IamScotticus

"Pinto" Engine is common name. https://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-fitment-type/parts-by-engine-ford/ford-sohc-pinto.html https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00149 https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=ENGINE https://racerwalsh.com/

@7Westfield Thanks for the illustrations. I Will be dry supming my engine and that front port is a very desirable place to port into. I have a 4 port pump to do that with. Looking at it, that front port is behind the pully belt. I don't know how to work around that. I looked ay many FFs DS and, suprisingly, all I've seen are using the 5 port. With that being the common pump (that I've seen) I suppose the 5 port is adequate for 99% road use, with an occasional spirited showing off. So I have a 5 port too. If I feel the need to port the front, I can when I know how to route the line. Everyone: sorry not selling either pump at this time.

Well, the head wasn't plugged. Maybe its my other head. But I did find plenty of gunk in the port. A full cleaning the block and head will get.

Is that a staked ball? Please expound.

I'm considering sending off the head to a specialist for valve guides and seats. Someone had plugged the side coolant to intake manifold port. I want to start using that with a surge tank. I want that unplugged.

For my engine refresh I an considering various levels of disassembly for cleaning an engine that isn't particularly dirty, actually very clean, but has sat for 10 years with oil and coolant. Coolant part of the time as I drained it at some point. The water pump was gummed up. I did keep the cylinders oiled and turning. I am considering doing anything from a professional cabinet clean to a back yard trash can hot tank to a light bench top oil and galley and cooling jacket scrubbing. None of my decisions will be based on cost, bur attention to detail and the experience and satisfaction of doing something well. I am learning that for many engines, some more so, that removal of the cam bearings is necessary to ensure clean out of that oil circuit under it. I hope to not have to do this on the Sourh American AX. Other than removing and pressing seals and freeze plugs, I'm not confident I can drive /press those bearings properly. Any opinions on being able to clean that circuit wirh bearings in place?

It's to protect them from getting scratched. Yes, sweat shirt sleeves work well.

I have a suggestion.. Your lamps might get cold 🥶

I want to see the OH SH1T! knob on the other end If you ran a solid rod attached to the cowl and tied the string to it, it could be a collision cut-off too.

Is it not just a simple matter of replacing the bearings and races?

Heck, they have wing piping!

If you can make that, You can skin an entire 7.

Another https://mogparts.net/ Also keep in mind Morgan ran the Xflow a long time.

Related to wiper blades, I have read, and and it's true for me now, the arms can become stuck to the Sspindles through a galvanic corrosion. I am now needing advice on how to remove these. Drill the tops and soak? I don't mind a destructive measure, as they are probably done anyways. It's the fact they are hanging on thin sheet metal that prevents me from prying them off from the under side. So, Vin, and everyone, when you get yours on, you are advised.

In Low Flying June Ed, an article by Gavin Hobbs is stating that uprated wiper blades used on Morgan's will press onto the same arms Cat uses. Got them from Krazy Horse. 10mm x 220mm. Longer blades are available. https://krazyhorse.co.uk/pages/parts-and-accessories I couldn't find a link to the blades on thier site, but they support Caterham as well. They should be able to get you sorted.

I don't see where else the side marker/turn signals will go.

For 7 purposes, most HB levers were bent at an angle. This was a modification, no OEM part is bent like this. I wouldn't decide on looks alone, see if it can bolt up to the bung in the frame. It might be there because it could be made to work.

@rider Will you build the car or have it assembled?

there are brake line locks that can act as a parking brake The covered aluminum is a product called Lamiplate. I looked at the current equivalent offerings and they are not produced in small pieces. I think an adhesive backed vinyl is the way now.

Nope

I sure wish my extension were that length

If I can fit it, l want to add a radiant pannel to the front of the pedal box, with an air gap in between to act as a radiant heat barrier. I have other bright ideas like paneling the bottom of the tunnel and having fan fins attached to the driveshaft to move air forward. Bright ideas I haven't flushed out yet. This might introduce a lot of dirt and dust. Perhaps just boxing and blanking off the tunnel is better.

Who's the OP? IMO , SLNGSHT is too close to Slingshot which is its own similar creature, but not a 7. It's perfect for a Slingshot.

when I'm ready to drive again, I will just keep a "shower cap"