Jesse D

I put these in my 93 two years ago as a response to head on rollbar issues resulting from putting in an FIA bar because I'm too tall for the standard bar. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/4144-seat-composite-carpet-slr-500-fixed.html I've been pleasantly surprised by the comfort of these seats on the road. Mine are fixed location.

I just bought an EVO2 so I can report once I start using the car. It is clear from looking around that many people don't understand batteries and charging at all and ruin lithiums by letting them discharge too far or just as bad, keeping them on a charger that is not made for lithium batteries.

I'm a fan of the way their business is developing and will watch your auction with interest. I may put my Z3 up this spring (the one I "sold" to buy my Caterham but haven't actually got around to it yet.) I do know the people there like good pictures and an engaged seller that keeps up with the comments. Good luck.

No Mike, they haven't run that one in a while. I probably watched you that day, it is one of the things that drove me to my Seven- it looked like so much fun. Currently we run at an overflow lot at the airport, a local BMW dealer and a couple of LL Bean parking lots up in Freeport. Bigger lots, but locations where no one can easily see us, which I think is a shame. Simple local autocross is really easy to do and I think if more people saw it, they would try it. Being Maine, a few people run pickups- would you believe a properly set up Chevy midsize has great front rear weight distribution, according to the owner, who does pretty well.

There is what appears to be a well put together 914 on Bringatrailer right now- ending tomorrow. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-porsche-914-v8/

My apologies to the group for starting a thread and not keeping up. In sort of order . . . . 1. I don't know if I have adjustable spring perches- were they a standard Caterham feature in 1993? 2. After a summer's use, it turns out ride height was never a problem with the 15 inch wheels (which are the dark ones), and the beavertail I had put in the trailer I bought means no difficulty in driving the car right in- the race ramps I thought I needed weren't needed. The one inch measurement was done by just laying a measure across my existing tires, I forgot that only half of that improves the ride height, Sean's numbers are right, thanks.:-( 3. Most importantly the car is perfectly comfortable driving, even after I put in fiberglass seats with no cushions to lower my head height a little and allow for proper harnesses- this is a pleasant surprise. 4. I just don't like the look of the 16" Caterham silver wheels. I'm headed in the direction of keeping the 15s with the Avons for autocrossing and the little track use that I might do, and getting something in the minilite style for street use- maybe 14's there with a higher profile tire. I just don't like the big rim look, though I'm not sure about 13's. My autocrossing skills could be classed as beginner but with some skill developed over the years. It is clear the car is much better than I am as my times are not too far off the best times posted (this is local Maine autocrossing, pretty low key. The Avons seemed great for this purpose, given what I know. I also know I won't be driving in the rain unless caught (I'm usually without the top) and my street driving will not be that dramatic either- autocrossing is the fun place to find the limits rather than the street for me- I must be old.

My 93 Caterham HPC with the 2 liter engine weighed 1480 with me and a full tank of gas on the scale at the local scrap metal place. Subtract me and the gas gets 1250 lbs. No spare tire or top or windows.

I tore the rear passenger fender/wing off my car last Sunday while autocrossing. Caught the last cone before the finish and sent it up the backside of the rear tire between tire and fender- easily removed the whole fiberglass fender. I knew this was a hazard, and know there are mods/add ons that help prevent this. What do people more experienced than me like for this job? My exhaust is driver side and runs all the way to the rear of the car.

Great result. Congratulations.

I do a lot of trailering, my boat especially, so I've learned about tongue weight. You really do want 10-15% of the total trailer/load weight on the tongue. Cutting this down to keep your tow vehicle level is asking for trouble. The trailer I bought for my Caterham is at the other end of the spectrum, as it is enclosed. Made in NH, it is a motorcycle/snowmobile trailer but has been great for me behind an RV or my pickup. Not cheap but my brother was buying and it has other uses. http://www.nhtrailers.com/multisport.htm

As a data point for you, I replaced the seats in my 1993 Caterham (which I bought happily off an ad here-http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?9612-For-Sale-1993-Caterham-HPC) with the Tillett unpadded fiberglass seats for Caterhams and I have been very pleasantly surprised with the comfort level. I planned on getting padding but to date haven't felt the need, and that includes a few country drives on roads not in the best shape.

Anybody just drive with a helmet on? Solves all the problems and if you look like a fool, no one will know who the fool is.

1.3 gallons a second . . . . . . . . .

My best guess turned out to be correct and everything works properly when I wired it up, so problem solved.

Sorry, uploaded my drawing as a pdf by mistake- here is a jpg.

Note to self- do not work on your car when you are tired/sick. I decided last weekend to replace one of the scuttle grommets on my 1994 Caterham as the old one was frayed. The items running through this grommet (just above the steering column) are the speedo cable, the windshield washer tube, and the wiring for the aftermarket radar detector installed by a previous owner of my car. In the course of unplugging various things to replace the grommet I somehow pulled three of the four wires off the back of my ignition switch without realizing I was doing so, so I have no idea which wire goes where. Sigh. See note to self. My electrical knowledge is very limited, meaning a voltmeter can be a dangerous tool for me. I'm hoping that one of the knowledgeable folks here can set me right after having a chuckle at my expense. Attached is a diagram of the back of my Lowe and Fletcher ignition switch. The upper right has two mounts with 15 as a label. These two mounts are close enough together that it appears one of the ganged wires below could fit over both mounts, but that is not the case- only one of the ganged female mounts will fit over a prong on the switch. The lower right has a single prong labeled 30 The lower left has a single prong labeled 50 The upper left has a single prong labeled P and R Playing with a voltmeter as a continuity tester and the ignition switch shows that the lower right prong labeled 30 makes a connection to both the upper left and the upper right prongs when the key is turned to the first position and makes a connection to the lower left prong labeled 50 when the key is turned to ignition. The other prongs have no connections to each other. The wire that didn't come off was attached to the upper left (marked P and R) and is a fused power wire that I'm pretty sure goes to the radar detector. The other wires available that pulled off are * Two brown wires with female mounts that are ganged together with a bridge. These wires have 12 volts running through them. * Two white wires with female mounts that are ganged together with a bridge. No current running through them. * a single white wire with a red stripe that has an appropriate female connector. No current running through it. These wires run right into a taped harness so no way to trace them by hand. I do see a white wire with a red stripe coming off the solenoid attached to the starter motor Based on all this my best guess it that the two brown wires should go to the lower right prong labeled 30 as the source of power and the other wires should go to upper right and lower left. I assume one of these wires provides power to everything, and I'm guessing that is the two ganged white wires and they go to the upper right and that the single white with red wire is the starter wire and should go to the lower left prong, but I very much want to do this correctly the first time and not turn a simple problem into a more complicated one- everything was working fine before the wires came off:-) Can anyone here save me from my carelessness. Thanks in advance. Caterham Ignition.PDF

Thanks for that- great exhibit.

TireRack's business model is based on the fact that you can UPS an assembled tire/wheel combo (mounted, balanced and pressurized). I would think your's could be shipped that way- and it isn't too expensive.

BringATrailor has a nice Westfield Eleven up in this week's auction- don't know if that has been mentioned yet.

From the other side . . . . . When I got the hankering to buy a Seven last summer/fall I started on the internet looking for a dealer, as I'm not knowledgeable about these cars, just wanted one since 1964 and finally getting around to it. Found Chris at Sevens and Elans so proved that there was someone who could take care of my car for me, but he had nothing suitable for sale. A little more internet work got me to this forum and the car I bought. I would absolutely get a good description and pictures going on this site. My concept was buy in November, sell in May, so this spring I will be on the opposite side, trying to sell the pristine BMW that started this whole thing for me. I will try for BringATrailor or sell it locally.

Macs have a default setting of higher security than most pc's. I wonder if your mac browser is set to delete cookies after every session. Newer systems also have a Password saving utility that may be set to delete- do you have other sites where your password is saving?

Looking through the threads here I couldn't find a quick answer to my question so figure there is always room for one more on the basics. My Caterham came with two sets of wheels, 15" and 16". Currently has 195/45R15 Avon CR500s and 205/45R16 Goodyear Eagle F1s fitted. With the 15s fitted I have less than 3" clearance under the engine, and it has proved difficult for trailering and I suspect for driving Maine's back roads. I hope to do a little autocrossing/track driving so plan to use one set of wheels for "street" and one for "other". My question is specifically with how best to get a little better ride height for the street. I'll gain about an inch with the 16s right now but I'm wondering if the way to go is to fit a higher profile tire to the 15s for street use and keep a lower profile on the 16s or the reverse. Comfort vs. handling is the other question. What say the experienced folks here? FWIW, I like the look of the 15s better, today at least.

On my first drive I pulled up to a stop sign with my left blinker on. I had noticed a jeep behind me hustling to keep up and he pulled up on my right and immediately put his window down and started asking questions. This went on for a while then he said cool and put up his window and waited for me to turn. I had to signal him and when he rolled down his window tell him that I couldn't see through his car and couldn't turn until he left. We laughed and he pulled away.

As the resident sailor here, my guess is starboard, which means right oriented to the front. They can't use right or left or up and down or cardinal directions, so ship terminology makes sense. Now if it was RTFM . . . . . .

Don't know if this is the right place to post, but through Hemmings site I just stumbled across this 1967 Seven being sold at F40 Motorspoprts, of "Chasing Classic Cars" fame. http://www.f40.com/inventorymanager.php?action=view&Id=391277 Not many details yet.