11Budlite

They run the broomstick to a structural steel tube at the front of the space frame, which would be near the nose cone. I think that's done even when you're running a windscreen because the windscreen doesn't provide any rollover protection.

You could check with GMT racing in Newtown. I'm sure they could fabricate something that would work well, but I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap.

I would bypass the master cut off switch to rule that out as a potential issue. Not sure what brand Caterham uses but some of them have been known to cause problems.

It looks like it sold via the BaT auction on 7/27/25.

Thanks Mike. I spent a lot of time putting that together, but was very happy with the results. I was disappointed I had to sell it back in 2015, but I'm really enjoying my Caterham now!

That's a Raceline water rail but that doesn't mean it's a Raceline engine or cylinder head. I had the same water rail on my Birkin with a Zetec engine but it was basically a stock Ford engine with some external mods. See photo of my Zetec from the earlier 95-97 Ford Contour design, called a ZX1. You'd probably have to remove the valve cover and check what cams it has, to see if it had more Raceline hardware in that engine.

Another nice video done by @CBuff from our day at NYST. My son had his #91 Exocet, our friend Tom had his #55 Exocet, Charlie in the #9 Caterham 420, and me in my #57 Caterham 310. It was a really fun day!

Could it be that brake fluid was sloshing around the reservoir/cap and drained down while it sat idle, or maybe it was overfilled a little to start? The reaction with the PPF seemed to indicate that it was brake fluid or similar. I'm not sure what road yuck was on track that day but I would think other cars would have been affected as well.

I mounted a bolt-on connector designed for a BT to the heater blanking panel, that way I can charge the battery without taking off the bonnet. It's circled in red in this photo. Even with the heater you should be able to find space under the dash to run a connector.

That's the way mine is too. I looked into that issue when my car was completed and supposedly that's the way it's designed.

There is an adjusment with the pushrod of the clutch M/C to move the pedal. I can't remember what position I had my pedal box mounted in on my former Birkin, but I was able to adjust everything to get the clutch to release properly. Here's a photo of the M/C pedal assy that shows the adjustable pushrod setup. Yours should be the same or similar, you just have to take off the black cover to access it.

Looks to be this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ody-hk-pc680?srsltid=AfmBOor_OAkFGho4GzxmAAM5dK6bZGQSlQkAVFu-sGtQzSlDzoeHMM9PPWE

Thanks Charlie, it was great hanging out with you. That was a fun day!