IamScotticus

Bob likes his 3 hole flat bottom Momo and went to a lot of trouble replacing the shaft to use that wheel. There should be something out there that suits his car. Bob, are you willing to drill and chamfer 3 holes on a wheel? What diameter is that Momo? I've always wondered how wheels are measured, front the outside edge of the rim, or the centre of the rim? I suppose outside as this is the surface the leverage is applied. A wheel with a 13" rim center and a 2" thick rim ought to be a 15" wheel from edge to edge? What matters in these 7s is you have a wheel you can scootch under. Good info here https://low-offset.com/guides/best-aftermarket-steering-wheel/ **************** Bob, there's red wheels there but that 3 hole.. Everything is 6 hole now.

Hate to here, but I doubt you will come out better than buying the wheel the way you want it. I would just have the black suede wirh single red 12 o'clock stripe. Or rattle can that center red. Red leather wheel is fun but too vintage for your spec. Any excuse to use that emoji.

Refresh or double up on the rubber strip at the top to see if this will pull the corners in. Simulate this with something flexible to see if thw spacing at top helps.

You are saying that the front of the bonnet does not clamp snugly over the nose lip? do the Dzuz locations fit the brackets correctly? Are you sure you have a Caterham bonnet?

some ventilation on top of the pedal box is good as it prevents condensation collecting and rusting the frame there. It happened to me.

Uncle Tony on the crush collar

Don't motorcycle fluids still come with dye?

U.N.C.L.E. Car SHADO UFO Thunderbirds Captian Scarlett Supercar (21st Century car) Danger Man Prisoner Mini Moke

Type 14LF are widely available as rebuilds or new old stock at very reasonable prices. Unless you have real desire to rebuild, I think buying ready to run calipers is the way. You can take time to refresh and upgrade the old ones wirh stainless pistons, etc. Chance is very good the old calipers aren't worth the effort. Pegasus, Dave Bean , Spitbits, Moss, Rimmer Bros. Like @EdWills points out, the availability of these BL parts...one of the best reasons to choose an older Caterham is the parts are still out there. Even a new Xflow block.

OP, You've had older Loti, you know how hard it can be to find replacement parts! I suggest keeping the steering shaft in a box of parts in case you want it later and to go with the car when it moves on. If it isn't broken, keep it. Sell the hub and wheel, if you must.

Lucky you. There is plenty of parts support and an LSD to drop in. I would think the Cortina and Escort forums will have plenty of help. The diff has numbers but I suspect you will want to find numbers on the axle housing, or on a tag. Drum sizes change between production years, even mid-year. Looks like you have 9" drums. Get a copy of Tony Weale's 7 book.

This was my next guess

Rickenbacker?

Have part numbers and information on the hub kit? I would recommend changing hubs, rather than the entire column. There is a lengthy thread by @Drakman with contributions by @Sloniedocumenting the torturous process. See: Your shaft, if typical, should have these specs: Center nut: 9/16 X 27 TP Shaft: 5/8 x 36 spline same as Lotus 7 and Austin Healy Sprite S1 & 2

Bendix?

See my thread "The Live Axle Thread ". Tell us your lug nut (PCD) spacing. If it's 3.75" you have a long cockpit and a British Leyland Stanpart axle from a Morris Marina or Austin Ital. Or is it the other way around? It's the same crap axle either way... No, it's actually a great axle good for 150 hp. If you need more get a DeDion. Skip Harris "The Marina Man" in Arkansas has what you need for that axle. http://marinaman.org/blog/ If you have 4.25" PCD you have a English Ford Escort. Likely a short cockpit. The TR7 axle will be the 4 speed one and I suspect there are some brake cylinder index differences possibly complicating the connection of the parking brake. The seals and bearings should be the same as Marina/Ital. You most likely need a new MC. Triumph Spitfire 1500. If you want a system that will be able to sit for years, use a DOT 5 silicone system. But the compatibility of DOT5 and the rubber seals used is questionable. Boiling point is lower too. Use caution pulling these hubs, soft metal will warp using the wrong pulling techniques.

Was wide track an option for the late 90s-2k Xflow live axle S3?

While we're at it, will someone explain torque to yield?

I torque my wheels off the ground so vehicle weight on the camber doesn't load one side of the wheel. I do this to my Colorado in which the torque spec is 110 lbs ft. I found if I torque on the ground, the top lugs will have a 20 lb difference from the lower.

It's been 17 months. OP probably got it sorted by now. @mccaskslOP?

How did you find it?

Wrong

OK, apparently understeer is a thing. In a 1200 lb car, it's a common thing. Vary likely accounting for 1/3 of track accidents? Wirh some skill oversteer is recoverable. But with understeer, grip tends to let loose and you're into the wall very suddenly. And not just on the track. I believe with enough effort, it's very achievable on the street, if one gets too carried away. And let's admit it, we are in these cars to get carried away. So we remind ourselves before every drive, "this car will kill me". please. Let's not get carried away.. Or can I adjust my sway bar? Who started this thick sway bar business? Is it not sensible that preventing understeer is partly having weight on that front outside tyre? When the car rolls in a turn, it dips, transferring weight to the outside tyre. If you throttle steer, I believe, you are doing this intentionally, putting weight where it's needed to overcome understeer. So why have a front sway bar that is too heavy? Cat offer a range of sway bar torsions. I believe I have the 1/2" color code red one. I think it's the thickest one. Should I consider going to a lower torsion bar for street?

Add a disclaimer footer to any risky advice. Or a permanent banner or ribbon: "Information here are opinions of the authors for entertainment purposes only and are not intended to be taken as professional automotive advice."Etc. Did we not have a liability waiver agreement to acknowledge when we joined the forum?