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IamScotticus

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Everything posted by IamScotticus

  1. Do you have that remote shifter contraption?
  2. will put up a puc later, but the car is lifted under the cross brace. I put the stand just behind it. It might be moved later or as needed for access to work around.
  3. I don't know what stock springs are...
  4. Yes, just fun blatting, nothing serious. I will require a softer ride for the roads here.
  5. If it hasn't been said already, That was a wonderful article on this project in Low Flying a few months ago.
  6. There are soooo many discussions on springs... Its just easier to ask again than to sort through it all. What springs are we running on the basic SPAX G303 Front and G305 rear non-height adjustable spring perch on a standard S3 Caterham Live axle (Ital) that will not be raced? I have old G305s on the rear now with blue springs that I can't ID yet, possibly Hyperco, but I will be looking for springs in a different color. Bilstein yellow would be nice. Where do these spring numbers get stamped? Thanx
  7. I think I see the sale items in the For Sale link in the menu link
  8. Can anyone say if the rear clam wing supports used by Lotus and early Cat improve wing stability at speed? They are still available at Cat parts.
  9. I suppose I shouldn't show and not tell... https://allstarperformance.com/chassis-dollies-all10625/
  10. Yes, that jack has the height to lift to the top tier of the stands without spacers. But I do use a block of 2×4 under the diff and a 2ft length of 2x4 under the front chassis for lifting. I had the 4x4 block handy if I needed it but I didn't. It looks tall, but its a small car. The car is only 17 inches up, floor to chassis. As for step lifting, I already had been on wheel dollies so the angles were not too extreme. If not, then yes, I would be lifting the front and back in steps. Probably just two steps. Another note, as these stand bars are only 30" long, and the verticles are spaced 23", I wasn't comfortable with that on the rear where the chassis is 39". I cut the rear stand in half and extended it 13". 1.25x36" square tube from Home Depot is a perfect fit inside.
  11. aww, just let them fray. i think its better to leave them loose.
  12. see this https://www.cobraseats.com/seats.html?pid=20&cid=2
  13. Hi Robert. We need to know the lug bolt spacing (PCD).
  14. is there a price for the parts kit for DIY,
  15. Sweet. since you're good at making stuff, I want that rocker cover!
  16. there's mesh hose covers to slip over rubber hoses. most of my vehicles have had them on coolant hoses from factory. i would use it on everything. Hoses need some movement to flex with thermal expansion, vibration , engine movement and shrinkage. Secure what you need but don't bind up too tight.
  17. i noted the same on Yoram's car. optical illusions. the tie rods give it away.
  18. Big improvements here finally! Beater is up in the air, officially on the operating table.
  19. Side mount? Easy? Sacrilege!
  20. I remember being more sideways and higer... Im stuck in the 90s. could someone put up a pic of those please?
  21. Yep. not happy with Dzuz down there and very fidfly to align. I will be considering altetrnative solutions going forward. Velcro? Rubber bands? Duct tape!
  22. I will suffer the embarrassment for your benefit. Here is what happens after years of neglect and why Im recommending stainless here. Also, although your Dzuz are reversed in order, the captive concept is the same. Your screw should not have fallen out unless there was a constant pushing force on it for a long time. If they had released from the S springs or were never fastened to begin with, its possible they could have been worked through the holes. The winged screws are my addition. I drilled out the old rusty flush ones and riveted these in. Its really easy. You're working on fiberglass so make sure the rivits are light duty aluminum. You gotta know how to rivit if you own a seven.
  23. When you know what you need replace everything with stainless steel, if it isn't already stainless.
  24. Well I already learned noob lesson #1, when replacing a corroded emulsion tube from an internet vendor and paying the $7 in shipping, always get a matching pair, not just one. The new one won't be cut the same as the 50 year old tube its replacing of the same number. $$$
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