IamScotticus

I can send you a grommet. See your mailbox. But the zip ties are probably better. The slot in the pedal box that travel cable is usually for a preload spring, 15lbs or so. BTW... That frame rust is what you get from that pedal box cover collecting condensate. Consider venting it on top.

That's interesting. I would expect the cast links to be more valuable.

Please see the article here and the embedded videos. The short: you can't trust that your personal checks will be respected. The number of immoral people has reached a point where you cannot be trusting anyone with the information on a personal check. https://www.click2houston.com/news/local/2024/08/09/houston-area-postal-worker-accused-of-stealing-cash-and-gift-cards-from-mail/ OK, you may live in Happy Family township and not have these problems. Good for you.

1600 X-flow, 80s uprated AX. 7.5" clutch. I am looking to get a fresh clutch cover, or pressure plate. I understand (it took a long time to learn this) cable operated and hydraulic operated clutch require different clutch covers. Or more specifically, the thrust bearings do. The cable clutch will typically have a flat faced thrust bearing on curly spring fingers or platen topped fingers, and the hydraulic will have a donut faced bearing on flat faced fingers. Mixing these should be avoided, but staying with cable, I have the two options, curly finger or platen. Which is better? Curly Platen Pics from QED and west wales rally spares

1600 X-flow, 80s uprated AX. 7.5" clutch. I am looking to get a fresh clutch cover, or pressure plate. I understand (it took a long time to learn this) cable operated and hydraulic operated clutch require different clutch covers. Or more specifically, the release bearings do. The cable clutch will typically have a flat faced release bearing on curly spring fingers or platen topped fingers, and the hydraulic will have a donut faced bearing on flat faced fingers. Mixing these should be avoided, but staying with cable, I have the two options, curly finger or platen. Which is better? Curly Platen Pics from QED and west walesrally spares

How did I not see that? I'm surprised we don't get boot shots or nose off shots.

Perfect Car. Alternative chassis? A Live Axle without the damper stems poking through the boot cover?

I've had problems contacting Arch due to my emails going to the SPAM folder.

Maybe one of these can get you primed https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/engine-prelubers

I didn't get a notification for a reply at 6:45pm Tuesday.

I think you have #1 https://archmotor.co.uk/ info@archmotor.co.uk

Pair

Whatever a 1971> 1600 OHV Escort would use. Uprated 711 or AX crossflow

I've been running my 7yo lawnmower on Trufuel for the last 4 years. No problems starting and loves it. I'm impressed because I didn't expect an MTD engine to last this long. My plan going forward is to flush my carbs with this fuel if it's going to be idle. Definitely keeping the Trufuel in the generator $25/GAL.

Right. We have that here too, we just call it Ethanol-free. And avoid E-85 all together.

I almost thought you had an Excalibur there

Oxy?

No, but I'll look him up. Everybody I've met from Galveston has an interesting story. Yes, Houston unfortunately. It's not very 7able here.

I have this mount. If somone will lend me the pump, I will stage these on my car and report. Or, I can install the mount with the standard pump and report. I can do this now while the Cat is laid up. Maybe Dez knows @NSXguy

@32eachtime I'm well intended, but very blunt. The screen shot you provided to John cannot possibly answer the question. We are only assuming you have dealt with Caterham Cars. They may be slow to respond, but as for me, they have always gotten me the part. Something may be held up in customs. Who knows. Remember that many UK suppliers won't ship to the USA anymore due to the "I didn't get it" frauds who cancel the payments. Please provide better information on who you dealt with so we can help, or learn something from it.

Buy the mount anyway. It's an improvement. I'm surprised to see it still available. Email Burton on the clearance. They sell the pumps and should know

Failing an adjustment, Bleed with a pressure bleeder. If you have a external slave, try a pressure test by jamming the pedal down with a stick overnight and observe the position of the slave push rod. I suppose the same test can be done with a concentric slave with the rears off the ground and in gear. Try to turn the wheels in an hour. If the wheels turn freely, you don't have a seal problem. If there is resistance, the clutch has closed due to a pressure loss.

Oil pump bolts torque 12-25 lb/ft. Checked two sources. Jake Lamont likes Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator under the pump cover, 7 lb/ft. It may not be something you are wanting to deal with, but pump rotor end clearance is an issue with these pumps. The rotor floats in the housing abd is in contact with the inside surface of the end plate. This is the only seal you have between having pressure or not, and it wears. Checking the clearance is standard procedure for these engines. I will PM you the details.

The "Swinger"? I've been looking for one.

I think the even distribution of torque is more critical than bolt tension/clamp force. Like drive shaft flange bolts, the torque spec isn't high, It's the grade of the bolt that does the work. I read five of my books on the clutch cover installation and didn't find any recommendation for Loctite on the pressure plate bolts, but at 15 lbs-ft, I doubt it would do any harm if not applied in excess. The most consistent advice is to tighten these down evenly In short steps so as to not warp the cover, AND keep the disc centered. There was one reference to the use of spring washers. These would be preferable to Loctite, I think. I will PM you some book shots, I don't want to poke the copyright bear. There is one very good point to remember on clutch discs.. The disc hub may have a high side at the center. According to Haynes Escort Mexico& RS1600, the high side should face toward the flywheel, assuming there is enough relief in the FW center to allow for disc wear. If it were reversed so the high side is toward the transmission, the spring fingers can foul on the hub? Or is it the other way around, the hub will foul on the flywheel? I suppose some measures are required. I'm not an expert on this, just something to be aware of. I'm surprised Haynes is the only book to mention it. A clutch disc supplier mentions orientation direction on a disc installation instruction website, but they are general and the opposite orientation of the Haynes instruction. None of the 1"x23 discs I got from Burton had instructions with them. Going back and reading your problem, you didn't have a problem before the slave change, but Im thinking the disc may have been incorrect beforehand. It just managed to work with the older slave. New parts tend to wear older parts quicker. Perhaps the disc hub was eventually going to bottom out? The new slave made it happen. The face of the hub definitely shows signs of contact. Nothing should be touching that face. Just guessing. You've checked everything else. PM me for a new 7.5" 1x23 road disc and some shaft lube, if I can find it. It hasn't been used for a long time. And what release bearing face do you have, flat, round? You have flat PP spring fingers. They should have a round, or donut, bearing face contacting them.