KnifeySpoony

I guess Caterham finally got around to modernizing the tail lights. I think they may have gone too modern. Your thoughts?

Which BAR offices are you guys dealing with?

Watching this thread eagerly, as I am in the bay area and just finishing up my 420R build. However as a CA kit build, maybe I will be in a different (and better) boat...

I heard back from Caterham. The sender in the "submarine" is indeed only for the gauge.

Strange- the article says head on collision, but pictures show otherwise. Also, hard to imagine based on how the 7 looks that the passenger died, and the driver so seriously injured.

Hmmmm, I looking the wiring harness info in the 2015c build manual, but I can't figure out where the water temp sensor runs through, ie if it triggers the rad fan or not. I will ask Caterham.

This seems to have answered my question: https://www.caterham7diaries.com/post/coolant-system-layout He states the temp sender in the submarine is only for the gauge. If that's true, then how does the ecu know when to turn on the fan?

Resurrecting this as I'm finally getting to this install. As the pic you've inserted above shows, the Spa gauge comes with all wiring as well as 2 temp senders. Since there is no oil temp gauge currently, I will use their wiring independent of the standard wiring, although I'm not sure if those connector plugs will fit through the grommet in the scuttle along with the main harness. Hopefully it will. My question is regarding the water temp signal. Can I do the same for that? ie use the Spa-provided sender and wiring and just not use the water temp wiring in the harness? Or is the signal from the water temp sender used to control radiator fan or other stuff? Hence your earlier advice... Spa does provide plug/pin information, so I can splice into their connector if necessary. Thanks

That's a good idea I hadn't thought of that.

Yes my trans contacts the inside of the tunnel on the driver side, but i was expecting that based on numerous reports. However, I've never heard of this issue which seems quite different, as it's suspension to chassis contact. I guess I'll see if it causes an issue. I'd suspect if and when it hits it would be quite noticeable.

Message from caterham : I have discussed this with our production manager and it appears that it is not uncommon to see the central triangulated section come into contact with the inner diagonal tubes on full droop, even with the A-frame centralised correctly. However it is not a concern to us as it will not cause you any issues under real world conditions.

Yes i could shift the watts linkage, but that would just tilt the de Dion fore or aft (since it will rotate about the connection to the a frame). Tilting it forward would also bring it down which would worsen clearance. Tilting it back raises it but also pushes it back into the narrower "v" of the chassis rails.

I have the watts linkage, so the front watts link bar goes in the upper hole.

I have spacer bushes in the top damper holes but they look different. I have an email off to Caterham to see what they say. I just measured by dedion centering based on the side longitudinal rails (as the build manual indicates), and i am within .5mm left to right. So some misalignment elsewhere is causing this it seems.

Yes indeed that does seem to be the case. The dedion is centered via the Aframe - there are spacer washers used to get the dedion ends equidistant from the side chassis rails, which was done (to a closer tolerance than the manual specs). I could shift some washers around to try to center it within those diagonal members instead of centering it on the side rails. However, there's only about 3mm clearance on the good side, so the gap would be incredibly small; I can't see how it still wouldn't be likely to hit with dynamic movement involved.

Ok here are some pics. It's hitting on the right side of the big triangular thing that hangs off the bottom of the dedion tube. Left side is clear. You can see in the pics. You can also see that looking at each end of the dedion (near the ears), where it hangs over the side chassis rails, the clearance is about equal. This suggests that the right side is not just hanging lower, which was my initial thought. I thought maybe the right sided damper was too long, but this doesn't seem to be the case. It almost seems like the diagonal chassis tube is too high or something.

Another build question on my 420R. The rear suspension is completely assembled now. Is it normal for the DeDion tube to contact the angled chassis rails (the ones that run parallel and behind the A frame) when in full droop? I would have thought the dampers would limit the travel, but when resting the car on jackstands on the chassis (ie suspension unloaded), the tube droops and contacts the chassis. Seems like a bad setup...

Hmmm pic shows in my browser, not sure why. I do think you are right though. They are shown here: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/4932-rear-anti-roll-bar-kit-s3-metric-chassis.html I found some pics showing them used as a spacer in between upper part of drop link and plate on the dedion.

Working on my 420R kit. Have these hexagonal spacer looking things. Similar to the front damper widetrack extensions but shorter. They were in a bag with some rear suspension/A frame stuff. Any ideas?

Couldn't find them. Just using standard flat top jack stands. Going fine so far. Engine went in pretty easy.

Anyone know the best way to plumb in a prop valve in the cockpit like Caterham does on it's racecars? I have an AP racing lever type valve, and I'm trying to figure out the best series of connections to splice it into the rear brake line. Looking at a setup like this: Uses banjos to get into the valve, but how do I get into the banjo from the existing line? Forgive me I'm an absolute noob when it comes to brake line stuff. Thanks

Sorry for your trouble, but I had to laugh. The video is hilarious. It would be great for that meme - "I must go, my people need me"

Sorry missed that. I bet it won't last long. Very fair price.

https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/fs-caterham-7-with-2-3l-cosworth-csr.481475/ Man..... my 420R kit is already stateside, awaiting delivery. If it wasn't, I would buy this instantly. If I could cancel my order, I would. Looks like a great build. And already SB100 compliant, no headaches. Gahhhhhhhh

Awesome thanks for the tips. I'm going to give it a shot.