Vovchandr

A few comment points from experience I don't see the belt listed now on CC website but be careful when ordering and make sure there is an FIA time stamp on the belt. I've bought a set last year that didn't have it and that was a bad discovery to make. Other comment is one I still havent found a solution to. Since replacing the belt, my seat doesn't go as far forward as it used to as the side belts jam in between the seat and the S3 chassis and stop the seat from going any more forward. Not a problem for many but my SO being of a shorter stature is unable to drive until I figure this out. A seat job is one you want to do as little as possible. While simple in theory, on such a small chassis it's a huge PITA. It's a lot better with two people and it becomes a lot better if you find one of the DIY solutions to help the bolts stay in place for future replacements. Taking the seats in and out is also roughing up the leather on the center arm rest, which is an unpleasant result. As far as other brands etc, others can chime in with that experience. Edit: I'd like to add that I believe 6pt is pretty universally preferred to a 5pt setup.

Question for NJMP seasoned Vets My rear 888's are approaching the wear mark. They aren't on it yet but they are getting close to it. NJMP form for cars just says this "Tires: absolutely no cord showing" I'd like to finish the season off on these before getting new ones for next year. I will bring the spare set of "race wheels" just in case. I talked to Kraus about ordering a set of better tires but not sure if I want to bite the bullet on $1100 just yet this season if I don't have to. So is approaching the wear bar a concern or they literally care about cords showing?

13s for comparison Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Realized I never posted an update Got my track day/second set of wheels in and on to test The tire profile is quite different but it seems to work. More of a function over form Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

To save you some drama if you're seriously considering going this year, you will need to replace your driver side belt harness because it's likely out of date and NJMP inspection checks it. With that said, it's incredible fun to go and meet the crew and participate in 7 only session. Afaik it's the only event of the type in the country and every year it gets harder and harder to keep having it. I believe Mike and Tom are the two main organizers behind the event and go through great lengths and challenges to keep making it happen. If you have means and ability, I strongly recommend it.

Congrats. I see you found one after all without needing BaT in the end.

Never been to Texas. Came across the Reddit post while scouring the web. Shared as it seemed relevant. (not my picture)

https://i.redd.it/ksjd42lxt5f51.jpg https://old.reddit.com/r/spotted/comments/i42rxl/caterham_7_spotted_yesterday_in_dallas/ Big "USA7's" Sticker on the roll bar...

That's good to hear. I haven't test fitted my 7.5x18 enclosed yet but I don't foresee having major fitment issues. I see your trailer doesn't have the wheel cut out boxes on the inside?

Looks like it's sold? Congrats

Some first timer I'm being told. Looks like I missed it by just a few weeks. Live and learn. Still doing better than last year already with the closer hotel reservation.

Fun fact. Karting reserved every single VIP/Villa and garage. I was put on a standby list. In meantime reservation made in town nearby.

How quickly do these VIP suits fill up? I thought in being ahead of the curve this year but it's already sold out across the board.

There was a CSR Superlight variety that came in an S3??

Anybody ever try the Jack Webb solution? It seems pretty praised online. The alternative to the problem that is done by some is shimming the steering rack otherwise https://jackwebbmotorsport.co.uk/Adjustable-Bump-Steer-Track-Rod-Ends-for-Caterham-7-Pair-p109852977 Seems like a clever solution

Electrical meltdown was due to battery losing ground. Disconnecting and reconnecting the terminals got me power back and allowed me to troubleshoot further that day. I'm thinking of disconnecting cable entirely at the bodies next time I catch the issue at home or elsewhere convenient to help partition out cable entirely.

Since everybody likes pictures This problem was part of chain of problems that left me stranded yesterday. Car was running hot at idle at rest area Revs were starting to be a little hangy but I thought it would be fine Get on the highway just to have a run away rev situation with revs bouncing off rev limiter Pull over and shut the car off. Go to restart the car just to have immedeate full loss of electrical power. Taking out the hazards, at night. Convenient. Had to push the car back uphill to rest area to troubleshoot as I didn't feel safe on highway without hazards at night. Sign was very appropriate Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I'll appreciate any help I can get on the matter but this is more of a way to me to drop things down in one place and keep the thought flow going. Maybe see if anybody else has similar issues This left me temporarily stranded and having to push the car uphill at night on the highway, so I hope nobody will have to go through the same thing as me in the future. I have trapped air problems in the over flow like others do see http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?12847-Foaming-expansion-tank-at-revs-coolant-overflow-what-tank-do-I-have This could potentially lead to a head gasket, which is something on the pending list. Problem: Car runs fine. Car idles for a while/gets stuck in traffic and starts to run hotter. From dead middle at 80 to creeping into 100 degrees or so. At the same time throttle starts to hang a lot more and as of yesterday even started bouncing off the rev limiter with no further input. "run away revving" if you will. While the running hot is an issue of its own, rev hang/acceleration is more of a problem. Comments Pedal is coming back without an issue I've added extra springs to my ITBs to help the return I've adjusted the feed of the throttle cable to give it max slack possible The throttle problem seems to only happen once it starts to run hot and doesn't happen throughout the entire "running hot" period. Seems to happen and then go away/diminish as I continue on my trip TWM ITB's have never been serviced officially but have been taken apart and inspected during last event of working on the motor Sudden throttle snapping back has had varied success in the hanging throttle event. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't As the car is having the running hot event, it occasionally wants to slowly sputter and stall at idle. Giving it mild throttle helps Things that have been measured/tested ITB's flow has been tested. 3 are pretty matching at "7" at idle on the meter. One at "9" Compression test was good Leak down test was good Exhaust gasses contamination in coolant was a pass Disconnected the IAC hose to see if that causes a run away situation. My revs went to 3500 and stayed there. No run away event Things to look at still Inspect the butterflies carefully Consider TPS being an issue Would eliminating running hot solve my problem? > Do water pump/head gasket Questions with no answers Why is running hot causing the throttle issue > which parts could the heat be effecting Why is running hot causing the car wanting to stall/fail to maintain idle? Why does the issue seem to diminish/go away with time even if running hot What caused the recent run away/bouncing off the rev limiter event? What is causing the revs to hang/even accelerate without an input from the throttle?

Using an App like Tapatalk is easiest honestly. Otherwise Jpegs have to be small in upload size to be uploaded here. I think less than 2 megs? Its easiest in that way to hot link them from something like Imgur (means upload them up there and link them/embed them here)

What does South Florida testing problems have to do with California? Regardless deaths are climbing which means that the total cases has been climbing as well. I'm sure the people who are going out don't think it's a problem or a risk to them, but that's a different type of politics involved with that. Original post was about the lack of concern and that's exactly what's happening. Justified or not.

Can you post up one or two "regular" pictures of it? Kinda curious as to how it sits outside of a photoshoot

In my opinion, biggest benefit to Duratec if you're going for HP is the proven setup with a supercharger. That makes it a bolt on upgrade instead of being a pioneer trying to shoe horn something in there. With that said, Ecoboost do fit. At least the 1.5 or 1.6 one that was installed by the Euro member. He's making about 390hp and calls it an R780.

If I recall there is a 360 horsepower Ecoboost build of a 7 in Europe. He's on the Facebook group. Most engine swaps are limited in the chassis due to small size. Double so for S3 in comparison to SV. 6 speeds are common for Zetecs and Duratecs. Not sure on the Ecoboost. 6 speed the final gear is 1:1. 5 speeds the 4th is 1:1 and overdrive. Which means that 6 speed is much more of a close ratio gear box and very revvy on the highway. (I think I'm at like 5300 at 80). So when comparing the two it's not 5 speed + 1 more gear, no is it all 6 are a little more spread out, it's quite a drastic change. 6 speed fits 6 in the same speed range that 5 speed fits 4 and on top of that loses over drive for highway.

Hi welcome. What made you want to buy a Caterham? Was this a long plan purchase or something spur of the moment?

So does that mean that original graphic is not correct?