SENC

I think this is right on - the plate itself is only 1 of several important factors in determining "authenticity", and the frame is the next good place to discuss. I started with the plate mainly because it is the most obvious and most discussed, and also easiest to replicate - so my goal there was to see if we could establish any obvious parameters that might help someone establish that a plate may be real or replacement (or fake). I'll post up some frame pictures and observations later, but want to reiterate what someone has already said in one thread or another here - that we are fortunate that there is a Lotus 7 Registry and a real expert there in John Watson who can help owners evaluate what they have (or are considering buying). He and the (limited) factory logs are the best source - but it would be nice to gather as much general intel and knowledge as we can.

Some have said the original plates on S2s are the ones from Lotus Components, like this example from a 62 S2 that I found on an auction site. Has anyone seen or found anything definitive in this regard? I know Elites and Elans of the same era had plates similar to mine above, and some had plates like this - so my suspicion is that they were likely both used on Sevens, as well. Some have also said the originals were all inscribed, not stamped. I've read somewhere (but can't find it now) that early on (for Elites and Elans, at least), the plates were attached to the body at the start and so couldn't be stamped without damaging the fiberglass, but that the practice later changed to stamping them before afixing to the body. Makes sense - but does anyone know if true?

Good luck in your search, Kevin - they are special cars, indeed!

Indeed! Really enjoying riding along, Ron!

Today's update...

As I recall, it started with the S1s with the Coventry Climax engines. With the S2, Super Seven was used for the Cosworth-modified 1500 engines (both the 109E and 116E, I think). All S3s were "Super Sevens". S4s were not, until Caterham took over - and I think they used Super Seven since they couldn't use the Lotus logo.

Good idea - and if enough input on this perhaps a subsequent thread on other ways to identify cars and bits by era and maker. And I agree with @eatonhong and @Croc completely.

The 1962 Seven Project on BAT (https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-lotus-seven-4/) has raised a discussion about "official" vs repro or even counterfeit ID plates. To help those who might consider buying an early Lotus Seven one day, I thought it might be useful to gather information on the topic here. As absolute facts can often be hard to establish with Lotus, I'd like this to be a thread to share not just what is "known" but also what is speculated, rumor, and even wives tale. Perhaps enough information can be gathered in 1 place to at least assist in discernment. It doesn't need to be said here of all places, I know, but neither a plate nor numbers, nor age, nor manufacturer have any impact on the potential fun of the Seven - this isn't a thread about value in any sense. It is only intended for discussion and discourse about identification of early Sevens as it relates to their numbers and chassis plates. To get started, I'll share a picture of my chassis plate. The first picture is circa 2008, I don't know that I have an earlier picture. The second is after a little light cleanup (light because any more effort and only the stamping will be left!) - added only because resolution is likely better than the earlier photo found on the wayback machine. I have great history on this car back to its original owner, so suspect this to be the original plate, but not sure there is really a way to tell for certain. The Lotus Seven Registry website suggests the numbers could be stamped, scratched, or etched - but I've heard otherwise, too. And, for reference in case the BAT auction pics are one day unavailable, the picture of the plate for the vehicle listed.

I would not be surprised if this is the original chassis, but it has definitely been modified and strengthened. Without the plate and history, which the seller admits to not having, it could never be validated as an original Lotus. There are plenty of other indicators it is a collection of parts (dash and gauges are incorrect - the presence of the 2:1 manifold and carb make me suspect the dual webers and manifolds are aftermarket - and I think the correct bellhousing would have been the unribbed variety), but it could make a heckuva fun "bitsa" Seven. Lots of work to be done, though, and could alternatively be a nice parts buy - much of what is included are getting very hard to find. The original tank, radiator, front suspension, and rear axle have some value, as do the block and gearbox.

... and from the lotus7register site: S1 WEIGHTS: Pre-October 1959: Original 100E Ford model without spare wheel - 725lbs and Export 100E Ford model with spare wheel - 822lbs. October 1959: Ford 100E model - 918lbs and BMC "A" Series model - 896lbs. S2 WEIGHTS: Weight given in Owner's Manual 924lbs. However road test reports give: "A" Series car 960lbs. - 105E car 957lbs. - 109E car from 952/1015lbs. - 116E car from 1008/1064lbs. S3 WEIGHTS: None given in Owner's Manual. However road tests give the following:- Autosport 1969 - Lotus Seven "S" - 1204lbs. Autocar 29/1/70 - Lotus 7 Twin-Cam SS - 1254lbs. Road & Track Oct 1970 - Lotus 7 Twin-Cam SS - 1210lbs S4 WEIGHT: Laden 1310lbs. (Twin-Cam Version).

Lotus Seven Register - Home Page (lotus7register.co.uk) - a series of articles on the history under Lotus, by John Watson.

Test- fit the gearbox and final checks... hopefully back in the car in a couple weeks.

Coming together...

Great article, thanks for sharing Anker. Interestingly, the very same COSCO Vietnam was loaded just a few weeks later, the first week in December 2019, with a 1965 Seven in Southampton, to embark on an 18-day journey through European and US ports before arriving in Savannah, GA. So, that ship has carried at least 2 RHD Sevens from the UK to the States! My import process was similarly easy, and registration process similarly challenging. In my case, the NC DMV took nearly 12 months and a full-on records search and inspection by the theft department before it was finally registered and licensed - though some of that time certainly had to do with the early 2020 impact of covid on office closures and staffing issues. But all ended well and as it should have.

...and glad to hear Vlad!

Good luck, Vlad!

Finally a little progress... put in a new camshaft (fast road, slightly more lift than the A2) that fit and spins as expected, and then got the pistons in.

Slightly poor ground at chassis on cable from battery is what did the same to my Elan - took just the right circumstances to cause the issue so seemed similarly intermittent.

On rebuild, my existing camshaft was very tight on rotation at 2 points. After fully inspecting the bearings (new) and the camshaft, identified some indicators of stress on the rear journal that had it very slightly out of round - so, in search of a replacement. Does anyone have an old stock A2 camshaft laying around they'd consider selling, or have any leads?

Are they useable with positive earth and generators?

Progress, and a temporary halt. Crankshaft and oil seal installed (using the BestGasket GraphTite rope seal product). The crankshaft was in good shape and only required polishing, so found some nos vandervell bearings in the same +20s as I removed. All torqued up and ready. Ran into an issue with tappets, though. Having discovered a couple spots of corrosion on the face of one, I'd ordered a replacement set - but didn't notice until fitting that the head has an OD of 21.5mm where the ones that came out have an OD of 20.5mm. Found this as I tried to fit the camshaft and realized the tappet next to the central boss for the camshaft wouldn't seat fully. Unfortunately, I've only been able to locate 21.5mm head tappets, so off to the machine shop to get my new set turned down to size.

Not that anyone here would be fooled, but be wary of this one - marketed as largely original, it is hard to find anything original in the photos. Clearly wrong chassis, scuttle, hood, dash, tunnel, etc., etc. About the only thing Lotus I see is the id plate that someone riveted into place somewhere along the line. That said, it may be a great and fun car - just don't want anyone thinking it has any particular historic value. EDIT: I sent a note to the lister and to her credit she has responded with good questions and seems to be changing the listing.

Attaching a couple idle circuit maps that may be useful, if you don't already have them. Does the engine transition from idle to cruise (at slow throttle increase) ok and does it cruise ok? This key function of the progression circuit is fed by the idle jets and circuit, so if performing ok at those stages then I would think the only place a blockage could effect idle and not progression would be in the small chamber between. A blockage further upstream from the progression holes should cause issues on that cylinder right up until the main circuit becomes the more dominant force (3k rpms, or so, I think). Good luck, and keep us posted!

I would hunt for carb leaks and do compression and leakdown tests before jumping to conclusions. I had a similar symptom, turned out to be weak valve springs on #3 allowing a slight internal leak that reduced vacuum at idle (which, of course, meant the idle mixture screw had no effect when adjusted in or out). Bottom line, could be a vacuum leak (failed o-ring, throttle shaft shift, butterfly wear, leak around the idle mix screw, etc.) just as easily as a clogged idle circuit. The idle mix screws, in particular, can leak more than you'd expect - put some EZTurn or other fuel line lubricant/sealant on the threads to help with the seal.

POR-15 Engine Enamel, MG Maroon. This is pretty close, I think, to the way the 1500 Cosworth engines were originally painted - or in the same color family, anyway.