IamScotticus

Lucky you. There is plenty of parts support and an LSD to drop in. I would think the Cortina and Escort forums will have plenty of help. The diff has numbers but I suspect you will want to find numbers on the axle housing, or on a tag. Drum sizes change between production years, even mid-year. Looks like you have 9" drums. Get a copy of Tony Weale's 7 book.

This was my next guess

Rickenbacker?

Have part numbers and information on the hub kit? I would recommend changing hubs, rather than the entire column. There is a lengthy thread by @Drakman with contributions by @Sloniedocumenting the torturous process. See: Your shaft, if typical, should have these specs: Center nut: 9/16 X 27 TP Shaft: 5/8 x 36 spline same as Lotus 7 and Austin Healy Sprite S1 & 2

Bendix?

See my thread "The Live Axle Thread ". Tell us your lug nut (PCD) spacing. If it's 3.75" you have a long cockpit and a British Leyland Stanpart axle from a Morris Marina or Austin Ital. Or is it the other way around? It's the same crap axle either way... No, it's actually a great axle good for 150 hp. If you need more get a DeDion. Skip Harris "The Marina Man" in Arkansas has what you need for that axle. http://marinaman.org/blog/ If you have 4.25" PCD you have a English Ford Escort. Likely a short cockpit. The TR7 axle will be the 4 speed one and I suspect there are some brake cylinder index differences possibly complicating the connection of the parking brake. The seals and bearings should be the same as Marina/Ital. You most likely need a new MC. Triumph Spitfire 1500. If you want a system that will be able to sit for years, use a DOT 5 silicone system. But the compatibility of DOT5 and the rubber seals used is questionable. Boiling point is lower too. Use caution pulling these hubs, soft metal will warp using the wrong pulling techniques.

Was wide track an option for the late 90s-2k Xflow live axle S3?

While we're at it, will someone explain torque to yield?

I torque my wheels off the ground so vehicle weight on the camber doesn't load one side of the wheel. I do this to my Colorado in which the torque spec is 110 lbs ft. I found if I torque on the ground, the top lugs will have a 20 lb difference from the lower.

It's been 17 months. OP probably got it sorted by now. @mccaskslOP?

How did you find it?

Wrong

OK, apparently understeer is a thing. In a 1200 lb car, it's a common thing. Vary likely accounting for 1/3 of track accidents? Wirh some skill oversteer is recoverable. But with understeer, grip tends to let loose and you're into the wall very suddenly. And not just on the track. I believe with enough effort, it's very achievable on the street, if one gets too carried away. And let's admit it, we are in these cars to get carried away. So we remind ourselves before every drive, "this car will kill me". please. Let's not get carried away.. Or can I adjust my sway bar? Who started this thick sway bar business? Is it not sensible that preventing understeer is partly having weight on that front outside tyre? When the car rolls in a turn, it dips, transferring weight to the outside tyre. If you throttle steer, I believe, you are doing this intentionally, putting weight where it's needed to overcome understeer. So why have a front sway bar that is too heavy? Cat offer a range of sway bar torsions. I believe I have the 1/2" color code red one. I think it's the thickest one. Should I consider going to a lower torsion bar for street?

Add a disclaimer footer to any risky advice. Or a permanent banner or ribbon: "Information here are opinions of the authors for entertainment purposes only and are not intended to be taken as professional automotive advice."Etc. Did we not have a liability waiver agreement to acknowledge when we joined the forum?

Link!

@EdWills Will, I don't know about Craftsman now. I'm not keeping up. Generally, tool steel quality is pretty good across the brands. Not a professional so not much point in me having any particular loyalty. I do grab up older tools when I find them. 5/8" from 1925 is still 5/8" today. . Please PM me on that 1600 tool supply. Don't want to hijack this thread.

When you put the weight of that engine on the chassis, it will drop the height. Do you have clearance for the front suspension and hoist legs? Like I said, the chassis needs to be about 15" high so 1, the transmission angle will clear an 2, so you can get underneath and do everything you need to. Trying to do this with the car on the floor is trouble. Sorry if I come across rude, sorrry, I just care, a lot. An accident will ruin a lot of the fun. I know. Oh, while I'm being so charming, here's another criticism, that blue painter's tape isn't enough to protect the chassis. A gentle bump has enough weight behind it to cut through that. Get some 1" or larger plastic wire conduit to slide over. It's something you will use again next time youre wrenching.

I've been wanting a 1/2" drive torque wrench for the rear axle hub nut. I would need one so infrequently I am considering using a clicker type rental from a local auto parts store at a reasonable price, if not free (refund on return loan program). However, for a much lower cost, I can own a pointer type. I assume I can be accurate within +/- 3 lbs ft. Is this an acceptable margin for rear axle hub nut?

The Craftsman line is sold in Lowe's Hardware here. https://www.lowes.com/pl/tools/craftsman/4294936478-3252463372 This is the closest store to you https://www.lowes.com/pl/tools/craftsman/4294936478-3252463372

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For this price, I'd buy it to put a X-flow in it.

@Slonie thanks, your 7 shiloette was my favorite and thanks @Crocfor the serif 7. It's an appropriate subtle homage to Caterham.

Yes. But those cars may constitue a mere .01% of all available vehicles. Raise that a little with the '85 RX7. I could give a list of all the 3.75 cars for N America and UK matkets.. Add the Arial Atom too.