papak

Can anyone tell me the width of the scuttle on an SV? I’m trying to determine if it is the same as my wide body Birkin (SS3XS).

My tool is from Massive and measures exactly 38.55mm. It’s the purple one. I believe that the tool kit came with two of them. I kept the one for the Duratec and got rid of the other.

Thanks for the info. I used the same one that I loaned you so Ill have to recheck mine as well. I would just get the appropriate metric bolt and cut it down to the correct dimension. I wasn't aware of the exact measurement.

I sold my BMW Z4 coupe to a fellow from 3 states away. We had a lengthy phone conversation about the car along with emailed photos and determined that it was exactly what he was looking for. He was quite knowledgeable about the car and I was able to answer all of his questions. He flew down a few days later with a cashiers check in hand for the asking price and proceeded to drive it home (a 1000 mi. journey!). Knowledgeable buyer, accurately presented car - no problems. We never discussed any other payment strategy.

We did it all with the correct weight in the seat and fuel quantity considered as well. All the work was done on sliding plates.

According to Tom Carlin, the starting point for the alignment is as follows: The front ride height should be set by adjusting the spring perches so that there is 300mm between the upper and lower mounting bolts (center to center). The rear ride height should be set the same way to result in 5 13/16" between the ground and the bottom of the frame rail jacking point at the front of the rear wheel well. This should result in the rear being being ⅜" higher than the front. Once this has been done, set the front and rear camber to ½-¾ degree negative. Toe in should be 1/32" front and rear. The castor is pretty much determined by the front uprights. Mine measured +9.5 degrees. Shocks set to full soft for the street, firmer at the track. I had a local race shop (Johnson Alignment, Torrance, CA) do mine along with corner balance. I opted for ¾ degree camber and .03" toe-in. My rear ride height ended up ¾" higher than the front. F/R balance was 46.6%/53.4%. While I haven't been to the track with it yet, the handling on the street (and on/off ramps) has been nice and well balanced. I will probably firm up the shocks a bit as the bump stops are ending up pretty high on the shafts after a drive around town. Of course, I'm driving in Los Angeles and the roads here suck. With a car this low, you pay a LOT of attention to the road surface when driving. I have 2" clearance between the surface and the sump guard . I am seriously considering a Raceline dry sump for this reason. Hope this helps.

I’ll dig mine out and post tomorrow.

I needed to replace the rubber fuel filler hose between the filler and the tank neck and found this site "tanksinc.com" They supply fuel tank components for hot rods and others (like us). Part #53C, 2" id x 8" with a 30 degree bend moulded in. Cut it down a little and it fit perfectly! Very reasonable price as I recall.

I just found is place online while looking for a vent check valve. Very reasonable line of filler caps and fittings. I have no affiliation with them. fillernecksupply.com

Rogers usually has some lightly used stuff. Worth a try.

Try jollyrogersmotors.com or britishwiring.com

My granddaughters dream!

Not sure if it would help but on the advice of Tom Carlin, I decided to attend to the ground system with great care. I have a ground strip behind the dash that is connected directly to the battery ground. Everything behind the dash grounds there. I also have one at the rear of the car for the fuel pumps, lights etc. That is also wired directly to the battery. I also have a #4 cable running from the battery ground to the aft bolt on the exhaust manifold. I might have other stuff happen but I DO NOT have any ground issues. I am on my third O2 sensor (???) but other than that, I have had no problems. I used 14g wire for the connections between the ground strips to the battery with all connections crimped, soldered and heat shrinked. Once the individual grounds are screwed to the ground strips, hit the screws with green Loktight. You can then measure the continuity with an ohmmeter from each device to the battery, switch off and switch on. if there is any resistance, at least you will know where to start. You can't rust any grounds to the chassis due to the varying density of welds, brazes and riveted structures. I have restored several old race cars over the years and this strategy has always worked.

John Esposito at Quantum (*(203-463-8299‬) can be quite helpful. He has been rebuilding these boxes for years and usually has a lot of random parts for T-9s.

Once it is elevated, I rest the front on the frame on a 2” steel pipe supported by jack stands on each side. If you remove the front wheels, you can spread the jack stands sufficiently to give you a lot of space under the front of the car. I bolted a plywood panel to a low transmission lift ($79.99 courtesy of HF). This extends far enough back to support the tail shaft of the transmission as well as the sump. Once everything is disconnected, just lower the lift and roll the complete drivetrain out the front. When you replace the rear seal, be sure to apply sealant to all of the rubber sealing surfaces. Also apply sealant around the shifter rod that passes through the front of the T-9. The paper gasket is insufficient to provide a true seal. I had to pull mine to fix this one.

Great idea regarding the 944. I used to race one and probably threw mine away once I converted it to a track car. I would imagine that the jack from a Miata would be small as well.

What is the lowest profile scissor jack? I'd like to pick up a used one for longer trips.

Aren't they treated as motorcycles for licensing?

I went this morning and was the only 7 until a Superperformance showed up late. Some nice iron! One guy even had plates for his Lotus 23. It was my first true blat since completing the car. Its worth getting up that early to avoid the traffic and enjoy the unencumbered ride up PCH. Now I'll start branching out more.

Are you doing this with the engine installed in the car? If so, you would probably want the factory tool, a rectangular steel plate about 20"x4". It is drilled to accept two large bolts (nominally 1/2x4") that fit between the webs on the pulley. The other end has a ½" square hole for a breaker bar. This would hold the pulley and relieve the pressure on the alignment bolt on the nose of the engine while you apply torque to the crank bolt. I have one if you need to borrow it. If the engine is out of the car and the bell housing is removed, Go to a VW parts shop and purchase a flywheel holder. Shouldn't be more than $10. This will bolt to a bell housing attach point and it's teeth will lock the rotation of the flywheel. It's not a perfect fit but it works. As an old FV racer, I had one in the bottom of the drawer.

If I connect a laptop, we can monitor TPS in real time as well as injector pulse width, lambda and anything else there is a sensor for. The problem we have is that road performance under load is not showing any TPS signal. What differences did you encounter with the P&G?

I'm throwing this one out to the brain trust. I have a Typhoon ECU on a 2.3l Duratec with Jenvey throttle bodies and a Colvern 17 TPS. When we calibrate the TPS with the engine off, it is perfect (It should be as it is new). When we record an engine run for later analysis, the recorded TPS data shows 0. Performance wise, there is a clear problem coordinating throttle position while running. I have heard that the Colvern TPS is known to have several failure modes. I have verified the wiring continuity. There is no unusual heat source affecting it. No adjacent wiring to cause interference. Is there a better alternative TPS? The Standard TH 265 could work with some modification. Any ideas?

The Ford part number is D4ZZ-7600A.

I seem to recall getting one for my 2.3l from Rock Auto pretty cheap.

Always available. Just drop me a line here. It should be back on the road in a week or so.