Jesse D

I have those seats in my 93 SV and love them- much more comfortable than padded seats for me.

I'm in the thousand mile range each year, which is just about right for Maine. When I bought my 93 used off this list, Chris T had another with more horsepower, but I'm glad I bought the one I did- I get pangs for more, but it's just about right. I'd wanted one from when I was 15 or so and tried to convince my father that a kit was a good idea, and finally bought in my mid 60's- worth the wait.

Easy to do, harder to do well, especially in clear carbon. You'll want to fill the holes flush and strong before you lay cloth over, and follow vacuum bagging instructions if you want it to look right. Nothing about this is particularly difficult, but getting it flat and smooth and with the carbon cloth running straight takes some skill.

What you are seeing is either scratching or most likely UV damage to the epoxy that is the surface layer of your carbon part. You can temporarily brighten it with polish and if wax or sealant was regularly applied from the beginning you can prevent it, but once it's there you can't sand/buff it back. The black color just attracts UV heat and thus damage. Some manufacturers put a clear coat on top of the epoxy, especially for exterior parts, and that you might be able to sand and refinish. Most carbon bits on a boat end up being painted and more and more are painted from the beginning, as the deterioration in a carbon part like a mast is very real and can end up structural. I don't think a carbon dash is in any way structural:-)

I have a tube bar almost identical in shape to panamericano's. Fiberglass is one part of these cars I'm good at, and I can tell you that these Caterham's glass parts are not very strong and will crack from flex at very little provocation- I took a tiny chip out of the top of my passenger fender from a cone, probably because I was going very fast when I hit it and I had strengthened the lower parts of the fender with carbon and so the energy just went to the top curve. The fenders are made using chopped mat- I didn't see any evidence of cloth when I repaired both fenders. Next winter I'll strengthen the entire lip. The good news is that the gel coat finish makes for easy spot repairs that are invisible if your color match is good- that is a big advantage over paint.

One of the specific reasons I bought my 93 Caterham was to take up autocross. My theory was "buy the perfect car, so all the mistakes belong to the driver- best way to learn". I still tell people that, and believe it. Took a while, but finally the regulars suggested new tires and soon after that suggested slicks, as the car runs in DM anyways. Found some 13" wheels, ran Hoosiers for two years and this summer have done one event on a new set of Avons. Slicks are fun. I disconnected my anti-roll bar to help the Avons fit, but my first impression is that mechanical grip is improved- these cars are so light.

Thank you, the circlips are the answer. No allen wrench holes however. Appreciate the help.

Thanks Bruce, I appreciate the adjustment advice. Unfortunately at this point I'm still in a quandary as to how the droplinks are fastened. Both top and bottom have nylock nuts and nothing protruding more than a hair beyond the nut, so nothing to grip at that end. I'm reluctant to mess with it much given the difficulty of getting any parts right now.

I have a 1993 Caterham with a De Dion rear and an anti-roll bar. The attached photo is of the driver's side. I would like to be able to adjust the anti-roll setting which is currently on the softest setting. The droplink that connects the axle assembly to the anti-roll bar has threaded rods top and bottom that pass through the anti-roll bar and the axle assembly with nuts on the back side. I have a builder's manual for the car (I didn't build it) so I believe I understand the assembly. When I began to turn the nut on the backside of the anti-roll bar it was clear that the nut and rod were turning together and the threaded rod was backing out of the droplink. My questions are this. First, am I correct that the droplink is unloaded at rest and I can safely back the rod out without damaging anything, and disassemble the other end however it comes undone and fix the threaded shafts into the droplink with loctite so they work correctly. It certainly feels unloaded. Second, is the length of the droplink crucial provided both are the same length. One of the reasons I'm considering adjusting the setting is that the slicks I run when autocrossing rub slightly on the droplink at the anti-roll bar end (you can see the gloss). Shortening the droplink would move it closer to the center of the wheel and away from the fattest portion of the tire- going to a higher setting on the antiroll bar would do the same thing. I'd like to be able to adjust the setting but leave it on softest if that suits the car the best. My thanks for your thoughts.

Just put them on and passed inspection in Maine- sorry I know that isn't much help but closer than a lot of folks. As a data point, the speed I can drive with a ball cap on has gone up by 10-15 mph, for which my mostly bald head is grateful.

I bought my Caterham four years ago from the Cars for sale section on this group after having Chris (Sevens and Elans) drive down and look at it with me in NJ as he had built it in 1993. He has been very helpful to me since, and while I wish he was still nearby in Mass., I don't begrudge him the warmth of Florida. Most recently he sourced a set of Brooklands screens and stanchion for me in the last few months.

Sent you a private message- I may be able to help.

I bought a building a few years ago when I owned a business that dealt in fabric. It had been an auto shop with a concrete floor that had stains and cracks. I had the floor polished and the result was remarkable. It was less expensive than any alternative I could find and resulted in a floor very easy to wash, sweep and keep clean. It will stain from oil but given the way the polishing leaves a stone like appearance from the aggregate in the concrete, it is mostly invisible. In one picture the boat is center stage, sorry. And apologies for the sideways picture too. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=13939&stc=1

Quick question- do people do this on licensed street driven cars. I'm thinking of doing the swap, but am wondering about inspection etc. here in Maine. I haven't spoken to the fellow that inspects my car yet.

Come to Maine, though I'll admit you will want to pick your season, and right now is not the season.

I'm in Portland Maine and own a Caterham I bought through the for sale section of this group, with the help of Chris Tchorznicki of Sevens and Elans, who was in Ayer MA and is now in Florida. I decided building might take too long and decided to stick with a Caterham as the resale factor seems better, and Chris had built the car I bought. Haven't regretted either decision.

I put these in my 93 two years ago as a response to head on rollbar issues resulting from putting in an FIA bar because I'm too tall for the standard bar. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seats/4144-seat-composite-carpet-slr-500-fixed.html I've been pleasantly surprised by the comfort of these seats on the road. Mine are fixed location.

I just bought an EVO2 so I can report once I start using the car. It is clear from looking around that many people don't understand batteries and charging at all and ruin lithiums by letting them discharge too far or just as bad, keeping them on a charger that is not made for lithium batteries.

I'm a fan of the way their business is developing and will watch your auction with interest. I may put my Z3 up this spring (the one I "sold" to buy my Caterham but haven't actually got around to it yet.) I do know the people there like good pictures and an engaged seller that keeps up with the comments. Good luck.

No Mike, they haven't run that one in a while. I probably watched you that day, it is one of the things that drove me to my Seven- it looked like so much fun. Currently we run at an overflow lot at the airport, a local BMW dealer and a couple of LL Bean parking lots up in Freeport. Bigger lots, but locations where no one can easily see us, which I think is a shame. Simple local autocross is really easy to do and I think if more people saw it, they would try it. Being Maine, a few people run pickups- would you believe a properly set up Chevy midsize has great front rear weight distribution, according to the owner, who does pretty well.

There is what appears to be a well put together 914 on Bringatrailer right now- ending tomorrow. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-porsche-914-v8/

My apologies to the group for starting a thread and not keeping up. In sort of order . . . . 1. I don't know if I have adjustable spring perches- were they a standard Caterham feature in 1993? 2. After a summer's use, it turns out ride height was never a problem with the 15 inch wheels (which are the dark ones), and the beavertail I had put in the trailer I bought means no difficulty in driving the car right in- the race ramps I thought I needed weren't needed. The one inch measurement was done by just laying a measure across my existing tires, I forgot that only half of that improves the ride height, Sean's numbers are right, thanks.:-( 3. Most importantly the car is perfectly comfortable driving, even after I put in fiberglass seats with no cushions to lower my head height a little and allow for proper harnesses- this is a pleasant surprise. 4. I just don't like the look of the 16" Caterham silver wheels. I'm headed in the direction of keeping the 15s with the Avons for autocrossing and the little track use that I might do, and getting something in the minilite style for street use- maybe 14's there with a higher profile tire. I just don't like the big rim look, though I'm not sure about 13's. My autocrossing skills could be classed as beginner but with some skill developed over the years. It is clear the car is much better than I am as my times are not too far off the best times posted (this is local Maine autocrossing, pretty low key. The Avons seemed great for this purpose, given what I know. I also know I won't be driving in the rain unless caught (I'm usually without the top) and my street driving will not be that dramatic either- autocrossing is the fun place to find the limits rather than the street for me- I must be old.

My 93 Caterham HPC with the 2 liter engine weighed 1480 with me and a full tank of gas on the scale at the local scrap metal place. Subtract me and the gas gets 1250 lbs. No spare tire or top or windows.

I tore the rear passenger fender/wing off my car last Sunday while autocrossing. Caught the last cone before the finish and sent it up the backside of the rear tire between tire and fender- easily removed the whole fiberglass fender. I knew this was a hazard, and know there are mods/add ons that help prevent this. What do people more experienced than me like for this job? My exhaust is driver side and runs all the way to the rear of the car.

Great result. Congratulations.