Vovchandr

So I've done digging to this in the past and couldn't really find any particular articles on this explaining the name "Super Seven". I'm sure they are out there, I just couldn't find them. When/where did the "Super Seven" moniker come from and why "super"? As a Lotus is was the model 7. Then when Lotus closed the factory on Friday and Caterham started building them on Monday it became "super"? I remember originally it wasn't called a Caterham, it was now sold in the same dealership where it used to be sold before in the town of Caterham, so the people would reference the town name more so than the model moniker. I could never narrow down the origin of the "super" name. I'm assuming that it's referring to the next iteration in the history of the model but I'm also pretty certain it didn't start from the start? What do the experts have to say?

Grindy half the time. Loud clink during the other half. I don't mean to scare you, but this is always in the back of my mind. These are race transmissions, not street transmissions. They are rough and expensive. I happen to have a plan B of regular 5 speed for the worst case scenario. I hope it lasts forever but it's certainly aggressive and its always in the back of my mind. These are not DSGs. Different generations of Sequentials had different problems too. I believe Sadev is just about as good as it gets.

Hi and welcome. Where in NY? I'm upstate if you needed somebody to check up on it What sequential does yours comes with? I assume straight cut and paddles? I have an old Quaife sequential straight cut that Caterham used in early 2000's in mine. It's... an experience. Everybody is right about it being more tedious on the street but I love it. I hear nightmares about frequency of rebuilds. I haven't reached that point yet. 620r is quite the car.

You can follow Dave Struves build for his Aeroscreen experience He had to buy two different styles because first one had a fit issue For sale thread with pictures https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18425 Build thread with pictures https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15496&start=135

Hi. There are only 2 aeroscreen models commonly available for the Caterham chassis. Regular "series 3" version and the SV, which is the wider/longer chassis. If I recall the 442 is dimentionally different from the book by 4 inches wider, but the book is also not the same dimentions as the S3. it's close but I don't believe it's the same. The SV model aero screen will be your best bet, but some fitting will likely be required.

Ah yes. Looks exactly like mine did. I actually just ordered another one to have on hand, as they definitely seem to be a "wear item". Installation of the replacement didn't go very smooth either. I was surprised to see it bow while being fixed in place. I assumed that it's normal. Seems to hold.

Is that what they mean when they say "the first cut is the deepest"? :toetap05:

Ah. Very good point. That reminds me I need to finish my SBFS order and get myself a tonneau.

Also finally figured out how to mount the poppers on the aero screen. A little confused why it's the proper way this way. It was a much tighter fit without poppers at all and it sat flush. This seems almost like a downgrade. More testing needed. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Did a few things today Found a mount for the garage opener. Was very proud until I went to test it after pulling out. It appears the chassis blocks a lot of signal from that area and it doesn't work well. Wrapped the aero screen. Still not perfect but I'm more happy with it this time around. Put the foam mats inside the fender wells to help with rock chips and noise. Chased down the electrical cluster issue that has been bothering me. Came to realize my inline fuse didn't work properly. Fuse was intact. Power was being carried on one side but failing to transfer through the other side for some reason. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Personally I'd like to add that I really wanted to have the guards on the wings but unfortunately there is no circumstances that works with the carbon fiber wings in the way I wanted. Caterham ones will match weave on one side but be opposite on other. Kcd I believe was the same. I also didn't want to drill into carbon fiber to mount them and finally I was told it was a little redundant. CF wings themselves don't get damaged but might need to be relaquered and that's where I am at now.

*Raises hand*

It's a very good looking 7. Love the gauges. Svt zetec is nice too. Are you saying you put 1500 miles over last 8 years?

Probably partially because it only averages ~666 miles a year.

Good luck. I hope you don't have the same issue of bond failure that I did. I don't believe you're using the Big heads though so you have a lot more surface area to attach to. My Sikaflex is re-curing now

Hand made! Are you planning on gluing the wings on?

Failed side with primer Waiting 7 days for full cure now Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Doubling down on ones that haven't failed Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Pictures of the failed bond after scraping remnants off fender Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

As some of you know, my glued on fenders (Sikaflex) have failed on last NJMP 7's event. Even though they drove down to NJ just fine for hours from NY, I suspect the increased temperature of hot days and track have put the glue to the limit and failed. Ironically I was prepared and I brought my bolted on spares as well. Swapped after the fail and then the bolt inserts failed next... Either way I had to wait until temperature was warm enough to reapply the adhesive. Maybe this thread will help somebody in the future as this is a pretty common subject within the 7s community. Sikaflex is generally accepted as the top go-to adhesive but it comes in many varieties as well as different ways of application. I don't glue the fenders directly on as I like the ability to take them off for service issues and other parts swapping. So I ordered the big head fasteners. I originally used Sikaflex 292i (white). One side held just fine, the other fender 3 out of the 4 have failed to adhere to the stainless Bigheads. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F8VYMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This time around not only am I switching to Sikaflex 221 (black) I'm also using the Sika recommended primer on the one side. (Sika primer 207, pretty expensive for such a little bottle!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW5LWHA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/CRL-Black-Primer-207-Polyurethane-Adhesives/dp/B0737DN7CY The primer should help adhesion to the Bighead fasteners. Being a believer of don't fix it if it aint broken, I did not redo the side that hasn't failed but I laid a generous amount of new Sikaflex over the top for good measure.

Thank you Croc! You gave me far more information that I could have hoped for. I do believe I have the regular wheels and not the ones that are machined for CSR, everything leads to that. If they were CSR and machined they should have sat more sunken not poking out. I think you're right about wingstays. I dont have one to compare on hand but mine were never matching side to side to begin with. There has been some kind of impact or other (sitting on them??) difference between how the two sat. As far as maneuvering the fenders over, no luck even without the bolts. I'm in the process of remounting the set I have with BIGHEAD fasteners (the ones I had that didn't hold up on track day) but they sit in the same location. The lip of the fender is all the way against the vertical part of the fender mount, IE "max towards out" setting/location. After I get new mounts I could take another look at the side to side mounting of the existing one and see where the difference is. Edit: and yes mine are stamped ET13

I'd like to add a small (double pun) anecdote about an S3 and myself. I'm 5'7 on a good day with the regular S3. It's an interesting experience getting in with the half hood on (SBFS). I actually have to take the steering wheel off (removable) to make it easier. With that said, I'm a big fan of the SBFS half hood. For the price you can't beat the people who are so familiar with them and do them all the time. I'd be quite surprised if you can find a local shop that can do this job without having done it before and do anywhere near as close a good job for similar or even lesser price than soft bits. Double that point if you're trying to have some kind of custom design like I did with the stripe.

Croc, this is mostly for you. Maybe new James member as well. I got my new to me set of anthracite 10 spoke from an R400. The fit seems off but I think I'm coming to terms that it's right. Somebody mentioned that they might be CSR wheels. I took the deep dive and looked into it. CSR had a different front and back. Front offset was listed as ET13 on the wheel but that doesn't reflect that Caterham machines down the face on these. Face should look vastly different by at least 1cm of machining All mine should be square 6in et13 I honestly think its the tire profile bring so square that's making it stick out more than normal. Being a smaller thicker sidewall that doesn't flex vs the 13s. So to the CSR folk, can you confirm that this isn't a CSR wheel? Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I agree. Croc thanks for sharing, I would have over looked that. The "BTS" to the build is quite interesting.