bball7754

Since Ian mentioned that there was info in the Tony Weale book, I thought I'd take a look at my copy. Not to steal his thunder, but per info in the book I think your code breaks down as: CS3 - Caterham series 3 3622 - Chassis number (I think we all figured that one out. ) TC - Big valve twin cam L - Left hand drive 2 - Mark 2 Escort Sport axle It also has a section on the approximate number sequence for each year of production: 1975 From 3570 1976 From 3625 The last section seems to contradict the approx. number sequence. It lists "Major Changes" by chassis number, and includes the entry: 1977 3612 TC R First Mk 2 Escort axle Again, credit goes to Ian. Confess I wasn't aware this info was in the book. Steve

Any issues with the height of the engine, and/or width of the transmission? Skip - I thought the trans. was a tight fit in your SV? Steve

Mike - The starter is fine, and the solenoid is also, for the most part. The lead sticking out of the solenoid, which connects to the ignition switch, is not original. The connection of the lead inside the solenoid is loose. So it will work fine for extended periods of time, and then just stop. I can always start the car, it just takes two people. One turns the ignition to the "start" position, and the other (me) wiggles that wire on the solenoid. Starts immediately. Oh, and I'm trying to get it fixed before the track day at Putnam this Saturday. At this point I'm going to go anyway. I've already had to approach strangers at a gas station and ask them to turn the ignition, so I've got that process all worked out. You still planning on being there? Weather looks good. Steve

I've been wrestling with an issue with the solenoid on my starter. At this point I'd like to just replace it, but I'm having trouble tracking one down. The starter is a Magnetti Marelli. The numbers on the solenoid have worn away and are illegible. Numbers on the starter are "27048A" and Type "M79 (0.9). Date on it is "26-97". Haven't had any luck with searches on both Google and Blatchat. Any info would be helpful. Lucas or Bosch equivalent starters (if there are any), vehicle the starter was originally built for, sources for a solenoid, etc. Thanks. Steve

The Craigslist posting has expired, but from the pictures on the The Motoring Enthusiast site it looks like the car has Avon ACB10 bias-ply tires. Since he didn't know that he had a de Dion, it's unlikely that he knows that you need a different set of ears for non-radial tires. Don't know if that would cause the darty-ness, but don't imagine it's helping the situation either. Steve

Had a recent request for a photo of mine, so I have one handy. Steve

Here is a link to a post on Blatchat that covers reversing the buckle: http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=38653 And here is a link to a site with pictures and step by step directions: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/richard.a.price/Luke_harness_swap3.HTM Did I mention I spend way too much time on 7's sites. Steve

Mike - Unfortunately, just electronic ignition (no points) but no 3d. I think the cam does help. Believe my engine started life as the 135 HP spec, and later had the cam change. Steve

Although my 1700 Xflow with 244 cam has the roller rockers, my reading on Blatchat supports John's view. Roger King (UK Xflow guru) actually seems to have negative views of the roller rockers, and seems to prefer the standard valve train for highly tuned Xflow's. There seem to be many happy UK Xflow owners who have added the 3d ignition. Steve

Another option would be Dave Bean here in the US. They're listed in my copy of the English Ford Racers Catalog. Steve

Here's the update, for those of you on the edge of your seat. First, a bit more background. My Crossflow actually has 3 separate gaskets, one for the front cylinder, one for the middle two, and one for the back cylinder. I had replaced the rear cylinder gasket about a year ago. The photo is a bit blurry, but shows the setup. To pull the header off, I have to remove the muffler from the 4-1 collector, then remove the collector. Anyway, did all that (again), and pulled the rear header off. As hoped, the gasket stayed mounted to the block from the silicone gasket stuff I'd used. Pulled the header out to check the face of the flange, and realized immediately that when I'd replaced it previously I'd noticed that the header pipe was slightly proud of the flange face on one side. I was able to use a round file to bring down the pipe without touching the flange face. Put the Permatex silicone gasket stuff on the flange side of the gasket, then put it all back togther. Let it set for about 30 minutes, than fired it up. No leak. Brought it up to temp and re-tightened, and still no leak. I think I'm good to go. Thanks again for all the feedback.

Martin - That does help, although it means I may have to write off the track day. Dave - I didn't use the Permatex 300, but did dress the one side of the gasket with Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket. After I scraped the block surface with a razor, I used some steel wool to get the remaining old silicone off. At the time I wondered whether the steel wool would cause the surface to become untrue - although obviously I decided to go forward with that method. Bad decision?

I replaced the exhaust gasket on the rear cylinder of my Crossflow last weekend. Used some high temp silicone between the gasket and block, but didn't use it on the side of the header flange. Fired it up last night to bring the engine up to temp and retighten, and it still leaks. Got better after I tightened, but still not a complete seal. Realized that I hadn't cleaned the surface of the header flange, only the surface on the block, so I'm wondering whether that's causing the problem. Long intro to the real question. I have a track weekend this Sat. and Sunday. Any chance for real damage (burned valve,??) if I leave it as is? I've considered taking it apart and cleaning up the surfaces, but am worried that the gasket won't make it through the process, and I don't have another replacement. Steve

Here in MO you can purchase a 1 day permit for driving to and from an inspection. It was around $5. MN might have something similar. Steve

I've had a similar experience with my Caterham, although it would ultimately start. I have a Crossflow, so no modern electronics to deal with. But I would turn the key and get nothing. Starter didn't engage. But after numerous attempts, it would work and the engine would start as normal. Spoke to Ben, and he said that the connections to the ignition switch can become either loose or corroded. It's near the top of my list to get under there and clean things up. Steve

This just came up on Blatchat. Apparently the savings is about 20 kg. http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=166574 Steve

Interesting thoughts/observations, but I'm wondering if it's not all a bit backward. As Martin stated in his post, the 11 was designed first (1956), followed by the Seven. Steve

Quick search on Blatchat found a post where a VTEC from a CR was put in a Caterham. http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=100261 The info on their website is old and incomplete, but it gives you an idea of how it would fit. http://www.clockwisemotion.co.uk/index/cars.html There are some other posts that talk about an S2000 in a Westfield, but the links to the pictures were broken. Steve

Jerry - Thanks for the offer. Is your cleaner large enough to do a carb body? It measures approx. 7"x6"x5". Steve

Martin - Just the kind of info I was looking for. I'm really only replacing gaskets, O-rings, float pin. No slop in the bearings/shaft, so I won't be touching those. Were you able to use the Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner for the carb body of your down draft, or did you just use it for the jets, etc.? Steve

I'm in the process of doing a "rebuild" on the Weber's on my Crossflow. I've found a carb shop that will clean the bodies, covers, etc. using an Ultrasonic cleaner. My web research indicates that it's a pretty common method these days for cleaning carbs, but I remember stumbling on a post somewhere (that I can't find again) that said it was bad for the bearings. I asked the owner of the carb shop about the bearings, and he said it wasn't an issue. They only use soap and water in the Ultrasonic cleaner. Anyone have any experience with this type of cleaning for carbs? Steve

1 for LOG, and I was also going to attend the Branson gathering. Steve

Is there enough clearance if you reverse the direction the bolt is fitted and have the head on the inside? Steve

Monday's track day is at the Barber Motorsport track. Steve

Just watched it here: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jqvc74BrzQ It's also available here: Link 1 http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y1FbR47OSQ Link 2 http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fYdvCUH4Fp4 Links are courtesy of Blatchat. They seem to disappear pretty quickly, so I'd watch it ASAP. Steve