bball7754

Another option would be Dave Bean here in the US. They're listed in my copy of the English Ford Racers Catalog. Steve

Here's the update, for those of you on the edge of your seat. First, a bit more background. My Crossflow actually has 3 separate gaskets, one for the front cylinder, one for the middle two, and one for the back cylinder. I had replaced the rear cylinder gasket about a year ago. The photo is a bit blurry, but shows the setup. To pull the header off, I have to remove the muffler from the 4-1 collector, then remove the collector. Anyway, did all that (again), and pulled the rear header off. As hoped, the gasket stayed mounted to the block from the silicone gasket stuff I'd used. Pulled the header out to check the face of the flange, and realized immediately that when I'd replaced it previously I'd noticed that the header pipe was slightly proud of the flange face on one side. I was able to use a round file to bring down the pipe without touching the flange face. Put the Permatex silicone gasket stuff on the flange side of the gasket, then put it all back togther. Let it set for about 30 minutes, than fired it up. No leak. Brought it up to temp and re-tightened, and still no leak. I think I'm good to go. Thanks again for all the feedback.

Martin - That does help, although it means I may have to write off the track day. Dave - I didn't use the Permatex 300, but did dress the one side of the gasket with Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket. After I scraped the block surface with a razor, I used some steel wool to get the remaining old silicone off. At the time I wondered whether the steel wool would cause the surface to become untrue - although obviously I decided to go forward with that method. Bad decision?

I replaced the exhaust gasket on the rear cylinder of my Crossflow last weekend. Used some high temp silicone between the gasket and block, but didn't use it on the side of the header flange. Fired it up last night to bring the engine up to temp and retighten, and it still leaks. Got better after I tightened, but still not a complete seal. Realized that I hadn't cleaned the surface of the header flange, only the surface on the block, so I'm wondering whether that's causing the problem. Long intro to the real question. I have a track weekend this Sat. and Sunday. Any chance for real damage (burned valve,??) if I leave it as is? I've considered taking it apart and cleaning up the surfaces, but am worried that the gasket won't make it through the process, and I don't have another replacement. Steve

Here in MO you can purchase a 1 day permit for driving to and from an inspection. It was around $5. MN might have something similar. Steve

I've had a similar experience with my Caterham, although it would ultimately start. I have a Crossflow, so no modern electronics to deal with. But I would turn the key and get nothing. Starter didn't engage. But after numerous attempts, it would work and the engine would start as normal. Spoke to Ben, and he said that the connections to the ignition switch can become either loose or corroded. It's near the top of my list to get under there and clean things up. Steve

This just came up on Blatchat. Apparently the savings is about 20 kg. http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=166574 Steve

Interesting thoughts/observations, but I'm wondering if it's not all a bit backward. As Martin stated in his post, the 11 was designed first (1956), followed by the Seven. Steve

Quick search on Blatchat found a post where a VTEC from a CR was put in a Caterham. http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=100261 The info on their website is old and incomplete, but it gives you an idea of how it would fit. http://www.clockwisemotion.co.uk/index/cars.html There are some other posts that talk about an S2000 in a Westfield, but the links to the pictures were broken. Steve

Jerry - Thanks for the offer. Is your cleaner large enough to do a carb body? It measures approx. 7"x6"x5". Steve

Martin - Just the kind of info I was looking for. I'm really only replacing gaskets, O-rings, float pin. No slop in the bearings/shaft, so I won't be touching those. Were you able to use the Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner for the carb body of your down draft, or did you just use it for the jets, etc.? Steve

I'm in the process of doing a "rebuild" on the Weber's on my Crossflow. I've found a carb shop that will clean the bodies, covers, etc. using an Ultrasonic cleaner. My web research indicates that it's a pretty common method these days for cleaning carbs, but I remember stumbling on a post somewhere (that I can't find again) that said it was bad for the bearings. I asked the owner of the carb shop about the bearings, and he said it wasn't an issue. They only use soap and water in the Ultrasonic cleaner. Anyone have any experience with this type of cleaning for carbs? Steve

1 for LOG, and I was also going to attend the Branson gathering. Steve

Is there enough clearance if you reverse the direction the bolt is fitted and have the head on the inside? Steve

Monday's track day is at the Barber Motorsport track. Steve

Just watched it here: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jqvc74BrzQ It's also available here: Link 1 http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y1FbR47OSQ Link 2 http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fYdvCUH4Fp4 Links are courtesy of Blatchat. They seem to disappear pretty quickly, so I'd watch it ASAP. Steve

This is a well known (some would say infamous) Seven across the pond. It's currently for sale on Pistonheads. http://www.pistonheads.com/SALES/677084.htm Here is his web site for the car. http://www.the-webbs.com/k2rum/k2home.htm Steve

The hydraulic setup was on the car when I bought it. At one point I did some internet research on it, and found this: http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Neal_Ind.asp?Subgroup=Slave_Cylinder&Group1=Cylinders&Group_Name=Master+and+Slave+Cylinders If you Google "Neal Pulling Slave cylinder" you'll find other companies that sell them. It's not really attached to the bell housing, in that it just sits in that eye on the side of the housing - if that makes any sense. Steve

Took a few quick photos of my Crossflow setup. Picture from above the slave cylinder is pretty fuzzy, and the one from below was taken blind, but thought these might help a bit. Steve http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/339645948_PICT0055.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1984059153_PICT0056.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1644752622_PICT0059.JPG

I spoke with Ben about 3 weeks ago, and this topic came up. As I understood it, the change to using the Duratec did away with the need for Caterham USA and RMSCI to be separate. RMSCI couldn't sell you the engine (and tranny?) because it would violate the US reg's (essentially selling you a complete car, which would require compliance with federal safety standards - and probably other things), which is why Caterham USA had the engine program. The plan now is to have customers buy the Duratec directly from Ford. At least, that's the gist of what I took away from our conversation. Steve

There is a small possibility that I will have a scheduling/priority conflict, but if not I will definitely be at the track day. Ran at Hallett last year, and it's a great track for the Seven. Steve St. Louis

My '98 Crossflow Caterham has the hydraulic clutch. I'd give Ben a RMSCI a call. Not sure they will have the parts, but he should be able to point you in the right direction. At one point I thought I might have to replace my Master Cylinder, and managed to find this site: http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Neal_Ind.asp?Subgroup=Girling_Master_Cylinders&Group1=Cylinders&Group_Name=Master+and+Slave+Cylinders And I think this may be the slave cylinder I have (the blue one) http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Neal_Ind.asp?Subgroup=Slave_Cylinder&Group1=Cylinders&Group_Name=Master+and+Slave+Cylinders It's been awhile, and I'd have to look at my Master Cylinder to confirm which model it is. I think the conversion is pretty straight forward. You also might want to search on BlatChat. Steve

Ian - I have a 1700 Crossflow, and several years ago on a Sunday morning drive experienced the same symptoms. Had been driving for 30-40 minutes, when it started to miss, cough, etc. I finally pulled over to take a look. Nothing loose, but if I remember correctly my coil was also extremely hot. Anyway, after about 15 minutes of primarily staring, with the occasional check to see if anything was loose, I decided to start it. Started right up, ran clean, and I've never had the problem again (famous last words - figure I'm jinxed now!). Sorry I can't help with the diagnosis. Steve

Here is Derrick Walker's Series 2 that Mike mentioned. Oh yeah, that's Mike in the second picture. Steve http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/484264449_PICT0002.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/768593609_PICT0003.JPG

There's probably an evenings worth of Crossflow oil pressure posts on Blatchat. The most recent is here: http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=151607 I've stopped (pretty much) worrying about the low pressure at idle. My gauge is in bars, and I'm usually around 1 bar or less at idle (1200 rpm). The Wallage book on Crossflows states that minimum at 700 rpm is 0.6 kp/cm2 and 1.5 at 2000 rpm. The other problem I've had is with my sender. I've replaced it once, and the current one is as bad as the first. It's erratic at best - the needle will just drop to zero, then start bouncing around, then settle in. Don't know what sender you're using (mine is Caborent (sp?)), but again per Blatchat, converting to a mechanical gauge is a recommended solution. Burton's over in the UK sells the high pressure pump - I think there is also a high volume pump. Steve