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15a as required by the ECU manufacturer. I eliminated the alternator as the problem today. I'll delete and reload the base map tomorrow and try again.

I have a Typhoon 2 ECU running a 2.3l Duratec in a new Birkin. We conducted a series of initial tuning runs to improve from the base map and ran into a few problems. It turned out that the cams were off by 8 degrees (my dumb) so I had to halt the tuning process and remove the front cover to resolve this issue. At this point, I coincidently discovered a pinhole leak in a corner weld on the fuel tank. That really brought things to a halt. All of this was resolved last week. When we started to work on the tune again, we ran into a new problem, the current issue. The engine starts and reaches a brief 1000rpm or so and then shuts down due to the ECU fuse blowing. I have been working with Tom Carlin on this as well as Simon at Specialists Components. The current thinking from Simon is that either the alternator is causing the problem when it kicks in or the base map is corrupted, allowing the coil dwell to increase dramatically (apparently this can drive the load up to as much as 31 amps according to Simon). I removed the alternator to have it checked (tested on spec) and discovered that the exhaust gasket wasn't sealing well at he bottom of the #1 exhaust port. I was getting a fuel-rich load of soot and apparently hot gases) blowing onto the diode area of the alternator. I replaced the gasket with a new one, with a thicker, more compressible inner layer and it seems better so far. I have visually checked every wire in the ECU harness as well as the continuity of all that I can access. In the course of the cam adjustment, none of the ECU wiring was modified or touched. This one is really puzzling. We didn't have this issue prior to readjusting the cams. It ran, although lumpy and rough, as long as I kept blipping the throttle but not now. We plan on loading a fresh map on Monday. If that doesn't do it, I am ready to extract the entire ECU harness and ship it back to Tom. He is as perplexed as I am. I won't be able to do much until Monday but am open to any ideas on how to resolve this.

I had no luck with that. I ended up purchasing the Ford tool (205-126). It does an excellent job of holding the pulley, however, it remains a two-man job to loosen and tighten the bolt. This was precipitated by my adjusting the adjustable cam gears and dropping the allen wrench down inside the front cover (Ah shit!). Should you ever have to perform this adjustment, wedge a clean piece of saran wrap or a fresh plastic zip-lock bag beneath the gears to avoid this calamity.

Finally time to paint the Birkin as I get close to completion. I am located near LAX but am will to drive as far as Bakersfield to get a decent shop/price. Just doing the four fenders and the nose, single solid color, no metallic. TIA

I need to remove the front cover with the engine in the car. Please don't ask why. I am looking for the Ford service tool (205-126) or an effective equivalent. The best I'm finding online so far is around $100. Any ideas?

The sensors are a relatively cheap fix. On the other hand, they are just magnets and don't wear out. If the crankshaft sensor is loose, you will need the plastic alignment guide that comes with it to reset it.

I'm good, thanks.

Found out that the nipple is for a vacuum line. It can be capped off with no consequence.

I found a pinhole leak in a welded seam on my rectangular style fuel rail. I have a spare round style with the pulse dampener. Does the nipple on the dampener need to be plugged?

For what it's worth, it's located at the tee fitting for the rear brakes, under the diff.

Not sure which fuel rail you are using but the one with the round cross-section has a round pulse dampener brazed to it. Ford eliminated it on the one with the rectangular cross-section. I have heard that it doesn't make much difference but maybe your experience suggests otherwise. I am inclined to agree with the fuel pump probability. Are you running a swirl pot in the fuel system?

When I compare the new Ford Focus starter to the Ranger starter, The differences are a little different than I suspected. First of all, the motor itself is physically smaller, maybe by 15-20%. The gear diameter and throw are the same but the shaft that it rides on vs the mounting face makes it offset, such that it rides closer to the flywheel teeth. From the smaller motor, I presume that it will produce less torque but that wasn't an issue in spinning the motor. From what I see on Rock Auto, the Focus starter is also less expensive. $70 vs $115 for a new "oem" unit. I only had to make one adjustment to optimize the fit. There are two long retaining screws that run the length of the outside of the motor, holding the assembly together lengthwise. The forward mounting boss needed a bit of grinding in order to avoid touching the side of the block. Only needed to remove 0.05" or so.

Figured it out this morning. The "throw" of the starter gear is correct but the diameter of the gear is too small. It seems that the Exedy flywheel is for the Ford Focus version of the Duratec 2.3 and that flywheel diameter is slightly smaller than the 2.3 in the Ranger. The new starter is on the way.

Yes. The starter spins fine. When I get it off tomorrow, I'll double check that it spins in the correct direction. Good thought.

As I get ready to start the motor for the first time (Duratec 2.3l), I wanted to crank it with the starter (plugs out, ECU, coolant and fuel pumps disabled). Starter spins great but no flywheel engagement! This is a new stock Ford starter and an Exedy ZF502 flywheel. I'm a little tied up this weekend but plan on pulling th starter on Tuesday to check the bendix spring. AAARRRGH!!! What am I missing? Has anybody else had an issues with either the starter or Exedy flywheel in this manner? TIA

Thanks. I have the hood in the garage attic right now while I complete all of the detail work in the engine compartment. From what I can see, I might have a bit more to "finess" at the corners than you.

No idea really. I'll take a look at mine tomorrow and let you know what I find.

On the 2.3, the knock sensor fits with a 10mm bolt (?) to a threaded boss below the induction system and just above the crankcase vent housing between #2 and #3. I have a stock sensor that I can send you as the Typhoon ECU that I am using doesn't utilize it.

Beautiful job. I'm building one in LA. How did you get the hood to fit so well?

I have a set of injectors that I had reconditioned last year at RC Engineering (Torrance, CA) in anticipation of using them in my Duratec 2.3l. As it turns out, the Typhoon ECU wiring harness connectors dictate that I use a different series injector. As can be seen from the attached report from RC, these injectors are now in perfect condition. Yours for the cost of the reconditioning, $100 plus shipping.

You could go to a GPS driven speedometer. VDO offers several faces and sizes.

In constructing my Birkin, I anticipated that problem and had a trapezoidal aluminum tank (approximately 1.5 liters) welded up by my local Welder. It sits above the differential and immediately behind the rear cockpit bulkhead.I looked at a number of them on eBay, etc but wanted to retain the ability to utilize the fiberglass boot insert and didn't want to mount something up front or outboard of the fuel tank. I use a Facet low pressure pump to fill the surge tank and that, in turn, gravity feeds a Walbro 392 that pushes the fuel up to the fuel rail. The return from the fuel rail runs through a stock (?) Ford pressure regulator with the return dumping into the surge tank. Any overflow from the surge tank returns to the main tank. The engine goes in this week so I should know how well it works in a week or two. I did have to buy a number of -6 fittings but I found a good deal on blemished -6 SS hose. I pressure checked each section after assembly and am keeping my fingers crossed that everything is sealed up well. If I can resize my photos correctly, I will post a couple of shots.

When I last spoke with John, several months ago, he said that his wife was having health issues. Hope it's nothing too serious.

I used to fly the skydiving club on Sunday mornings at Ft. Stewart, GA back in 1970. Looks like they were going for a 7 man formation of some sort (star?). We used a UH-1 with the doors off. We dropped them from 13,500' so they could get the 60 second freewill. Much safer to form up on the skid before letting go. Being in a chopper, the pilots never had chutes. With a light fuel load, we could get 8-10 guys in the back. Truthfully, I was never much interested in jumping out of airplanes.

I'm looking for a sheetmetal shop that can accurately punch 48-50mm holes in an aluminum air filter backing plate. I am also looking for a shop that can do clean mandrel bends and beads on 1 ¼" od annealed aluminum tubing. I need a couple of tight 90s. Near West LA would be helpful. TIA