KnifeySpoony

My recommendation is to follow the direction re: correct number of initial turns on the tie rod end - I did during my build and my toe was almost perfect from the get go. Doing it by eye is VERY difficult, as the angled side panels will mess with your perception of straight. And as you stated, you want the rack centered when the wheels are straight, otherwise you will have a different amount of steering lock left vs right. Turning the tie rod at this point is easy, but will put the rack off center.

Awesome thanks. I was aware of those products, but the tags that came with my filter seemed to contradict their use - maybe I misinterpreted. Is there a stateside source for their cleaning kit, or is demontweeks my best bet. Or should I go with a third party product?

Does anyone know proper interval and procedure for cleaning/oiling of the pipercross air filter supplied with the Caterham roller barrel intake? I can't seem to find it online.

I used to run XP10s on my exige - once they're bedded, I really like them. However, I found them very finicky with regards to bedding- definitely a learning curve there. I just put in the DS3000 today, will report back after testing. Hopefully they don't put the bias too far to the rear and make it undriveable.

Yeah short answer is you're doing it wrong - should look like this:

Yea i tested continuity with a meter - def intermittent on that one plug - on BOTH wires. Crimp on the pins looks good; i think the wire broke right near where it enters the connector. It didn't seem to have a lot of stress there; will have to be careful routing wires next time...

OK 99.9999% percent sure I found the issue. Seems to be a bad ignition wire to cylinder #4. Discovered by the "jiggle test".

Yeah that was my thought going with the DS3000- with the solid rear discs, they will run really hot late in long braking zones and should work well. Of course, this is at the expense of literally no rear braking when cold on the street (I drive the car to/from the track) and presumably extreme rotor wear.

Thanks for the update. I have a set of Ferodo DS3000 on my shelf. My OEM (delphi) pads are just about done so I will test the DS3000s soon. I'm concerned they are too aggressive, but will find out. First I need to get the car running properly- I have a misfire issue I'm diagnosing...

Will the datalogging show the location of misfire(s)? Or will I need to swap things around and read the plugs?

Also I didn't put any fresh dielectric grease on the new plugs - is it important enough to make a difference?

Maybe the consistent miss on the rear cylinder with the BR7EFS plugs is a blessing for diagnosis? ie, maybe should put them back in then do some troubleshooting. ie switch plug position, then coil position etc? Will datalogging show cylinder misfires?

Here is the new set. The one on the left is the rear cylinder (pulled a day after driving, otherwise I assume that is the wet/dead cylinder?)

Here are the original plugs - they look ok to me

Thanks - I'm thinking logging may be my best best to help diagnose. I will definitely go back to the prior plugs and see if the behavior reverts, or I keep getting the persistent missing. That will be informative as well.

i have an easimap cable - not sure what else I need to log data

Ok, so I have done some more testing. I don't thinks its a fuel starve issue. Pretty sure it's a misfire/electrical issue. First I checked all the grounds, visual inspection of wiring. Everything looked good. I filled up with 91 - tank took about 5 gallons, so still a bit of leftover 101 in there (fwiw, Bruce Beachman initially thought maybe the issue was the car not agreeing with the 101 octane). Went and did some pulls - at first it seemed ok on the first one or two pulls, but then starting missing above 6k, so I went home. I read a bunch about spark plugs. People on the UK forum strongly recommend the BR7EFS plug - colder plug/smaller gap, supposed to be better at high RPMs, at the expense of rough starting/idling. So I swapped plugs today. Started instantly and idled without issue. Drove it around a bit to warm it up (ran fine), then did some pulls. First couple pulls seemed fine, then it started to miss again, THEN it started to act totally differently. It started to feel like it had a persistent misfire on one cylinder (different than the all-cylinder-missing rev-limiter feel thing it was doing before). At all RPMs it was doing this, persistently, so I limped it home. And here I sit. Any thoughts? It seems like it got worse after things warmed up/ran for a while. Could this be a voltage/battery issue? Coil issue?

Checked my video. It was indeed a right hander that I first heard the popping that I thought was G-induced fuel starve. If this is indeed the wrong type of corner (ie fuel pickup is on the other side of the tank), than that could certainly be a red herring in all of this - maybe the original starvation episode just happened to be in a corner and was just the moment of failure of whatever failed.

What is your speedo sensor gap? Can you take a pic? I have found the alignment being off can make a difference. I dremeled my mounting hole in order to align a little better. re: bleeding - yes a rebleed after a drive often does the trick. How soft is the pedal right now?

What's the issue with speed sensor? Bleed the brakes more... Did you go in correct order and try tapping/other tips etc?

Another element re: fuel pump/regulator- when I did the roller barrel upgrade, it came with the uprated green injectors, which I installed. It didn't run (I made a post about it) but I learned that they made a change to the fuel system very recently such that the roller barrel tune can run with stock injectors. Something about an auxillary external pump: Maybe that could be the culprit?

I will review my onboard and confirm which turn the initial starve occurred in. I just put in ZZRs so definitely increased lateral loads. Yes, the later testing the starve was happening on straights, with a completely full tank. I don't understand why slowly achieving redline confirms good fuel flow. At part throttle, wouldn't fuel demands be reduced? I probably was at 50-75% throttle when it was able to climb past 6k. The popping only occurs if I stay WOT after the hesitation occurs, otherwise, it just feels like I'm hitting a rev limiter. I would guess that it's more than one cylinder based on how abrupt it is. In fact at first I thought I had some ECU fault where rev limiter was kicking in early. Would easimap tell me if there was misfire on 1 vs all cylinders? I will check TPS I check roller barrels - they are sync'd and functioning properly.

kill it with fire

Ok so issue with my car today. Recent build 420R with caterham roller barrels, stock tune. Trackday number 8 with the car, has performed flawlessly until today. In the third session at Laguna today, I let the fuel get a little too low, and got fuel starve (in a right hander, I believe). POPOPOPOP for about 1 sec, so I quickly dialed it down and brought it in. When I filled up, it took 4.6 gallons to fill it. Not sure if that is the expected level to risk fuel starve. The track ran out of 91octane so they only had 101, so I filled up with the 101 (had also topped up with the 101 with about 3 gallons when I got there in the AM). So the next session, car starts/idles without issue. I go out - warm up lap, short shifting around 6k RPM, no issues. Car is pulling hard and smooth. Second lap, start to bring it up to pace. When WOT, as the revs hit about 6k/6.5k, it starts to hesitate like it's missing. I immediately lift, but next straight same thing, so lift again. After a couple more times and realizing I wasn't imagining things, I pulled in. Looked over the car, everything seemed in place. Next session, same thing - instead of lifting when it occurred I stayed WOT and as the revs slowly climbed, heard popping from the exhaust. Also, if I would accelerate at less than WOT, the car would pull smoothly all the way to redline. SOOOO, I would guess there is some kind of restriction/limiting factor in fuel delivery? Is it possible getting fuel starve somehow damaged the fuel pump and now it isn't able to provide enough pressure to go WOT above 6k? What else should I be looking at? Thanks if you made it this far!

I got a set of camber/toe shims from Jack Webb- He and all the other purveyors of these shims all say how it can be done quickly trackside without disassembly. I must be missing something, because it seems I will need to disassemble a lot in order to slip the shims in. Does anyone have any experience with these and can give me some pointers?