powderbrake

Steve: great buy..... you are going to have a lot of fun, enjoy. :hurray:

Great looking car, should sell fast.

I had a 1959 Berkeley, 2 Cycle 3 cyl 500cc Excelsior air cooed engine. I always mixed Castrol in the gas, it made it smell like a race car.

I cannot argue with this comment, and others opinions regarding the service, parts availability, pricing etc. I was just a bit concerned that it was turning into a Caterham/Superformance bashing, and that we had not yet seen the results of this new collaboration (outside of the new higher pricing),or any personal experiences. Keep calm and carry on, gentlemen.

We have had a tradition on this forum not to negatively compare cars, not to negatively comment on the other person's asking price, and in general to be a bit more gentlemanly in or comments regarding the vehicles and their manufacturers. We are supposed to be supportive of all thing SEVEN. That tradition is being stretched a bit thin regarding the latest Caterham distribution/pricing moves. If Caterham and Superperformance choose to modify their sales structure, the customers (or lack thereof) will send them a clear signal on the success of their plan. I just don't think that negative comments on their policies is in the tradition of the USA7s forum. In his last comment, Randychase took the high road on reporting on his relationship with Caterham and it's distribution network. I am sure he has some juicy stories about the people or the system, but he has chosen to keep them private. Good for him. Lets see what comes out of the new structure and I hope Caterham sells a ton of cars, they are after all, really great cars.

The price I paid to assemble my car was a "big boys toys" price. I wanted it so I got it. I don't really care about the present or future value, because I have received 100% of the cost in sheer FUN. Of course I reserve the right to hard negotiations if and when I decide to sell it.

Looks great !! I also padded and covered my tunnel cover so that my arm rests comfortably on it, while my hand is on the shifter knob.

Ultralite, 2 liter engine, 13 gallons, about 250 to 300 miles, but I never let it get that low, I generally refuel at 200 220 miles.

WElcome to the USA7S forum. What do you drive?

I replaced my Aldans that came with the kit with Qa1"s. Shocks are QA1 PN 8253, with CK8201 Coil over Kit Front springs are QA1 PN 8SM400 400# 1 7/8 ID X 8" free length Rear Springs are QA1 PN 8S300 300# You can check the QA1 website for the specs. These have worked well for me, good on the street, and within my driving ability on the track. If I was doing it over, I would use whatever WTS2K said to use. I also doubt that you can bend an Ultralite frame on a bump. I have bent some shock support bolts, and I modified that mount.

I have a similar "T" port for my car. I drilled and tapped the bottom to allow me to install a temperature sensor in the fluid path and a ground wire screw. The overflow tank is in the upper left of the pic. Also note the protective aluminum plate on the lower hose where it touches the steering shaft. There is a bleed valve in the front top of the engine block, to help you get the air out after you do a radiator fill. Do this multiple times over the first few months until the level in the "T" remains constant. I happen to like the lower steering wheel position

I understand from BruceK that my charter email address limits me to 10 meg of attachments, but Bruce K sent me one in pdf form which was smaller, so i'm good for now. thanks, Bruce

I have sent a PM with my email addressseveral weeks ago, is there something I am missing? I will send again.

I put some very heavy clear film on my fenders and it has held up very well.

I would like to get the manual, and will offer my experiences with assembling an Ultralite kit My email is in a PM I sent to you.

Made my own out of aluminum. check out this thread on Ultralite shifters http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7023

Sorry, there is no manual for an Ultralite. I was one of the first to get a kit, and never got a manual. If I can help you by sending pictures, I would be happy to do so. Send me your email address by PM. I can start with some suspension/brake pics. There may be some differences, as mine has the Fiero front spindles, and later ones had Mustang. Also tell us about the car. What color is it?, where did you get it? Who was the previous owner? Some Ultralite owners here will probably know something about it. Post some pics of what you have.

I running Falken 615k in 225/45/17 front, and 245/45/17 rear, and have done so for 3 sets of tires. They are 200 treadwear. I used them because I was tracking it in "Street" class, 200 treadwear and above at Run & Gun. There is no question that the softer compounds have more grip. They do heat cycle and become slippery before the tread is gone, so with this last set, I had them heat cycled by Tire Rack to see if thet would help the life. Well I haven't tracked the car with this last set of tires , so I don't know if it will help. On the first two sets, after about 4000 to 5000 miles the rears are getting low in tread, and thew were getting harder and slippery. I suspect the softer compounds will wear even faster..... as they say " your mileage may vary" Under hard acceleration, even if the tires aren't spinning, they are wearing rapidly. You WILL find yourself " under hard acceleration" frequently..... It's an addiction that comes with the Ultralite. Enjoy.

I really don't care what F1 technology makes it to street cars, I just want to see a good race. F1 is/should be the pinnacle of auto racing. I would love to see a no holds barred rule book. Max width and length, min weight, max engine size, max fuel load..... anything goes, let's race.

Greetings , Gunship driver, and welcome to the USA7s forum. I don't have an answer that is definite fo ryou, but I believe that size tire is going to hang out of the fenders in front, and possibly rub the fender support on the inside I'm running 7.5 wide wheels in front ,and 8 wide in the rear. The tires are 225/45/R17 front, and 245/45/R17 rear. There is less than 1 inch clearance on the insides of the front tires to the fender supports pics at this location http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3769

Here's my Ultralite. Important stuff in front of driver, Oil pressure, water temp, rev lights. Tach and speedo in center, really don't much look at the tach when on the track, the rev lights are right in my field of view. Fuel and volts in a symmetrical pattern. Circuit breakers on the right. (Ultralites don't have fuses, all circuit breakers) The thing in the center of the windscreens is my Valentine 1 radar detector, and since I can't hear it well, I have a Valentine remote audio control under the dash on the left hand side, connected to an earbud. The detector is upside down, on a visor mount, so it simply slips onto the edge of the hood. It is wired directly to the 12 volts(with a fuse) Starter to the left of tach, HI OFF LOW headlight switch between tach and speedo, you can see the two green turn indicators (one next to fuel gauge), and the turn signal is a LEFT OFF RIGHT toggle switch on the left side of the dash (out of sight in this pic) Ignition under dash at right center, Blue light at far right of te circuit breakers is the Anti Theft indicator ( you have to have the Honda key) , and you can just see part of the computer over the passenger's knees. The black thing directly below the speedo is an i phone holder The reason for the empty space on the dash is the support in the rear, which is inconveniently placed.

And Ultralite owners :drool:

My Ultralite has a 7 on the grill, since it is a replica/clone/copy/imitation of a Lotus 7, and it has a WCM Ultralite badge on the nose because that is the company that manufactured the kit.

Someone referred to a Stalker as a Storker. There were some less than happy feelings about that person and the thread, and it has become an inside joke.

an innovative and clever solution to a problem. My hat's off to him.