anduril3019

These are 10" wide x 40" long x 26" diameter. They are in good shape, what looks like damaged fiberglass is just stretch wrap that has decomposed. They came off of a Caterham with 13" wheels, mounts are for Caterham/Triumph uprights.

I may have a set. I can send you dimensions tonight. Can you explain what you mean by "not long enough"? Are you measuring diameter?

Same here! It will be a while before I can use mine, but looking forward to comparing notes with others. The fixture is basically just a way to get consistent readings on either side of your phone without button interference. Something similar could be made pretty easily, but I decided to give their fixture a try. I'd suggest steel conduit or aluminum tube. PVC is too flexible, it makes it hard to get your string tight enough.

Great minds... One of my goals is to get mine done while my dad can still drive, or at least go for a ride in it. Seems to have a few years in him still. Photo is circa 1967.

The slippery stuff is supplied through the #1 rocker stand to the hollow shaft (plugged at both ends) which then feeds each of the rockers. The oil then passes out through the small hole in the top of each rocker and splashes around to lubricate the pushrod tops and valve stem tops and guides. The solid spacers don't really rotate, except from vibration, and the thrust on them from the rockers is minimal, so the oil bleeding out the rocker pivots as well as the external oil flying around is plenty for the spacers. With the type of steel rocker stands you have, typically all four are drilled for oil feed, even though only one is needed. They are rare, but I have seen sets with only a single stand drilled for oil, which means no oil will get to the head if that stand is in the wrong position. (ask me how I know )

I'd say it's time to start a build thread over at locostusa.com. In the spirit of previous posts, even if you go with an existing chassis plan, you'll still have hundreds if not thousands of decisions to make along the way. As you ask questions online, research first, then try and be specific, using drawings and photos when possible so that there is an answerable question. Will this approach work? Maybe. It cold be awesome, or, it could kill you. I wouldn't deviate from proven designs and practices without the ability to validate the engineering, or at least without having access to someone willing and able who can. This isn't meant to discourage you but, again, as others have said, to encourage you down a path that has a chance of success!

I was able to make this work for my rear tubes and dash hoop ends, I found one for under $100. https://www.ebay.com/itm/196324279196?gQT=1 Worked great for the 3/4" tubing but it won't do anything like what @11Budlite is showing for roll bar hoops or side impact bars. The curved tubes at the cockpit sides are 1" dia., those I bent by hand. Besides those few tubes, everything else on the chassis is straight.

All good advice above! Here's a good place to start: https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=117246#p117246 https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=42 I bought my first piece of steel about 5 years ago and now have a chassis that's 95% complete, as well as about 80% of the parts I need to finish. I've also got a family, a full time job, and a side business. So far, I haven't fallen into the 90% of stalled builds category, but can easily see how it happens. Realistically, I'd like to have it on the road in 3-5 years. I enjoy the parts sourcing, problem solving, and fabrication, so make sure you find the right balance between process and getting a finished product. Go for it, and don't be afraid to adjust as your time and resources allow. https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=24456

Well said. Just like anything else, Artificial Intelligence requires Authentic Intelligence (or Actual Intelligence?) to use well.

Not exactly a bargain, but here's something close: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/wto/d/san-pablo-silverstone-by-american-13x5/7821774066.html

The only width difference is on the 711M block which is the uprated crossflow block introduced in 1970. The left side motor mount bosses are taller, 1/4"-3/8" I think, but I'm not 100% sure on that. I'm not sure what Caterham did for new engines, but often when this block is used as a replacement or upgrade for an older engine, the bosses get milled down then drilled and tapped deeper if needed. Otherwise, a modified mount is needed.

Seeing as it was hot enough to melt all the aluminum (even those nice Cosmic wheels ), I was wondering if the brazed frame joints would be compromised in any way that wouldn't be obvious from a visual inspection. Thoughts?

On the 23 auction, it does say Lotus 23 "Type" car. I suppose that's accurate in a very loose sense. Also, clicking through the pictures, the bill of sale letter states "Lotus 23 sports racing bodied car...", the body looks like it was a 23 before it was disfigured.

Imagine removing the A frame connection at the diff housing, what would the axle do? It would pivot (twist) the entire axle around the radius arm connections on top of the axle. So, with the A frame connected, that twisting force is still present but is restricted by the A frame. What you're left with is a twisting force (spread across each half of the axle) between the upper radius arm connection point, and the lower A frame connection point. That's what the drawing above is trying to illustrate. It took me a little while to wrap my brain around it, but once you see it, it makes sense.

Sounds interesting. Doesn't it effectively end up being a 4 link, with the A frame providing lateral location? Or are you thinking the added links wouldn't need to be as stout since they are sharing some of the work with the A frame?

If the goal is zero toe and zero camber, what's a reasonable tolerance?

I may be in the area this weekend. Sent you a PM.

You have the uprated friction fit adjusters, no lock nuts required. You should have significant resistance to turning them with your wrench, but they will turn. Typically I like to adjust them clockwise, reducing the clearance. If your clearances are already too tight, open them up slightly, then tighten in to your desired clearance. As an aside, you also have aftermarket steel rocker stands. The stock aluminum pedestals are known to flex under high stress.

I've always wondered if Porsche 914 or Lotus Europa seats would work. They both have a one-piece shell with head-rest, and are relatively narrow and compact overall. Just a thought.

That's the problem with these fancy new engines and their functioning oil seals. On a classic British engine rust is one problem you don't often have thanks to the fine coat of oil everywhere.

Don't forget to check the shaft seals on your Webers. Seals are not always included in a basic rebuild kit and can be a source of annoyance if worn.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet. If you are referring to item 4 in the illustration, that should either be a press fit, or be staked in place. If it's loose, and you are trying to keep it in place while installing the pump, I could imagine it getting out of place and preventing the pump from seating properly.

Here are a few more. (mostly pre 1970s) Stafford Vehicle Components (UK) https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/ Components for classic and vintage cars. Lights, switches, mirrors, wiring accessories and washer and wiper systems. New and replica lights. Mike Brotherwood (UK) http://www.mikebrotherwood.com/Parts.html Mechanical, electrical, suspension bits, etc. for 7s and other Lotus sports racers and formula cars. Also, parts made to order. Retroford (UK) https://www.retroford.co.uk/ Cortina and Escort focused, but lots of applicable bits. Drivetrain, axles, Duratec and Zetec components. Autosparks (UK) https://www.autosparks.co.uk/ Wiring harnesses, electrical components. AES, Auto Electric Supplies (UK) https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ The name pretty much says it. Batho Sports Cars (UK) https://www.batho-sports-cars.com/caterham_lotus_seven.html Aluminum (aluminium?) body panels. I think Batho may have been related to Xtra Special Sevens somehow, not sure, though. Axminster Specialist Panels (UK) https://axminsterspecialistpanels.com/home/ Axminster Specialist Panels produce high quality panel work in alloy, steel and other metals, using the traditional craftsmans’ panel beating methods. MDR, Mark Davies Racing (UK) https://jacobengineering.co.uk/index.php/steering-wheels-2/ Reproduction Springall steering wheels, Lotus steering wheel badges, Coventry Climax parts, misc. parts. Lotus-Mistry (Canada) https://www.lotus-mistry.com/ Lotus Twincam, Kent, Cosworth, engine parts. Other random parts. Funky website. Nisonger Instruments (US) https://www.nisonger.com/smiths-parts.htm Smiths instruments Melvyn Rutter Limited (UK) https://mogparts.net/ Morgan parts. Lucas, Kent engine, and other crossover stuff. Woolies (UK) https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/ Trim, upholstery, fittings, etc.

If you're willing to share, I love pictures of basket cases! I think others will agree. Plus, you never know what someone may see and say, "Hey, I've got an extra one of those...". (Understood if you prefer to avoid unsolicited commentary on your project!)

Any chance the release bearing is returning too far due to engine vibration? Not sure if it's possible with a concentric release, but I had something similar happen with a standard release bearing. Everything seemed fine after bleeding, but after running for a little while, the clutch wouldn't disengage. Turned out there was a stiff spot in the slave cylinder, the external return spring on the slave cylinder that keeps tension on the fork and pushrod seemed fine while cold, but it was actually stopping at the stiff spot in the cylinder. When hot and vibrating, the plunger would move past the stiff spot, returning farther than normal, leaving a gap between the clutch and bearing and not enough travel to disengage. Also check your upper pedal stop (whatever is stopping it, master cylinder, chassis, etc.) make sure pedal is all the way up when adjusting everything.