for g, the acceleration of gravity at sea level on this particular planet. g is just there to convert from lbf to lbm. Sheesh.

Congratulations!! Glad you're through the process. I chose 1962 as the year of my replica, and it turned out to be fortuitous. TX requires a safety inspection and my taillights do not have DOT molded into the lenses. It turns out that this was required in 1968 so I didn't need to change my tail light lenses for US DOT approved ones. Dan

Westfield kits are imported to the US by Manik http://www.manikllc.com/ , and you go through them for a kit. Except, if you choose the Miata drivetrain version, you deal through Flyin' Miata who do the builder support on this version. They have a price and option configurator here: https://www.flyinmiata.com/westfield/configurator.php There is a Hayabusa version as well as one based on the S2000. Dan

The first step was to pre-coordinate with the regional (not local) DMV office. Then, I had an appointment with the local Motor Vehicle Theft Division of the police, who come to your place rather than the other way around as they want to see your shop and decide you're not using stolen parts. After a short discussion, they decided it was a replica 1962 Lotus, rather than a 2014 Westfield. It could have gone either way. I think the insurance was next and they used the Westfield VIN and understood that might change (which it did and we corrected the insurance forms). Then I was at the tax office (not the local DMV) registering another out-of-state car as I was moving into TX at the time. I showed my paperwork so far and told the clerk I still needed to get weighed and inspected and asked what's the chance of getting a temporary tag for that? She said: "here you go..." I paid the temporary tag fee and left with a big smile. It seems the clerks have some leeway to exercise judgement and I was the pinnacle of politeness.

When I registered and Titled my Westfield in TX, I got a temporary tag.

Sorry to hear about this. If you're in the mood to make repairs, the easiest first step is the windshield washers. Here are some low cost complete kits. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=universal+windshield+washer+kit The hard part is finding a place for it. Also, I don't know how well a Westfield windshield will fit, but it comes with electric defrost and etched "Laminated" glass. And here's a collection of front turn signals, some of which are visible from the side. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/10980976/d/motorcycle-turn-signals

I was working with Roush Engineering a few years ago (I was their customer on a development program). One of the engineers there that I respect told me there are huge differences between the good stuff and the cheap stuff. He recommended either going to the dealer for oil changes or using Mobil 1. Also on a more personal note, when I was a young squirt I started my driving career using what my father used: Quaker State oil. This lasted several years. I had a POS 1976 Honda CVCC that burned oil and left varnish on the inside of the valve cover, etc. It got steadily worse until it only got 200 miles per quart. I switched to Castrol GTX and the consumption went to 600 miles/quart and the varnish disappeared. This was ~1986. (That car had problems that you only see in Hollywood movies)

Must have been this deputy: http://www.criminalgovernment.com/docs/rel/kern_co_sheriff_lg.jpg

Yow! That's a lot of really nice work. I'm an amateur machinist. There's a museum along these lines north of San Diego and one of the exhibits is from a guy who makes these outrageous models with just a dentist's drill. http://craftsmanshipmuseum.com/modelmus.htm

What does a blonde put behind her ears to attract men? Her ankles.

Not familiar with the Alpha ECU specifically, but it seems wrong that it is extremely hot to the touch. There's a reason many cars have them mounted inside the car and not in the engine bay.

Porsche's SUV is a higher fraction of their profit than any other model. I would hate to see a Lotus SUV though.

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the club. If you are looking to lower the brake pedal force, something less boosted than a vacuum servo may be worth looking into. Going to smaller bore on the master cylinders may be a big enough difference. My car has no brake booster and, yes, it's harder to push than my other cars, but certainly less than a factor of two. Dan

That's a really nice trip. If we still lived in Mojave, we would go along. I took my car on the Caliente-Bodfish rd and got motion sick. :blush: No problem on the motorcycle. Have fun! Dan PS on the Tehachapi-Lake Los Angeles leg, you might consider a detour from the Tehachapi-Willow Springs Rd, take a left onto Oak Creek to Mojave. You drive through several hundred windmills if you're interested in that kind of thing. My avatar photo was taken just off that road. Then just south of Mojave on 14, turn right onto Silver Queen. That'll take you back to your plan.

In my experience, when someone starts to rag on me about safety, I tell them about my motorcycles. That has always stopped them.

I don't disagree with the above comments, and I strongly agree with driving one. My personal requirements were: Daily Driver, Looks Good, Reliable (part of the Daily Driver requirement) and under $30k. I liked the looks of the Birkin, Caterham, and Westfield. I never found a Birkin for sale under $30K, and all the Caterhams for that price looked ratty and were going to need serious maintenance. So the choice was easy. I could get a new Westfield under $30K but I would have to build it. Using the drivetrain from a wrecked Miata was not a problem for me, as they routinely get over 200k miles and my car would never get that many miles. Business took me to England, so I visited the Westfield factory. I was favorably impressed and they sell 250 cars/year, about an equal mix between kits and factory built cars. In 2 years and 3000 miles, the only unscheduled maintenance was to pull the megasquirt and reinstall the Miata ECU. My only regrets were that I should have driven it more in SoCal before moving to West Texas where there are no hills and the roads are straight. But I had to build it.

Don't know what the machine shops would charge, but you can buy that belt sander for 80 bucks. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-x-36-inch-belt-6-inch-disc-sander-97181.html and at the end you will still have the tool.