papak

A CF panel was going to run about $400 so I cut a new one from .060 aluminum and covered it with a CF textured vinyl overlay. Probably $30. The holes for the gauges were made with punches, generally available online. I bought the 3 ⅛” one used on e-bay. The finished panel probably weighs an ounce more that the CF one.

As I recall, I ordered it directly from VDO. The gauge is a 3 ⅛" Cockpit series 120 mph speedometer (PN 437-151), $199.00. The sender is PN 340-786, $140.99. There is a jumper arrangement on the back of the speedometer in order to pair it with the sender. Both need a 12v supply. The GPS receiver is line of sight of course so the signal goes away in tunnels and garages but resumes very quickly when back out in the open. The speedometer has a digital odometer and trip recorder. I chose to mount the receiver on the top of the scuttle (as shown in the attached photo) but may fabricate a mount for it at the top of the rear cockpit bulkhead between the seats as I never use a top on the car. In the present location, I have to get behind the dash to disconnect/reconnect whenever I remove the scuttle. Pain in the ass.

I just run a VDO speedo mated to a GPS receiver. I'm sure then combo was less than $300. Never worry about tire sizes again! Bullet-proof reliable and no vibration issues. Tap and plug the adapter port and the next time the transmission is out of the car, you can pull the gear off the output shaft. Every ounce counts (one less leak as well)!

ronfrancis.com sells nice pigtail connector for the reverse switch. PG-055 or PG-36. I think they are nearly identical.

I’ve got a T-9 from a V6 and that boss isn’t there. The rear one is definitely for the reverse light. I use a GPS speedo that allowed me to tap and plug the speedo drive port. I. Also removed the drive gear. Every ounce counts!

Westchester!

I like the pinstriping. Nice “old school” touch.

I have given much thought to this topic and will share the "anal-retentive" driver's boot contents. If I'm going to carry that spare tire on the back of the car, I definitely bring a scissor jack. I use an aluminum one from a Porsche 944 (3 lbs 6 oz) to which I have welded a section of 19mm coupling nut. This allows me to use the same socket that I use for the lug nuts. This is secured in the boot with an aluminum bracket. I also carry the following: ½" ratchet 6"extension for same 19mm deep socket lug nut adapter spare ribbed belt for the alternator (4 rib x14x793). I have been told that this is the smallest 4 rib belt made, therefore unobtainable on the road. special tool for the low profile oil filler cap a variety of allen wrenches, many shortened as appropriate for their application .032 safety wire small wire cutters various quick ties various wrenches in a fabric roll-up a couple clean microfiber towels and a small tube of metal polish bandaids two LED flashlights 2 spare relays my notebook that contains all of the specification, part numbers, etc pair of leather work gloves swell as a pair of nalgene gloves The top picture shows a small bag that I keep behind the seat. It hold a collapsable phillips head screw driver for the quarter-turn fasteners that secure the boot panels. On the longer trips, I carry a quart of oil and a dipstick. I use a section of ss wire as a dipstick so this simply coils up in the bag. Probably too much but it is my firm conviction that my car has been reliable only because I carry all this stuff. 5,500 trouble free miles so far...

I just tell them that I built it myself (essentially true). When they ask me how fast, I just say "faster than me". When the question of price comes up, I just say that I haven't added up the 2" stack of receipts.

I feel quite fortunate, having a Birkin, to not have experienced these heat issues. My transmission tunnel is incredibly tight as well but I have NO heat issues. In fact, I wear shorts all year round out here in SoCal when driving the car. Just visually, I have a similar array of louvers to Croc’s car. There is a layer of reflective insulating material in the tunnel resulting in about ⅛” clearance all around.

Try Nord-lock lock washers. Available from McMaster, Aircraft Spruce or Pegasus. I haven’t had one loosen yet.

I am running a Typhoon ECU (from Specialist Components in England) that I got from Tom Carlin at Birkin. Quite sophisticated and very programmable. I initially ran into some issues with the O2 sensor/controller but that has been worked out. After running it in "closed" mode for a thousand miles, it has filled out the fuel map nicely. Not that it couldn't benefit from a tune on the dyno but I haven't run across anyone out here who has any experience with a Typhoon ECU.

During a morning run in the Malibu hills. Some great canyon drives up there!

Thanks. I was hoping that the wider scuttle fitment might work. I misspoke in my initial post. I am looking for the dimension of the wider scuttle, SV/CSR. If this doesn't work, I'll probably make a mold and lay one up myself.

I am considering switching from Brooklands windscreens to a moulded aeroscreen on my Birkin. Could I trouble any of you with an S3/CSR for the dimension across the scuttle between the lower windscreen stanchion mounting points? Basically the width of the scuttle at that point. Thanks

Nice job!

Sad to hear it.

Does anybody know if Aerodynamix (aero screen supplier in the UK) succumbed to the pandemic? It seems as though their website is not running.

Thanks for the info. A friend has one in his Caterham and was bemoaning the lack of an overdrive option. I was sure someone here would have a definitive answer.

Does anyone make an overdrive sixth gear for a Caterham 6-speed?

I ran into the same issue with the Kirkey's in my Birkin. You need to use the "Drag" version of the same seat. It's dimensionally the same except no shoulder supports. I cut the supports off of my seats and salvaged the soft aluminum edge trim and tack welded it to fit the revised edges. I had a local upholsterer (hot rod guy) modify and re-cover the Kirkey upholstery to fit.