powderbrake

Ok, here's the pics. One of the shifter shaft cut off, and the other of the aluminum knob that I turned. It is secured by 3 setscrews which are hidden by the boot. Note that I also added about an inch of foam under the vinyl on the center console, which makes a nice soft place to rest your right arm.

Scott, I made my own knob out of aluminum, and it is held on to the shaft with three setscrews, and they work fine. I have never noticed the knob feeling too hot, so I have no problem with the aluminum. I'm at work, I'll post some pics when I get home tonight.

I highly recommend the Valentine 1. Once you get used to the direction arrows, you will never buy a detector without them. I do agree that if you have a lot of speeed cams etc, the Escort will remember them. I believe the perfect detector would be the V1 with the GPS and upgradeability of the Escort, but they don't make that one yet. I use the V1 in my Se7en, and I have the remote audio box, so I can have the audio output in my left earbud( I only wear the one earbud) I can't hear the warnings without it.

I am sure that Loren or Chuck would be better sources of info, but the DLC (obd port) only has 5 wires according to Brian's schematic. ECMA 10 to DLC 1 ECMA 21 to DLC 15 +12v to DLC4 ground to DLC 12 & 13 I have never plugged a tool into the DLC, and I am not sure this wiring is correct, so if it isn't someone let me know. I haven't found the DLC connector diagram in the manual, so if anyone can verify this please let me know. Won't the codes give the info you need? (discounting those that are associated with the missing air pump and idle circuit)

Sunday was a great day here in the St.Louis area. My wife & I hopped in the Ultralite, and joined with the MG Car Club for a mini rally of about 50 miles, which ended up at one of the local wineries near Augusta. Two other local sevens were also in the mix. Had some wine and cheese, and a liesurely drive home, Only bad thing was the Cardinals lost their game.

Mike: It has been 4 years since I installed it, but I seem to remember I used the tach signal. This is Terminal #19 on ECM connector A. That is what drives the tach. I simply used switched +12 and GROUND for the power to the unit, I don't know why the Omex manual refers to the "coil" I mounted the sender on the aluminum panel under the dash, and ran the display cable over the top of the dashboard to a cable clamp on the windshield mount, and velcroed the display to the dash. I had planned a better display installation, but it worked, I was lazy, and I left it that way. I was also lazy when wiring, as all the initial wiring has markers showing where the wire comes from on each end, but I didn't do that on the shift light install. If you install one, and are programming it, remember the Honda engine will NOT go to full rpms UNTIL the temperature is up to normal, so if the engine is cold, you can't check the light setpoints at the top end.

I use the Nology shift light. http://www.nology.com/shiftlight.html It only has 4 lights, which I like for the general everyday driving, two greens, a yellow and a red. As a result you don't have all kinds of lights racing across the dash while doing your general commuting. On the track, shift at the red.

John: You really have a set of big brass ones!!! :hurray:

I have had the clear film on my rear fenders for 8,000 miles and I believe it does a good job. There are some rock marks through the film , but not many. It does get a bit discolored around the tar covered rock strikes, and requires heavy scrubbing to get the tar off, but so does paint. Previous to that the lower part of the fender lost it's paint in 2000 miles. Mine is clear. I don't think it is made in colors. I wanted to see the nice yellow paint, and did not want a different color plastic or stainless steel patch on my rear fenders. I used 12 mil film, this is the really heavy stuff. Most films are 6 or 8 mils. I purchased it from: http://www.xpel.com It was too heavy to work around the corner onto the side of the fender, so I cut some slits . You can only see them if you are looking for them. I didn't try to heat and stretch, I didn't want to screw up the film, as I only bought 3 feet of 24" wide film and it was $24 a foot in 2005.

I was annoyed at the rattles as well, and looked at a lot of heim joints. In a conversation with QA1, they told me that the teflon lined joints will always pound out and get loose, and that I was better off with steel to steel. I went with a slightly narrower joint than that used on the original build, which allowed me to add washer seals to both sides of the joints, which I had liberally greased. That helped the noise a lot. I must say that while the joints were noisy, there seemed to be little or no slop in them. I guess it doesn't take much to get noisy. I used the QA1 joints PCML8-10, PCMR8-10, PCMR10, and from Speedway motors, Heim Seals 910-01504, 910-01503 "Something loose in the muffler" could be a rattle between the headers and collector fitting which some other ultralite owners reported. Once I heard that could be the source, I stopped listening to it. It supposed to be a nice high 70's here in St.Louis today even though it's cloudy right now, so I'm planning a blat this afternoon. In 2008, I stopped at Mt Rainier and Mt. Hood on a road trip to Seattle in my vette.

No????? How did our guys walk on the moon?

Ethanol has less energy per gallon, and always gives lower fuel mileage. My Tahoe is a flex fuel model, and the manual states that with E85, you will get 25% worse gas mileage. I notice the difference in 10% ethanol vs pure gasoline.

Today makes 4 years since many of us met at the Topoco Lodge, and ran the Tail of The Dragon. It was a blast, with about 50 or 60 7's, . here's some pics as a reminder. credits to Killboy and Hemmings, others are mine I celebrated today with a 150 mile blat trough some twisty roads, got rained on a little bit, just like at the Dragon, but all is well.

If the driver of the Lambo saw the squirrel, he probably soiled his shorts too.

I highly recommend Microsoft Streets & Trips, as it has a conversion from the route to a GPX file which downloads into the Nuvi that accepts the routes. It sells for $25 direct from Microsoft. If you have it on your laptop, and have a gps receiver, It functions as a live Nav program. I used to use it like that, but found the Niuvi with the downloaded program to be less of a hassle than a laptop with it's power supply etc.

I regularly program all my road trips into the Garmin from my PC. I use Microsoft Streets & Trips to plan the route, then it can save as a GPX file, which can be downloaded into my Garmin. This allows me to pick and choose the roads that I want to travel. You must buy the Garmin that has the downloadable routes feature, and it isn't on the lowest cost models.

Well obviously, you are not slow on the CAD system. Very Cool.

Mike: You are truly "living the dream"

I have a 16 foot enclosed trailer, and have found that it tows much, much better with the weight forward. I suggest you try it with the seven as far forward as the springs on your tow car allow. I experienced some sway problems while towing with my Tahoe, but solved them with a weight equalizing hitch. Now I can pass tractor-trailers at full speed, without the sway. Here is what I am talking about: http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP61009.html This allows more weight on the ball, and transfers that weight to the front wheels, maintaing a more level ride. I strap down to the frame in front and reat, crossed, and pull the car down on the suspension. I do keep the car ot of gear, and place wheel chocks on the tires.

I have the Ultrashield equivalents in my Ultralite. I had a circle track seat at first but the side bolsters were too high, up in the armpits, so I changed to the drag seats.

Having been through union elections, and negotiating contracts, and seeing recall elections, I never saw any benefits accrue to the workers, only the transfer of their dues to the union coffers. That was the sad part for the workers, the sad part for management is the cumbersome rules and roadblocks to productivity and innovation. In addition the corrosive attitude of "for the worker to win, the company must lose" comes along with the union. My labor attorney told me two remember basic truths: 1) It's called the National Labor Relations Board, and they are out to get you. (So Boeing better be prepared to get screwed) 2) No good deed goes unpunished.

Welcome to the usa7s forum. A seven as a DD is feasible, but not too common. When it rains you have the hassle of getting the weather gear put on, and the difficulty of entrance and exit. I am sure there are more 7's being used as DD's in the UK than here in the States. If you live in Southern California, where it never rains, this may not be a consideration. $15,000 is at the low end of what you are likely to find a seven, and as such, it will need some work, and maybe frequent "tinkering" to keep it all streetworthy and reliable. Keep your eyes on the for sale section, and check ebay and craigslist in multiple cities. Perhhaps you could publish your location, and get a ride from other USA7s members, to get a better feel for the car. I'm in St.Louis, and would be happy to give you a ride. Actually once you get a ride, you will immediately elevate your need for a Seven.

Welcome, great looking car! You place is waaaay to clean for a seven owner.

Welcome to the group. Seven fever is a permanent condition, and there are a lot of variations of cars and drivetrains to treat yourself, Are you planning on bringing back a seven, or getting one after you get home? If you plan to bing one back, do a lot of research on the feasability of the import process, I am not up to date on it, but there has been some discussions on this forum. Just ask and people will help. Thank you for yourr service to our country.

I'll be there Jerry