powderbrake

I know what you mean by being excited by a build. Many years ago , my son wanted a dune buggy, I agreed to foot 1/2 the bill, and help him build it. I did instigate two rules, And while I kept to them, it was really hard when I wanted to work on it. Rule #1: No working on the car until after your homework is done. Rule #2: Dad will never work on the car alone. It all worked out great, and my son developed some good skills. here's his car.

I made a copy of the longacre toe plates by using a couple aluminum plates, to which I screwed a piece of angle to keep them upright. simply cut a couple slots in them to hook the tape measures to. The string method woks well, and I found that a piece of square aluminum tube about 1" square from Home depot works well.. You can bungee cord it to the tire/wheel, and measure from the tube to the frame rails to get the rear wheels in alignment with the frame. ditto to the front I used a longacre caster camber guage to set the caster and camber.

If the offer is decent, take the job. You will still be home 1/2 the time, and your time with the family will feel twice as good. I totally agree with Croc. Work travel sucks. But everything that you don't enjoy sucks. So suck it up and take the money and run.

I have the 4:44 in mine, and you do shift rather quickly to second, but you blow thru 60mph in second gear faster than you can imagine. Just keep an eye on the shift indicator lights. It does run about 4000 rpm at 70mph, but heck that's just a short way from the VTEC point. It pulls nicely at 30mph in 6th gear in day to day driving around town. Sometimes on the highway , I wish for a 4:11, but my solution to that is stay off the highway, and stick to the twisty roads. With the 4:44, taking your foot off the gas is like applying the brakes. It's definitely not a "coaster"

I have windscreens, and they do a good job, but the flying dust and occasional pebble are irritating, so I always wear motocross goggles over my glasses whenever I drive my seven.

I can't attest to the correctness of my setup for any particular purpose, but here is what I use. Front toe in 1/16" caster 4 degrees Camber ( front) -1/4 degree Camber (rear) -1.0 degree toe (rear) 0

Maybe just a "girlyman" Drove mine to work yesterday, 35 miles each way of stop and go rush hour traffic. You really have to drive defensively.

Steve: it seems that the only luck you have been having is bad luck. Hang in there, it's bound to change to good luck. You are fast becoming an expert in all things rotating or reciprocating on a Caterham.

I actually have no idea why I mounted it inboard, perhaps because the main load on that bolt is the car weight, I wanted it as close to the mount as possible.

Here's what I did to mount my shock. I found one bolt bent due to the offset load, so I fabricated a sturdier mounting system. I machined a spacer that fit into the large hole in the Subaru upright, then cut off the ultralite supplied spacer so the tension of the bolt would draw the two items together on the upright while providing a solid, slop free mount for the shock bolt. I have included a pic of the drawing of the spacer if anyone wants to make themselves a set.

I am using a fuel pump from AutoZone, I believe it was for a Ford truck. Part number E7052 from Master. Use big wires , these pumps draw a ton of current, use a relay, don't try to control directly from the ECU.

I also own a Corvette ( 2010 convertible) and a Seven ( Ultralite), and I have tracked the Ultralite and a vette at Spring Mountain school, and the Seven is more fun on the track. However, the feel of that big V8 continuing to pull harder and harder until you run out of track is something you don't get in a Seven.

It appears that my exhaust angles down closer to the ground than the OP's, and that may be why I haven't had any exhaust fumes.

I don't seem to have any exhaust fumes getting to the passenger. I haven't noticed it when riding in the passenger seat, and have had no comments from passengers. Maybe just drive faster?:leaving:

I used a hydraulic parking brake on my Chenoweth dune buggy and it worked great.

The friction pads for the parking brakes are available from Wilwood, and are not expensive. If you adjust them so they work, they wear out quickly from rubbing the rotor.

There is a taper on that arm that sticks out. The bolt in the end adjusts the brake. The arm taper pushes on a rod that pushes on a metal disk that pushes on the brake pad. They do rattle a bit, but silicone around the caliper mount helps . They really don't work very well, but if needed for in inspection, they suffice. Here are some pics of the installation. I have the wilwood rotors, yours look to be the original Subaru rotors. You can see my regular brake caliper mounting bracket has been milled down, it was too thick and the caliper was not centered. The cable is anchored by a bracket behind the upper mounting bolt, and the parking brake mount is bolted to the subaru upright.

I have an aluminum floor jack from Harbor Freight, and it works well.............................BUT..................... It is the fast lift or "racing" jack and that's fine for a seven........BUT....... It is VERY DIFFICULT to control the drop, as it is too fast. When I lift my Tahoe and am lowering it I have to be very careful, it just wants to drop too quickly. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably buy a slower lift jack.

Here is my Ultralite " guard". It is stainless steel, and it is there to prevent the "sandpapering" away of the sump by the road surface when the suspension compresses. No, it won't prevent big rock or immoveable object damage, but early on, I had the suspension set too low, and did dome wear to the sump, so I raised the ride height, and added the "guard"

The motorcycle drivers were snart to have pulled to the side of the road when they stopped.

Sorry to hear of your affliction. I know what pain you are in. When they come out, they are the size of a grain of sand, yet they feel like a boulder when they are in transit. Hang in there , this too shall pass.

Another basic misconception by those who do not understand guns. The 2nd Amendment was written understanding that the arms referred to WERE the state of the art in that time. In fact many of the arms, even up to and including the civil war were supplied by the soldiers themselves. This included muskets, rifles, cannon and mortars. The purpose of the feedom outlined in the 2nd amendment was to enable the citizens to defend themselves against an overeaching government. Also. Cars are registerd as a method of collecting taxes. Registration of guns is a method to collect the guns.

Switch from a Porsche Cayman to a Seven? Only if you love doing work on cars, don't mind the great difficulty of entering it with the top in place, the noisy ride, and all the little quirks that make a seven a seven..... etc......etc........etc....... You already own an awesome car for the twisty roads, and I assume it's reliable..... are you a masochist?

Amen to that. Parents MUST be actively involved with their kids education to insure their children's success.

Now that doesn't surprise me at all. With a V8 it would be a Sortalite