powderbrake

Excellent craftsmanship, and the degree of overkill in the whole project is impressive. There is nothing like taking a project to the extreme..... it gives great satisfaction. WELL DONE !!!!!

I don't care what the ultra rich have or do. All I want is an opportunity to make my wealth without excessive government regulations or taxes or being forced to give it to someone else who hasn't earned it, via taxes or fees. Less government = better conditions for all of us. Let them guard the shores and deliver the mail and get the heck out of my life.

iceberg1234: Welcome to the USA7s forum, and the "sickness" of Seven ownership. All of the above replies are good answers to your question. We have a tradition here on USA7s, not to post negative comments about a brand, nor to compare on a one to one basis " my car's suspension is better than brand X car's suspension". xcarguy's description of why he likes his Stalker is a good examle of the proper response, he tells you the good stuff, and doesn't bad rap the other cars. That being said, I have an Ultralite, and I love it's bulletproof Honda relaibility, it's extra room, as it has a wider chassis, it's trunk space, and the simplicity of the suspension adjustment. If you are anywhere near St. Louis, you are welcome to jump in it for a ride. Also, it helps if you list your location in your profile, that way 7 owners who are near you can offer help.

It needs front fenders

Steve: Balancing is a bit of an art. Even though the machines are digital and "idiot proof" I have still had idiots overcome the machine's ability to do it right. The Dobbs near my house could not balance a new set of tires on my vette after trying 3 times, so the manager sent me to the Dobbs at Lindbergh and Watson road. They are very competent, and have received all my business since. I also got good service on installation of a set of tires from Tire Rack at the Auto Tire store in Dierber's Plaza in Oakville. They acted like they cared, even bringing out a torque wrench and asking me what I wanted the lug nut torque to be. Of course none of these were 13".

I agree with rikker. A seven has a front engine, rear wheel drive, and the engine is mounted behind the front axle.

Ade: Welcome to the usa7s forum. Great looking car, very clean, or as we used to say "very sanitary". That frame is unusual, we typically see round tubes, but square and rectangular can be easier, but are typically more expensive.

It looks great Steve. That had to be a big job. The garage lookes pretty deep too.

Those Tie Wraps holding the plywood to the roll bar must be the 200mph models.

I did the same, a good lumbar support and more cushioning on the bottom really help

My behind pics are pretty gross , but here's one of the back side of the 7 logo. I welded 4 #8 screws on, used fender washers painted black, and elastic stop nuts. The grill is from a flourscent fixture, chrome plated plastic, and it is held in place by wood screws into wood blocks that were inserted in the hood when Brian made the hood.

I received my badge from Kiwi Birkin, and am very happy with it. Here's a copy of an old post I got my bage last August, but finally got it installed today. I welded some #8 screws to the rear of the badge, then seeing that I had actually welded them to the front, I ground them off, and welded them to the actual rear of the badge. I had some leftover paint from the original build, so I broke out the spray gun...... and then ran to the auto store to get some thinner....... and painted it. The grill is actually a grill for a flourescent light fixture, and is made of plastic. I got some fender washers, painted them black, and attached the badge with #8 elastic stop nuts. http://www.usa7s.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1644&d=1271180404

As an Ultralite owner, I can attest to not wanting or having a top. This is not a problem for me, as I do not drive it in the winter. It is possible to put a top on an Ultralite, as Redrocket has one, bu tthey are rare. It appears that you want to drive it in all weather conditions (Like the Brits), so I suggest looking at models that have a long history and availability of tops and sidecurtains, like the Lotus, Caterham and Birkin (I think). This is the proper place to be investigating, and I am sure that you will get some good answers

Being a manufacturer means you make the investments and take the risks, and as you said, it is difficult to find customers who are willing to spend anything these days. The car looks great, and the dual cupholders are a hoot! You just wait until the passenger is taking a sip of his drink, and you hit the gas. This works best if the passenger has a very good sense of humor.:ack:

Good luck on the new car. You will be all smiles for a long time as you get the new car on the road. It should be a real beast.

That was the price ( in 2008) for the total number of joints listed. The PCML8-10 were $8.90 each, for example. They have worked out just fine for me. The rod ends I got from QA1, (10) PCML8-10 ($89), (6) PCMR8-10 $53, and (4) PCMR10 $36.

I made a connector by brazing a 1/4-20 stud into a Hex brass 1/4-20 threaded spacer. I then cross drilled it for the Honda throttle cable wire, and drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole for the clamping screw. Note that the clamping screw is self locking with a nylon insert, otherwise just add a lock nut to it. The idea here is that the connector can rotate in the hole in the accelerator arm, so there is no twisting or binding of the throttle cable as the accelerator arm rotates. I used a 1/4-20 locknut on the back side of the accelerator arm. The mounting is from the tab on the brake pedal assembly, keep it in a nice straight line to the point where the connector is mounted on the accel arm. To restrain the wire on the back side of the connector, I used a collar with a setscrew. These are available from any model airplane shop or supplier. Now for the fitting on the end of the cable housing. I brazed a nut onto a brass 1/4-20 bolt, as I needed the depth for a socket for the cable housing. I then drilled a hole through the assembly for the wire, and another hole in the head as a socket for the cable housing. This allows me to bolt the fitting in place on the car, making a solid stop for the outer cable housing. A nut secures it on the back side of the mounting bracket. You can pull the slack out of the wire, and lock the collar in place for throttle position adjustments. Note the throttle stop in the last picture. It securely stops the pedal travel..... dont let the stop be the butterfly on the intake. I hope this helps. It has been reliable for me, as I have never messed with it since I built the car.

Bruce K: Congrats on the S2k. I am running those SSR wheels on mine, and they are great. Light and strong. If you are going to change the heim joints, may I recommend you buy a large measuring caliper from Harbor Freight. Just pull off the rod with two heims, slide them on the caliper, and tighten it. Then replace the heims, and adjust until it again fits the caliper. Makes the job easy. Item # 96509 at Harbor freight, $10 http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Calipers

I assumed the clanking suspension noise was from worn heim joints, due to dirt having worn them out, so I replaced my heim joints with slightly narrower ones from QA1 that allowed me to add the sealing washers on each side. I put them back on the old bolts and it really quieted the suspension noise. As I remember all those are on 1/2 inch diameter bolts, so to get a shoulder screw to fit you have to match the length of bolt to the length of the heim + the tabs. There are not a lot of lengths available in a 1/2 inch sholder bolt, and they have a 3/8 nut on them. here is a link to the Fastenall site for shoulder bolts. http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/product/fasteners/sockets/socket-shoulder-bolts/_/Navigation?searchterm=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=&refine=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600039 Sockets"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602314 Socket Shoulder Bolts"|~ ~|sattr03:^"Alloy Steel"$|~ ~|sattr01:^1/2"$|~

My rpms are about 4000 at 70 mph

I have the 4:44, and it is awesome off the line. People that I have given rides have been astounded by the acceleration. Of course the noise and wind rush of a seven are new to them and adds to the experience. You do have to shift rather quickly to stay out of the rev limiter. What Loren says it true, that many hours on the highway may seem a bit noisy, but heck, the wind is the big noise in these cars at highway speeds. I found the 4:44 to be my limiting factor at the 1/4 mile drag races. I peaked out just a bit early and needed to shift near the finish. I believe a 4:11 would have given me a better time, or perhaps a higher speed. I always ended up at around 106mph, even though the times went from 12.6 to 13.x This was always with 17" wheels, and the Falken 615's in 245/45 R17. I am also not skilled at drags, only having run them a few times at Run & Gun. I am sure some more pactice, stickier tires and more horsepower would always help. If I had to do it all over, I might go for the 4:11, as I am no longer doing any track days or drags, and use it mostly for blats on twisty roads, and some daily driver runs in good weather. On the other hand, I love it the way it is. I put on some new Falken 615k's on this summer, and they made a huge change in performance. Tires don't really wear out on my Ultralite, they tend to get hard and slippery, so this time I had them heat cycled at Tire Rack before delivery. Maybe that will extend the sticky life.

We can't. The problem is spending, not revenue. When leadership is present, and spending is reduced, the economy will soar, and revenue will be there.

I'm a small government guy, so I believe the Feds should deliver the mail, guard the shores, and get the heck out of my life. That being said, I also believe that we must, as a society, care for those who are unable to care for themselves, but that can be done on a State or Local level where control by the people is more immediate.

We have a forum member who makes them. I purchased one and I am very happy with it. http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6416

Great looking car, and lots of extras, including a top. I believe someone will get a great deal when they buy this car. I have the same mucho expensive wheels on my Ultralite, but I am running larger diameter Falken RT615K tires. The Diamond Racing wheels and slicks apparently don't hit the fenders or stays like I thought they would. Good luck on the sale.