IamScotticus

Second the snow plow.

Does anybody have the articles on 7 frame restoration by Mr. EGAN in Road & Track Nov 88 to Sep 91?

@JohnCh which Protex latches did you use?

I really wanted to go straight to installing a dry sump during the engine refresh. Then I realized it's better to first make sure the head gasket will hold. That's OK, one less project to get between me and the road. I can put in a DS with engine in car. Just need to prefit the pan to deal with any interference issues like the BH blanking plate.

Hearing loss? Better than tinnitus! I get to enjoy the constant hissing of steam escaping somewhere inside my head. Yes, you youngsters, its a real thing.

Thanks Charie. Already did it. He got back and pointed me to these new castings at Webcon https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/17057-crossflow-1-x-dgvdgasdcd/

Looking to get one of these Need the correct manifold that has those mounting bosses too. All offers are welcome although this kit is sweet: https://www.ikengineering.co.uk/product-page/weber-32-36-38dgas-linkage-kit

You're jumping into a Seven. Nothing unusual going in here.. No, don't wear a helmet. People might think you're crazy 🤪

Back to MIChina. They will copy something exactly but for one small detail. I will have to get a genuine Girling or TRW unit to know if tanks will swap. Just snagged a TRW GMC226 off David Manners Group

Thanks, MV, this is a lot of help. The list of Spit parts on the classic Seven just keeps going up. Which is a wonderful thing because of the long running support for those cars. Now to find these in new condition.

Found this gem. Thanks to everyone on the thread. https://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=18950

@BrianEBrian, Regarding the Amazon MC (please put up a link to or clip of the item) could you tell if the CAT MC reservoir would transfer onto that unit? That would kinda tell me if my CAT MC tank would go onto a Spitfire MC. I would get a new OEM Spit stepped MC and switch the tank over. Also, if you don't mind, since I don't have a tag on my MC, I found the casting numbers on the bottom to be"74660152 Q42". Could you try to read your casting #s to see if they are similar? Our MCs shouldn't be too far apart, one or three years. A pic of your CAT MC would be cool too. Another interesting thing, looking at MCs on Spitbits, there is a note about the TRW Lucas MC to only use UK spec brake fluid like Castrol.

You could be right. I don't see Girling making a MC "kit car" specific. Race, yes, but very low production doesn't please the bean counters.

I sent a question to the ebay seller of the Morgan types and learned its a stepped cylinder. Hello I have this MC on my 95 Caterham made by Girling. I can't determine what cars this is original equipment on. Do you know? Thanks, SCOTT New message from: emeraldvalleyclassicmini The ones we sell for the Morgan were also used on some Caterham and a few other very low volume cars because it is a step bore and does a bias internally without the need for a separate bias valve and extra brake pipes. Its not used onfferent than these. I think the most common application for these is the Morgan which is low production but still almost common compared to some things.

I think the last of those are supporting the VW and buggy builders. IF Formula Vee were a thing around here, I'd be very tempted.

They are small https://youtu.be/L4MpBPXojF4?si=6hJgcnexYJL_IDZ3

My house configuration doesn't allow for a discreet installation. Garage in front and the entire length is open to view from ths street. There isn't a way to hide the condenser duct from view. I considered a swamp cooler but learned those put out a lot of humidity, which isn't something I want more of. Other option is a window type unit or portable with the exhaust ducted out. I need a 115V circuit run for that. Pannel and outlets upgrade is another project for later this year.

So, as I get closer to the plucking of the lump, My two goals are to clean out all the congealed coolant residues from the cooling jacket and run something through the oil galley, brushes & what not, with an oil friendly solvent of sorts. No, this is not taking it to an engine shop for a washing, hot tanking or any of that. I think I can do a decent clean-out job in a largish parts cleaner of my own. Therefore, no, I wont get back some shiny pristine thing ready to paint. Thats not the goal. A clean-out with minimum to no damage is the goal. An engine doesn't need to be purdy to run well, it just needs to be cleaned correctly in the right places. I will save purdy for later. Which brings me to surface prep and cleaning in critical areas. After cylinder deck and head surfaces are cleaned well, they are checked for straightness, but to get there, what are the best and least destructive surface cleaning methods to use? I got razor blades; they work pretty good. Ive done amazing work with WD-40 and green ScotchBrite on intake surfaces. What else is popular? If I find that my deck and head surfaces are all wonky, of course I'll take them to a shop for millwork. But not until then. Its not because Im cheap. OK, Im cheap. But life has taught me this... If you hire a landscaper to cut down some trees, and you tell him not to cut the trees with the yellow ribbons, 9 times out of ten he will do the exact opposite and cut the trees with the ribbons. I've learned this lesson enough times, to do what you can yourself. To be perfectly honest, in the land clearing business, the SOP is to only mark the trees to be cut. Its just an example I can think of (Walt Disney) how things can go wrong, and still do, in recent memory.

Welcome to the forum! Don't be a stranger.

A BDR with 5 spd. Good for $20k. PO probably had more than that In it. Possibly pushing the limits of that live axle.

I stole it from a bloke on the Westfield forum

I think I read on a MOG forum that the 4/4 MC is a reproduction of the Giirling. Hence its black coating.

Well, as for rebuilding brakes, it's like carbs. You can spend, or invest, your time and energy doing the work going through the learning, or just buy the NOS or rebuilds and go straight to bolting on. If anything, learn to build lines and pressure bleed. You won't save $ on the rebuilding of the components, but on the assembly and bleeding labor, and eliminating many errors. Not the same equation for the guy who is servicing customers cars. If he has the skills and tools to gain a little more profit margin by rebuilding, he should.

Did anyone find out what the Girling 74660152 was OEM on?