Marek

Ours is a Worthington WU-6414 (14' deck, 16' overall). 2990# capacity, aluminum construction, wood deck, single axle with brakes, aluminum ramps. One person can roll it around empty without much effort. Worthington has been out of business for some years, but the Aluma 6814H is very similar. The Aluma is a bit lighter, aluminum deck, and available with a tilt option - which would be nicer than ramps. Light trailers with aluminum ramps can be noisy as the ramps rattle over bumps.

We run a 3000lb-rated 16' single-axle open aluminum trailer with brakes to tow Sevens and Miatas. It is a dream to tow. The single axle is plenty and even without the brakes (controller problem!) it handled well. Don't over size your trailer. I recommend brakes, but stick with a single axle.

Yes, that car has an original roll bar and is a simpler trim using carpet. But remove that carpet and the sender and pump will be mounted from the top. The 16.5 gallon tank is horseshoe shaped where the arms tilt towards the front of the car; so that the tank sits above and straddles the rear axle but the ends of the arms extend in front of the axle. There is a balance tube running under the driveshaft to connect the two arms and the pump reaches down into one arm. Unfortunately I don't seem to have taken a picture of the tank when mine was out of the car. But the sender looks like this:

As the Rotus tank is directly behind the seat back, the pump, sender, and filler are readily accessible under a vinyl cover (not shown here). The vinyl is fixed with an aluminum trim attached with screws.

Regardless of how easy our cars are to work on, many shops struggle with them because they are not familiar. One alternative option is KTR European Motorsports in Ayer.

One is not enough? I am impressed!

Can you share pictures? I have only seen Tilton masters on these cars. What is your gearbox?

Congrats on acquiring the car! And fire away with the questions.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1Ck3FMbA3i/ When will you ever again see a purple Seven sitting next to a maroon Seven?

Does MassTuning has any specific requirements for Sevens?

If you are considering the Beta tools from Pegasus, also look at the USAG and Facom from Ultimate Garage in NJ.

110mm or 114.5? The axle in my Rotus is from the Celica-Supra and definitely 114.5mm. I'd be surprised if Toyota was dabbling in multiple wheel patterns. The good news is 114.5 gives you plentiful options.

Aren't timezones the ultimate local issue? If you've ever implemented timezones in software, you've been faced with the choice of wracking yourself in frustration from the apparent madness or finding the humor in humankind's ability to complicate the rising and setting of the sun. Here in New England we have a different gripe with our timezone. As we poke way out to the east in Eastern Time, in the winter it can be dark by 4 pm; and so there have been serious discussions of adopting Atlantic Time. In the end, if we 'solved' this 'problem' would we miss having one less topic to complain about?

Yes, the common advice is to use a high-ZDDP oil in your Busso and Nord engined Alfas.

Two oils widely recommended when looking for high zinc content are Shell Rotella T6 for a synthetic oil and Valvoline VR1 Racing for a mineral oil. Both are easy to find. Others are available and finding them is a matter of finding spec sheets for the oil. Motul has excellent options for example, but not so readily available as the Shell or Valvoline. While I've long had the opinion that Mobil 1 is never the wrong oil, I believe they have reduced the zinc content in recent years and I have stopped using it for my pre-90s cars. Zinc content is a modern topic for classic and vintage cars as late model oil specifications for gasoline engines have reduced the zinc content for reasons I believe are related to change in modern valvetrain designs needed to meet current emissions or mileage expectations. That all of my 80s engines are known to prefer higher zinc has me always on the lookout for available options. For years Shell Rotella T6 was marketed as a 'multi-use' oil suitable for gasoline or diesel, but a couple of years ago they dropped the gasoline recommendation but the zinc and phosphorus content on the spec sheet remained unchanged. The suspicion is the higher zinc required for the diesel specification is too high for some of the latest Long Life oil specifications. I (and many others) still use it. Oil choices have the aura of witchcraft - not because they are complicated but because consistent information can be hard to find.

This seems like a situational problem to me as well. In the past ~6 weeks I've had shipments from The Netherlands, Germany, and Italy via UPS and DHL and from shippers accustomed to shipping to the US. One over the de minimis and the others below. All have been been quick and on time. As far as I can tell we aren't yet experiencing any significant shipping disruptions.

The nose is a clever take on the styling possibilities for a Seven by borrowing from decades predating the Seven. I see Healey Silverstone, Allard, and early 30s Ford Tudor hotrod.

Apologies for not posting the link.... https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-installation-operation-and-maintenance-manual.pdf The excerpt above is on page 10.

While the Odyssey is an AGM, not all AGMs are alike and Odyssey says their TPPL batteries require a specific charging profile. From the Odyssey manual: In order to recharge a battery that has been discharged, it is best to use an automatic charger with an AGM setting that has the appropriate charge voltage and current per recommendations. For optimum charging, the current output should at least 40% of the battery’s C10 rating. This means a battery that has a 10-hour rating of 100 amp hours should be charged with 40 amps. Charge current should never be less than 10% of the battery’s C10 rating. Voltages higher than 15.0 volts will cause irreversible damage to the battery. Please refer to Figure 2 below for a graphical representation of the recommended charge profile for ODYSSEY AGM2 batteries used in non-starting applications The NOCO chargers I tried would not provide the 14.7 volts. The battery would charge, but not within the Odyssey specs.

This thread helped me address a problem I did not realize I had; as so often happens on this forum. It convinced me to add lightness. My Seven came with a heater, but not connected and the fan does not work. I did intended to fix it eventually. But I've had to remove the cowl for other reasons and the heater is now out in the open just staring at me. This thread convinced me that removal is the obvious fix. In cool weather my lower body is never uncomfortable. And with a barchetta-height windshield, no heater is going to affect my upper body.

Yes, get a CTEK or Schauer; the preferred options on Odyssey's approved list of chargers. Both will use the multi-step charging profile recommended by the manufacturers of these batteries.

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Look for SFI "dual durometer" padding. It has inner and outer sections where the outer is less dense. Pegasus lists it as, "Dual Durometer SFI 45.1 Roll Bar Padding"

Another simple option for turning plates (to make the front wheels turn easily) is a square of linoleum (or other tile) lubricated with a spray bottle of soapy water.

I have this exact one. It measured out square, flat, and straight and has been repeatable and accurate for me. If ordering one, I would check it before relying on it. Now stringing a car or using plates, regardless of the tools you use, does depend more on the attention to detail of the user than an automated rack. My own opinion is the reviews are probably more a comment on the users and their cars than the plates. I've been stringing cars under various professional conditions for a long time, so my confidence might be higher than for some; but the technique is simple to learn. Most importantly, adjust the tips on the plates such that the plate is square to the wheel and they don't move between measurements. Make sure your measurements are repeatable.