IamScotticus

Loosen all suspension chassis points. Load up the car with full weight, fuel tank, sacks of rice for passengers (return the rice later). Adjust suspension to clear 5" fully loaded, assuming you may have 5" obstacles where you drive, you may not. Re-tighten the suspension mountings at that ride height. Your 7 may look ridiculous at the unlaiden height, but that's the price we pay to avoid damage. European roads are more favourable to lower vehicles.

30 minutes

Nice, I didn't see those. Cat & Loti seat back angle is about 65°, not easy to find fixed seats that angle.

5'9"? Are you too tall or too short for squabs? Assuming too short, asking for myself at 5'7", does moving the pedals back to the second mount hole help any? Failing other options, I would suggest these Cobra Roadster 7 seats https://www.cobraseats.com/seats.html?pid=20&cid=2 400mn=15.74" 750mm= 29.5" 7kg= 15.43 lbs A BDR seat wirh head rest and rails is 22 lbs Perhaps a USA dealer can get them with a bulk shipment from UK. 3 dealers in USA: MA, NC,& CA. If you contact them and they are agreeable, perhaps a group buy can be done? I'm on board. My 30yo BDR seats...but I will have to insist on black piping. Any competent seat/auto/furniture upholstery shop will be able to re-foam, recover or manufacture your squabs. Very simple for them. Re-foaming the cloth seats is more specialized, but, once the support is gone, what can you loose by giving them a try? Well you can loose your seats. Just keep an eye on them.

What can be said about it? Someone went to a lot of trouble getting that 7 really pretty. Grille should not be yellow. I would have to niggle down the price to to recover my cost to fix that. $8 for a can of VHT chassis paint. Oh, VHT chassis paint doesn't come in grey. Oh well.

This is why forums like this are sooo much better than Face Book. FB info is gone in three days. Please become a $$ supporting member to keep it going.

Just tell her it's cheaper than therapy

Thermostats and pressure caps are wear items that fail regularly. You can run an engine with without a thermostat, replacing it with a plate with a hole in the center. I guess a .5" diameter. The warm up will take longer, but you will have a driver while you sort through everything else. Providing the radiator isn't clogged up. Hoses are wear items too. Modern materials are superior to the old EDPM rubber, which will dry out over time. I know I pontificate on this subject, but I do so in that the majority of my automotive failures have been cooling related catastrophes and I've learned everything the expensive way. Not much help on burping, I don't know your specific arrangement. Generally, a well running system without problems should purge itself with aggressive driving. Light throttling doesn't have enough push to flush well. This is a good opportunity to refresh other items if they are over ten years old.

What are the calipers off of?

You tease!

His Yellowness does not have a heater on his car. Can someone put up a pic?

Why? I understand there may be some safety regulations requiring them if someone is stranded in freezing conditions, but a 7? The engine is usually warm enough to keep you toasty. Once the 7 is tagged and on the road, who needs it? Does anyone actually use the heater?

Engine porn!

Exactly. Things like that. Modern OAT coolant has such good anti corrosive additives it can clear rust out of an Iron block.

If your coolant is 5 years old, change it. Think of it like oil or brake fluid, it needs refreshing at intervals too.

No advantages over the coolant reccomend by Ford or Caterham. The issue is the potential for deleterious affects on chemically incompatible non-OEM components throughout the system. Generally, all coolants cool the same, with alternatives like gells, water wetter, etc. being the exception, standard long life coolants differ in how they interact with the components they are in contact with. They work together as a system. When a coolant is recommended by an OEM, there is usually a materials compatability issue. If a coolant of any kind looses its effectiveness its likely something has happened to that coolant to get contaminated and change its properties. This is why a good flush is necessary. These 7s tend to sit for long periods leaving the coolant ample condition to sit and eat away on a rubber seal or gell and cryatalize from a remnant of an invasive element introduced like an additive or previous coolant or some other corrosion. Getting a clean slate baseline to work with from a flush and refill with an OEM approved coolant is your starting point for troubleshooting the other issues. Also, just plan on making your coolant system a regular maintenance item. Coolants, like brake fluid, go bad over time and contamination, not from use.

Drain, check liquid for anomalies, do a boil test on the thermostat in the kitchen, run a flush solution without thermostat (with heater open), drain and run several water flushes (with heater open), reinstall all and fill with a premixed coolant you will stick with and never mix with anything else. Test or eplace the expansion tank cap.

anything new?

https://www.motoringresearch.com/slideshow/take-a-look-at-james-mays-frankenstein-caterham/

You don't see the rope pulling it through the water

I don't download. Could you screenshot the relevant info?

https://www.burtonpower.com/std-clutch-plate-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-190mm-1-x23-c784af.html

I will try to be more helpful I measured the nose lower skirt on an original Lotus S2/3 and from a reproduction made by DSK, from the period. They were both very close. LOTUS DSK

Then that bottom edge should have reached the frame. They cut it short. I would ask for another, with corrections. Or take the opportunity to fab a hinge Piano hinge

Do the headlamp brackets align under the openings?