IamScotticus

Yes I said it. Trafficator. Traffic + Indicator = Trafficator. They are those mechanical flags on the 50's European cars used to indicate your intention to divert your current directional course. They're a hit at auto shows. Although the Seven never got Trafficators, the early 60s cars often got the switches, along with various other Morris & Triumph parts. Indeed, the prince of darkness ruled the world in those days. So why am I bringing these up? Well for one thing, Caterham was still using Morris parts as late as my build, 1996. I'm still trying to find the origins of the hand brake...So why not add another charming Morris part? This led me to investigating why this particular indicator switch was used. I found out it has a built in timer! Vacuum operation and adjustable! Typical English, over engineering things! A red Lamiplate instrument panel is required, of course. So is this self-canceling switch better than the toggle lever switch that we invariably neglect to cancel?

Hello We need to know the PCD, or stud pattern. Distance between holes and other measurements, Width, diameter, etc. Also the offsets may be of interest. Late 70's could be Ford or BL Thanks

Vin, Thats a really nice package there! What can is that? I would love to 234 my 1600 but I would need deeper cut pistons. One thing I would ask is, are hardened valve seats necessary? If I were doing this job, I would not do valve seats and use a lead substitute instead. Have heard seats falling out. Is this something you are considering?

I am also wanting a 4>1 but for std 1.75" as I don't plan on increasing capacity. Ill increase compression b4 I do that. I think the Cat kits are 2"? I have a 2" muffler (no,I don't want to sell it, yet). If my 160 can works out I might. I could get a 4>1 2" kit but I thinks the tune would be all off for 1600. Good for 1700-2000cc. Tell me if Im wrong. 4>1 looks cooler coming out the side, LOL Ground clearing is always an issue and 2" cans are bigger.

I should probably cap the end of that tube... Put rubber caps on the 3nds of the motor mount bolts so passengers won't scrape their knees on them.

Back with an answer. Speed Star in Pasadena https://m.facebook.com/speedstar.htx/ I haven't given them any business yet but they certainly know thier way around Xflows.

Divorce car. Can't accurately value the asset or its disputed. Claim is made to Insurance, award paid and split, Insurance auctions off to COPART. That or it gets parked at the bottom of a lake. Am I half right?

Interested in an "open wheel" event in south Texas That narrows cars down to anything with "clamshell" and cycle fenders, MG Ts, Excaliburs, buggies, VW rails, etc. A fun crazy event excluding the more expensive exotic stuff.

I have found Burton will know which part you need with an email. Try Dave Bean and Pegasus also.

The A Frame handles latteral forces under acceleration and axle wrap, the latter more so in the live axle cars. It is easy one of the most stressed parts of the car. Regular bush service and corrosion prevention is necessary. No A frame, no car. Ive done a Y16 replacement on my A frame. Those suckers are tight!

Yes I have the amazing Ital axle in 3.6 built up by SP Components (Tracsport) for Caterham's budget line of scholarship cars in the mid 90's. These are famous for having the outer berrings welded to abate shaft egress whilst curbing on track. Apparently the curb rumble strips are enough to dislodge the pressed bearings. This of course makes the removal of half shafts an issue which makes upgrading the differential an issue as I can't remove it. In all fairness, I wish to state here that per Steve S. at S&P who did those jobs, it was Caterham's build specification to weld those bearings. Also, none of those shafts were uprated. Steve's advice was to upgrade the crown gear. Rakeway had made a kit for Ital with captured and uprated shafts, and have been hinting more were forthcoming for a few years, but nothing yet. I hope this is useful information to someone, but on to my question: Is it possible to separate the nose, or diff carrier, from the main tube housing enough to drain the oil and any other bits that may be loose in there? I know of one, so I'm asking. And, is it possible to remove the shafts? I haven't seen these welds so I don't know if its a simple grinding job. Thanks Scott

I wonder if it was Hazel's influence that kept the 7 in Lotus production years after Collin was ready to shed it?

Yes, buying a work stand is the easy part. Ive seen several xflow builders on utubes using stands with side mounts. mostly English.

Charlie, that is also in the plan for working on the mains. I was going to do a search to see if those were available commercially or part of a stand kit. Perhaps you have gone down that road already?

I can get you some underneath shots later. I remember that its just clamp the motor to the bracket on the right side with the arm spindles aligned in their scuttle holes. Toggle lever switches do tend to get broken often. One thing I would like some suggestions about is for a substitute for the Caterham supplied washer bottle. Its HUGE! it takes up too much room. I want much smaller. OP, see PM.

Hello, I need to pull my X Flow lump for a seal refresh as Im sure they're from original build in 85. I would like those block shipping side stands for bench work. Im willing to return them on a lend. Not available at Pegasus for a while. Thanks Scott In Houston, Tx.

I see Cat 160 mufflers on clearance at Catetham parts. I estimate the tube size to be very close to the 1.75 XFlow. I took a chance on one as I needed a side exhaust. I haven't received it yet.

@panamericano Get your Birkin from Mr. Brink? I see Texas Motor Works has a different president (owner?)

Thanks guys. My cat is both a replica and an antique. I want to avoid having to go to DOT inspections and emissions. The 5 renewal year interval is nice and mileage will be fairly low. As for the Popo, Im sure I wont have too much trouble. many times a cop will pull over because he's bored and wants to oogle. "License and insurance, please." Yes sir. "Do you know why I pulled you over today" No sir. "Because you're driving a sweet ride I wish I had but wifey would rip my ass up if I bought one of those".

Hello all. I like to piggyback here because there was good conversation on titling/ registering in Tejas. I have 1996 Caterham (1995 Arch chassis) S3 X/Flow in Houston. It was Originally titled and registered as a 1996 "cater" 2dr convertible in Dallas. The safety inspection man was "friendly". I moved to Houston shortly thereafter and the car sat for various reasons. I am now starting to get back into it and the concerns of titling come up again. Since the car is now officially 25 years old, 26 if you go by Arch, shall I attempt a title conversion to an antique? So why did I ever title it as a 1996? At the time, Texas didn't have the title brands of replica and kit car, etc. I have a badge to take care of and can't risk any kind of falsifications. So 7 gurus, what would you suggest I do now? Thanks. PS, looking for X/Flow 4 branch exhaust , 234 cam, Leyland pattern wheels other than Minilites, and any other upgrades.

I really wants this, but my wife would be on me for getting "another piece of junk". Just maybe if Uhaul will make me a truck delivery deal... Out of curiosity, what is the overall length, ball to tail? No jokes, snicker, snicker.... I want to know if it will fit in the garage.

Thanks, looking for something in Texas

Hello, Looking for a small light low trailer for 7 moving. Tow vehicle is rated 6K GVWR